Myford super 7 Positioning servo's on Spindle and main infeed

That's looking good, Andrew

MichaelG.

I used ground steel gauge plate 1/16" thick on mine. Available in half-inch wide strips, just right. Thickness needs to be more than the existing gap you can measure there (at both ends) so it moves the saddle back off the front shear. This means apron/halfnut /leadscrew alignment will need to be adjusted to suit. I secured the gauge plate strip by two dowel pins about 3/16" diameter, holes drilled and reamed through the saddle and strip while all clamped together. Strip was then retained with Loctite for good measure, and easy assembly. I would not trust adhesive alone to hold on for the next 50 years, hence the dowels as well. Dowels were just bits of common silver steel rod.

Once you have done the wide guide conversion, you can remachine the inner vertical surface of the front shear so it guides the tailstock truly without loose and tight spots. This operation can be done by running the saddle back and forth by hand, using the wide guide conversion to keep it running true. A vertical slide can be attached to the cross slide and long piece of half-inch square HSS ground like a shaper toolbit (or a lathe toolbit turned sideways in effect) can protrude downwards and remachine the shear surface like a planer as it goes back and forth. Depth of cut is determined by the cross slide, feed by the vertical slide.

If you wanted to get really particular, you could finish off with a Dremel or similar grinder in place of the HSS toolbit. However, I found the hand-planing method gave a very nice finish on the cast iron with a light cut, quite good enough for the job of guiding the tailstock. Knock the sharp edges off with a 10" single cut mill file etc.

Neil has a couple of articles on file for both these operations, so they may appear in MEW at some point.

Really pleased with the the resprayed cabinet.

Looking more like a real one

I am following because I have dreamt of eletronis screwcutting and cone making for Years.

I had a Myford 7 with a friend more than fifty years ago

He is still using it at home

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3j00T-fhvvc.

My granite based Boxford got a new home in his summer cottage and he says it is a better lathe than the Myford.

Sounds better,nicer surface etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeFLeNPhqDY

A canadian followed my advice and put his Myford on a big block of concrete.Very systematic guy so he made a cut before movement and one after; same piece of material same tool etc.Nigth and day finish.

If it is not to much bother can You please put the cabinet bottom up and photograph the underside of the lathe mount plate and surroundings?

.My friend and I and associated women are not so young anymore and his Myford is kind of caged in.

If I have a picture of Yours I think I can persuade him to liberate cabinet,fill the top from inside with crushed stone -epoxy mix and then his Myford will turn better than my former Boxford.Very important this.

Edited By Niels Abildgaard on 20/12/2018 18:07:27

Hi

It will be very difficult to turn upside down.

When I was cleaning the base up, I realised the top slides vertically off, hence the small bolts in each corner. There are heavy plates under the plate steel top for stability.

In my opinion you have to know when to stop, after all this is a Myford 7 and always will be.

I have taked many photos whilst carrying out the renervation, a lot of these are in my album, I have many more if you have a particular area of interest. Unfortunately I do not have a photo with the top plate removed.

I still think I have about 200 hours to completely finish the project and complete all the software.

Andrew

Hello Andrew

Thank You for explanation.

I thougth it was a standard thin-plate top cabinet that can surely be made more rigid.

There is someone not so far from here who has an old Myford and I will go with my phone and make a picture from floor level and up against the standard top plate.

Good luck and we are, I think,many who want to read about it.

Edited By Niels Abildgaard on 20/12/2018 22:09:56

Not sure if these photos help.

They show an extra plate to the right and left

Starting to look more like a lathe.

Edited By Andrew Davies 4 on 21/12/2018 06:47:17

Just sent drawings off to have spindle plate made. Made proto type in wood. Did not put slots in proto type as did not save the machine. Have to wait a week or so for the machine shop. 3 days design to make sure it was right!. Keeping fingers crossed. slots are for motor to tension belt.

As you will see from the attached, I am an electrical engineer, but the drawings work. This is the main spindle cutter plate. I have also got a few other bits comming.

Still about 100 hours of work before I cut gears.

HMI now fitted

Nice

MichaelG.

Looking good please keep the pictures and progress coming.

David

Someone has asked what paint I used.

Please see attached pics.

Someone has asked what paint I used.

Please see attached pics.

The main paint was great both for brush and spray.

Edited By Andrew Davies 4 on 10/01/2019 18:20:58

Edited By Andrew Davies 4 on 10/01/2019 18:23:53

Hi David

Looked at you profile. We come from similar background on engineering,but mine is electronic.

I also have a bike, Triumph street triple R, that is loved and cared for......

All the best

Andrew

This has been a long research and strange conclusion.

As the MT 1 taper cutter holder is going to be vertical, I wanted a nut that will hold the cutter shaft in place. The cutter shaft is being machined from an existing MT1 taper avaliable on the internet.

I need a nut to thread on the end of the sherline head stock that would hold the shaft, my extensive research found nothing.

I went into my garage and looked through my plumbing fittings and found that a 15mm compression fitting fitted the head stock!!

Perfect!

Edited By Andrew Davies 4 on 15/01/2019 20:57:48