Another Engine Build

Well done Bob your flywheel looks good, its something I have thought about making on the R/T but havnt tried as yet.

Yes the caliper gauge works a treat, since fitting it I have seen quite a few ways people have fitted and used one on the lathe. Most of the ones I have seen have been mounted tailstock side of the carriage but I went for the head side, mainly because I thought it easier to watch both the cut and the readout, it did mean making a swarf guard but that is pretty simple.

Looking at your flywheel your table is obviously working well so I guess you are happy with it.

Ron

I found it's easy to make a mistake especially if you get distracted I don't have the confidence to slot drill from the start, I centre drilled a small mark on a complete 360 deg to check that all lines up. My r/t has a tight spot for a1/3rd of a turn so I going to have a look to see if this can be adjusted.

Bob

Nicely coming along Bob. Wouldn't worry about mistakes either; if any one tells you they have never made mistakes then they're either a magician or are good with terminological inexactitudes.

George.

I'm not taking over Ron`s thread here but noticed mechman`s Gerry`s beam engine on the photos, looks great hope mine comes out as well. That's me finished on this.

Bob

Well back on the ranch, I honed the cylinder this morning and made the piston and rod. I fitted the O ring, a drop of oil and it seems to be a nice fit, should run OK.

Looks good Ron,

I like the way you have fitted the piston, never seen that before.

Assume you threaded the end of the rod and through the piston and the nut is a lock nut.

I just threaded mine tightened it but it still came loose!!!!!

Your method noted for future engine

Geoff

........and them o rings are great, good compression.

Tricky to fit but worth the effort

Geoff

Hi Geoff, not my idea re fitting the piston to the rod it's as per Jason's drawings and build notes, seems a good idea to me though.

Ron

So good to have the lathe back up and running so made a start on the conrod, going with brass.

Jason could I get away with cast iron for the eccentric strap, I don't have any brass large enough. I understand C/I is a good bearing material so wondered if it would work OK in this application..? if not I can get some brass in.

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 11/07/2020 08:50:26

That will work OK, I've done several larger engines with them in CI

Conrod finished, well apart from a clean and polish. It maybe small but surprising how much work there is, all went ok apart from turning the waste on the bearing. My mistake so had to increase the width to salvage it but I think it looks ok.

Eccentric and eccentric band next.

Morning Jason, going with C/I for the strap do you think 2.0 mm wall thickness will be ok or should I increase it to 3.00 mm. It was just a thought but if there is no need then that's fine.

Ron

2mm will be OK in operation, it's not something you want to hold too tightly in a vice or lathe chuck though so you may want to go up a but in thickness..

Thanks Jason, I am taking out of a piece of 1.75 inch square bar as I don't have any round large enough. Thought of putting a hole in for the boring head and centering it in the chuck on the RT. Then machining the outer rad and the flats then change over to clamping it on the flats and bore to the 20mm using the eccentric as a plug gauge. If I hold it via the flats I can probably stick with a 2.0 mm wall.

Finished the eccentric though I may make it again, its not quite to the drawing and to be honest I found it a bit tricky to make, probably my inexperience. The good thing is its spot on dimension wise and a nice finish on the running face it just looks a tad different.

Eccentric strap in cast iron it's the best I can do with it.

The wall thickness is tad heavier than the drawing and I have left all 3 lugs at 6mm, pleased with the fit to the eccentric, should run well.

That should do the job.

Can't remember now but did you use a larger dia crankshaft as the boss for the eccentric looks thinner than mine?

Hi Jason, yes I had 10mm ground bar at the time and used that, probably a bad choice and should have turned it down to 8mm.

As for the thin walled boss, Shhh... your not supposed to notice things like that, all I can say is ​​​​​​. Anyway I have just sleeved it to 14mm which looks a bit better.

Bearing pedestals done just need a debur and a clean up.