How not to use a clamp

Hi TUG. My comments were not directed at you either. My problem is that the OP posted a picture with no context to it whatsover. At least the post has given us something to occupy ourselves with whist sitting on our bums.

NDIY. " Following the thread, I was almost thinking old iron had another nom de plume....🙂" Not guilty mlud.

regards

Enough already. Others apparently have bombs in their workshops to worry about.

Roger - Old Iron

I agree - a tad misleading indeed but the discussions has brought out views - that HAS to be better than 'Covid statistics' for instance in at least its relevant to 'what we do'.

I agree with Rod - enough. My workshop is safe from bombs however so that's where I'm off too - ha! there's a casting that needs clamping to the table - yes, I assure you, there really is .

As 'they' say All's well that ends well, just keep on smiling and bimble on

Tug

I know🙂🙂🙂 .... Is he your brother in law?🙂🙂🙂

I noted the milling table end was a different colour in your album, so guessed it was less likely.

I, personally, would not put up a machining video for the very reasons I stated - my workshop is not the tidiest, nor best organised and my machining skills and practices are safe for me but not necessarily a good example for beginners.

Also, while I can learn from both the good and bad videos (so my methods are always improving), I am not, and never will be, a ‘proper’ machinist - I’m just a hobbyist with far more retirement interests than just metalwork.

As I pointed out in my previous post, the first thing that I noted was how difficult the job was made.🙂 I always try to adopt the KISS Principle (but I still manage to do things in the wrong order, after 25 years of owning a lathe).

Lets just agree that we have slightly different expectations of youtube video quality.

NDIY

Well poor Ade reckoned he was not too bothered about the comments , but i think he was. Then went on to show various other ways it could have been done.

Personally i do not always watch youtube for a degree in being a rocket scientist. It is just a better bit of entertainment for me than watching Corry etc.

Steve.

It is just a better bit of entertainment for me than watching Corry etc.

Ha ha! We got rid of the goggle box over ten years ago. Not missed it.

I did not mean i ever watched Corry,,,, honest.

Steve.

NDIY. I know🙂🙂🙂 .... Is he your brother in law?🙂🙂🙂

No I do not know ADE personally. But I am of Welsh descent several generations back. I have watched a few of his video's during the lockdown.

regards

Having read this thread through, I am just wondering what comments I might get regarding issues I might experience, if any, whilst machining the Sole Plate for a Stuart10v on the fixture plate I have just made.

I have just finished making this fixture plate to be able to hold smaller more awkward bits in my large vice.

I am only intending to take off a couple of thou or so to square up (level) the various mounting points. I am intending to run a face-mill lightly over the surface to do this. The previous owned had filed them but not very square. The sole plate is held down by metal bracket which has the bar (located in the bearing recesses) welded to it.

The biggest problem I have with the engine is that he had machined the bearing bores so badly that it needed a 24thou shim under both sides of one of the bearing block to free the crank up. When I got it it only spun the crank if the bearing hold down bolts were loose. The recesses for the bearings are level with one another.

Colin

I must admit I would put a block below the stepped-block so all the teeth are engaged, but as I have not seen the video (YouTube demands an "account" now), I accept the defences put up for what had actually been done after the operation in the still.

What I'd not considered, since it is flat steel on flat cast-iron, is padding between table and block. I do though, ensure no swarf trapped in the joint as that would indeed damage one or both faces.

Colin -

My comment is that what you have there is a good way to approach the task, and I like the fixture-plate, but be careful not to indent the journal surfaces with the bar. It shouldn't do, but it is a point I'd consider.

What I'd do though, is put larger counter-bored holes appropriately in the fixture-plate to give the option of securing it directly to the mill table. (I assume that cap-screw holds a tenon for gripping in the vice?)

It's often worth when making jigs and fixtures considering such options to increase their capabilities from the start, but without going so far you spend more time and material making the jigs than making the bits the jigs are for making....

Nigel,

The plate is dowelled to the tenon in the vice. As it was all machined whilst assembled I am loathe to split it. I think if I need another small one I will make one. I intend making a much smaller pone for the Cowells mill.

I have in fact just recently made a very large fixture plate for the mill. It is dual purpose, in that it is used to hold the big indexer (200mm chuck) which is too wide for the table slots. It has rows of 10mm tapped holes and 8mm reamed holes for dowel pins. The indexer is around 85Kg's and the fixture plate is at least another 6kg if not more. Luckily the large piece of tooling plate came FOC, otherwise it would have cost me over £100.

Colin