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Mini Lathe Rear Tool Post

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JasonB27/01/2019 17:17:22
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I'd shim it up much like I would a casting.

Ron Laden28/01/2019 16:57:01
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Well I was not expecting this, today I received my first ever piece of cast iron from M-machine and its way better than I was imagining it would be. I dont know what type of machine they used to cut it but its nigh on flat, I can get a 3 thou gauge under the rule at one end and a 4 thou on the opposite side and thats over 7 inches.

I dont know if this is the norm for cast iron but I was expecting it to be rough cut and no where near flat, really impressed with it.

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Edited By Ron Laden on 28/01/2019 16:57:31

John Rudd28/01/2019 19:30:34
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Ron, most likely been saw cut...they have a 'very extensive arsenal' when it comes to machinery....Their service and staff are unequalled in my book...The guys there were involved in the Tornado loco project....they do a lot of machine work for other local companies...,well worth a visit to their premises..

Ron Laden29/01/2019 08:37:16
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Can anyone point me to low profile table clamps, I have been searching all the usual sites but not found any. The type I was looking for are the round ones with a cap head fixing, I think they work on a cam. I have seen pictures of them but if they are not readily available I will have to make something up.

Ron

JasonB29/01/2019 08:43:05
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MSC Direct will have them at a price.

Ron Laden29/01/2019 09:02:05
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Posted by JasonB on 29/01/2019 08:43:05:

MSC Direct will have them at a price.

Thanks Jason, but seeing the price I think its time for a bit more tool making.

Ron

Journeyman29/01/2019 09:08:44
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Ron, Harold Hall has an article on his ***Website***  or ***Website*** about making several different types of low profile clamps for the mill. Or similar on *** Mikes Workshop *** or on ***HMEM*** for the eccentric ones.

John

Edit: Add link

Edited By Journeyman on 29/01/2019 09:24:17

Ron Laden29/01/2019 09:22:39
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Posted by Journeyman on 29/01/2019 09:08:44:

Ron, Harold Hall has an article on his ***Website*** or ***Website*** about making several different types of low profile clamps for the mill. Or similar on *** Mikes Workshop ***

John

Edit: Add link

Edited By Journeyman on 29/01/2019 09:19:31

Thanks John for the links, thats useful, a couple of the simple ones will do, I just need to hold the cast iron piece for facing.

Ron

 

Edited By Ron Laden on 29/01/2019 09:25:45

Ron Laden30/01/2019 17:06:14
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Made up a low(ish) clamp bar for holding the cast iron lump whilst I flycut it. I dont have any square or rectangular bar so I had to make do with round which meant milling some flats. Its a pity the rear T slot is underneath the work as I could have done something similar there or at least a bolt down stop bar. I will have to find something that extends out from the ends of the work and clamp it from the rear slot.

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ega30/01/2019 17:39:46
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Have you considered whether a hole or other necessary feature of the design could be used for clamping?

I take it that the four cap screws are inclined downwards slightly? You could also drill dimples to receive the ends of the screws placed so as to pull the work down.

Lots of scope for end stops here.

Martin Connelly30/01/2019 18:05:36
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That lump is not going to be lifted by a fly cutter so it only needs to be restrained to stop lateral movements. For ideas on low clamping look at Wixriyd and WDS web sites.

Martin C

JasonB30/01/2019 18:27:38
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Looks like you have plenty of room to clamp from either end to me.

Ron Laden31/01/2019 09:52:32
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Posted by JasonB on 30/01/2019 18:27:38:

Looks like you have plenty of room to clamp from either end to me.

Why I thought it needed clamping along its length I dont know, anyway the clamping bar made a pair and now end clamped. They seem to work as I cant shift it so should hold ok.

Jason its a HSS cutter and 95mm diameter would you think I would be ok with 150-200 rpm, I can run slower but ideally would like to get the mill up into its power band a bit more.

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JasonB31/01/2019 10:05:20
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About 200 would be OK. Personally I would bring the cutter back into the body quite a bit more and swing say 50mm dia and then run around 350rpm.

You will be able to feed faster so it won't take any longer than two slow passes with the larger swing.

Ron Laden31/01/2019 10:09:56
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Posted by JasonB on 31/01/2019 10:05:20:

About 200 would be OK. Personally I would bring the cutter back into the body quite a bit more and swing say 50mm dia and then run around 350rpm.

You will be able to feed faster so it won't take any longer than two slow passes with the larger swing.

Thanks Jason will give that a try.

Ron

not done it yet31/01/2019 11:20:50
7517 forum posts
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If the block is resting on its middle rather than the ends, I would be checking if it would sit better inverted. It is a standard procedure, with planing timber, that the ends touch the table, not the middle? Different, cutting from the bottom and not the top, but one does have two fixed starting points on the first side?

ega31/01/2019 11:26:09
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Posted by not done it yet on 31/01/2019 11:20:50:

It is a standard procedure, with planing timber, that the ends touch the table, not the middle?

I may have misunderstood you but I think that what you are suggesting is incorrect.

Timber overhanded as suggested will result in the front of the workpiece dropping into the gap between the infeed table and the cutter block.

JasonB31/01/2019 12:32:33
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It is correct procedure to do it as NDIY says, you will get a very slight drop into any gap and a bit of snipe results but for the rest of the cut you will only plane the high spots. If you do it convex sidedown it will rock depending on where you apply pressure and stay wonky.

Ron Laden31/01/2019 14:27:52
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Thanks guys thats helpful, I think I am lucky in that the block is reasonably flat. I have checked the block both ways up and the way I first had it seems to be the best face down though not by much. One end has full contact and the other I can get a 0.04mm feeler under one corner but only in about 3mm. At the middle of the block the feeler goes in about 5mm deep and only on one side. I would have thought that pretty good and the side to work from.

ega31/01/2019 15:34:41
2805 forum posts
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Posted by JasonB on 31/01/2019 12:32:33:

It is correct procedure to do it as NDIY says, you will get a very slight drop into any gap and a bit of snipe results but for the rest of the cut you will only plane the high spots. If you do it convex sidedown it will rock depending on where you apply pressure and stay wonky.

Thanks for the correction - something to remember for when the woodshop beomes warmer!

NDIY: sorry I doubted you; in fact, all my reference books support you.

The relevant HSE Woodworking Information Sheet 17 seems not to deal with this point and I think this must be because the issue is one of practicality rather than safety.

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