making new lathe spindle

Graeme,

0000 wool on the critical registering surfaces will be safe. The goal is to only remove the oxidation. Handles, fitments, and other non-critical surfaces can polished with a bit more aggressive sandpaper grits in succession (600->1000->1500) before final polishing assuming they are not chromed...as none appear to be.

Another approach that I have used that looks nice on vintage machinery of this era is to strip off the remaining paint with safe chemical strippers, rinse and dry, and then apply/buff stove black polish to the cast iron surfaces that would have been originally painted. It gives the cast iron a warm, uniform darker color to contrast with the machined surfaces. It is not as rust-resistant as paint of course, but any future oxidation can be removed with steel wool and another dab of stove black applied and polished.

https://www.lehmans.com/p-2830-stove-black-and-polish.aspx

Hans

My drill, was in a right state when i got it. i wasnt too fussed about the finish on this one, and yo cant see the gears anyway.

Graeme,

That is a beautiful vintage bench drill. Love the cast spindle cover. Living in the Colonies, I am not familiar with that manufacturer.

Hans

Its a Kerry. Backgeared, rotating and tilting table means you can get any part of the table surface under the drill.

Graeme

Newish to the forum I see - I do like your Avtar! You will see from mine that I also use a pic of my best mate! 

Cheers

Norman

Edited By NJH on 25/02/2015 15:59:17

Graeme, Those brown handles may well be bone - a knowledgeable Drummond collector told me and on my 1908 the leadscrew one was.

Would it be practical to turn a soft lap, (long enough to fit through both bearings) to the required diameter and use this to clean up the scratches in the bore?

* Danny M *

This is how they did Drummond headstocks and leadscrews in 1945 at the Myford works

You need a big high quality dedicated machine for consistency

Edited By Ady1 on 26/02/2015 11:15:47

Don't wish to be a misery, but aren't you in danger of chucking good money away trying to achieve perfection and accuracy you will never get with an old Drummond. Accuracy and perfection most models don't need and if you do need it - flog the Drummond and go buy a better lathe. The objective is to stop the most serious slop, after that skill will deliver reasonable accuracy.

If it were mine I would make/find a spindle size mandrel and use that to Loctite a sleeve of brass shim inside the bore - add a little extra shim where the bore is most worn if you like. Try until tightish then oil the mandrel, add Loctite in the bore and tighten cautiously. I found with old cast iron it was impossible to degrease completely so a wipe with solvent/rag is the best you can do.

Well done, an extra £60 seems good - and with horn handles too! I agree not a bad deal, enjoy your lathe. BTW, I bought an oldish ML10 - it had some nice tooling and a ropey leadscrew - but I have a cunning plan....

Graeme,

Once the shaft is brought back to size, it should serve you well within its size limitations. It will likely present a challenge whilst parting, but even George Thomas discussed his difficulties parting with the Drummond.

And if it were on my side of the Pond, I would scoop it up in a heart-beat for what you will have in it, particularly because you have many of the original accessories. I am glad that someone is bringing her back to life.

Hans

The ML10 replaced a very old Selig Sonneheim I'd had for 20+ years, the ML10 is very good but on the small side and no gap in the bed but suits my odd jobs. The leadscrew is worn in the usual place. Two cunning plans, one to buy a used ML7 screw and adapt it and the other is to cut a new leadscrew using the good end of the original. A purist would cut a leadscrew in one go, but I have cut screws in two goes, tricky but do-able. But as I am old, it still does the job and I don't need to screwcut all that often it may never get done....

Graeme

"Im sure I read ml10 were a cheaper alternative to ml7 and yet they seem to be worth more money now. Why's that? "

The reason is that the ML7 is an " old" machine since superseded by the ML7R and the Super 7. The ML10 was introduced as a cheaper, more basic, machine alongside these models and this is why is commands a higher price compared to the older ML7. (Plenty of folk are still using the old ML7s.)

I started with an ML4 and then went on to an ML10 - quite a good lathe but lacking in some of the refinements of its larger brothers. I've since moved on to a Super 7 and I guess that will see me out!

Have a look HERE for the differences.

Regards

Norman

Edited By NJH on 26/02/2015 18:54:47

Just a word of warning about the ML10

I was seriously considering buying one, but then found this page, with some totally unexpected advice.

Quote: "Note: It is not possible to do a full bed and saddle regrind on an ML10, Speed10, or Diamond 10 Lathe. At best the top of the bed can have 0.005in. (0.127mm) removed, a once only operation, so your visual inspection is crucial."

MichaelG.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 26/02/2015 21:09:42