What Did you do Today 2022

Was planning on spending some time in the workshop on the Quorn grinder, but yesterday noticed a water leak through the flat roof of my workshop.

So it looks like I will be outside the workshop replacing some of the perished roofing felt.

In the summer I will have to strip it all off and inspect the condition of the top decking before I refelt completely.

The roof didnt do too bad, I laid the felt back in 2008

I would like to consider some alternative methods though, including modifying the flat roof to increase the pitch, but that is not a job to do in the middle of winter !

Happy Christmas all and all the best for 2023

Derek

Derek-

What you might consider using is wriggly-bituminous sheeting, made in black or dark-green; laid on timbers over the existing boards to give a shallow slope. You'd need close the ends of the wriggles of course, using the moulding supplied for this, and fit barge-boards to come below the existing woodwork.

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Wot I Dun:

A soggy trip to town, momentary hope soon dashed, and a little more work on the steam-lorry.

Despite the bad weather the town centre was actually quite busy. I noticed no copies of our magazines in W.H. Smiths, but I don't know if by publication date or by the shop no longer stocking them. (I subscribe to ME.)

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Moment of Hope:

I discovered this evening that SolidEdge has a directly orthographic ( "2D" ) mode - perhaps possible for me.

SO I tried it.

Only, the cited exercise file and its path did not work, perhaps did not even exist. Then as SE's final insult to injury, the normal "Exit SolidEdge" tool did not work either.

No other choice: I closed the programme by Task Manager, then removed it and deleted my few exercises.

A relief, but Oh! - what a waste of time, effort, stress and electricity, just for complete failure.

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To What Matters:

A little more metalwork for the steam-wagon, and trying to assess how to thread the main water-pipe forwards from the tank floor, past the brake cross-beam and rear axle, to the vicinity of the engine and boiler.

That's not easy.

The differences in level and the spaces between them are not very large but together they take a fair depth, and I don't want to reduce the ground-clearance more than necessary, especially with fairly fragile parts.

Also I don't know yet what space where, will be occupied by the engine-case and either flywheel or transmission - depending which side of the chassis will be the better for the pipe to follow.

I am fitting a length of ordinary 15mm pipe to finish near the engine and boiler, by branching into smaller-diameter pipes to the feed devices.

My aim, such as it is, is to complete the steam-making parts first to serviceable state before concentrating on the steam-using parts. I could temporarily link the plumbing by hose until I have made enough of the machinery to suspend that in the chassis.

Derek - I can heartily recommend the EPDM (rubber) roofing membrane, I've done a few flat roofs with it now, and it's far better than felt in my opinion. More expensive, though, but re-roofing isn't something you want to redo very often.

Rob

I had a rubber roof when I moved in and it stank of plastic in hot weather, then gradually hardened and squirrel/cat claw scratches caused tears, the joints pulled apart and leaked. Lasted about 10 years. Replaced with triple layer felt from Wickes, NOT torch on, twenty years ago, Just don't bother with 'shed' quality felt.

We've got epdm on our clubhouse roof. One side which was properly stuck down has lasted well, the other side wasn't stuck down and has shrunk, causing rips where the nails are. Moral - make sure it's stuck down properly

Nails? I'd have a word (or three) with whoever installed it!

Rob

Derek,

I just used corrugated zinc sheeting. Bought the exact length required.

Never had to worry about the roof since!

Jim

Morning everyone,

Thanks for the advice on what to do re my leaking workshop flat roof.

I think I will replace the area where the felt has perished, then when the weather improves I will strip all the existing felt off and check the OSB boarding it is laid on. I should have done it last Summer!

Meanwhile I can at least look at the costs of alternative solutions to roofing felt. I have to say that the felt I laid down when I built my workshop (about the same size and shape as a single garage), around 2008 (or was it 2004?) has lasted well to be honest....

All the best

Derek

Joy oh joy! Changing motorbike tyres. My changing kit: Windex for tyre lube. Very slim Japanese 240mm tyre levers with nice thin pointy ends. "Bead Buddies" to hold the bead down in the well opposite where I am levering at. Talcum powder to lubricate the inner tube so it does not bind in use. And copious amounts of colorful language. Ooops, forgot the secret weapon: a Large rubber mallet so when you get to the last six inches of tyre that has to be stretched over the edge of the rim, instead of stretching it with tyre levers and cursing and swearing and carrying on, three good belts on the side of the tyre, one at each end of the bit to go on, then one in the middle, will usually pop it on without any of the usualy last bit stressing and dramas.

The final joy came when I went to put the back wheel back in the Norton frame. The new tyre would not fit between the swingarm legs. Bridgestone's BT45 tyre rated as 4.00" wide by 18" measures up at 4.560" wide. And no the seller will not take it back because it has been on a rim and has tyre lever marks on it, naturally. So I am out $200 for a garden ornament.

Happy. New. Year.

ON a brighter note, the other end of the bike is looking spiffy with shiny new tyre (which does fit!) and matching gaiters, new fork tubes and bushes and a proper twin leading shoe racing brake. Vrooom vrooom!

(IN the real world, the floor of my shed goes at the bottom. But not in ME Forum world for some reason. Sorry. It looks more like an artist's impression of the kind of wheelstands this Harley-powered Norton will be pulling when I get it on the road.   )

Edited By Hopper on 29/12/2022 08:05:51

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 29/12/2022 17:46:20

Moment of Hope:

I discovered this evening that SolidEdge has a directly orthographic ( "2D" ) mode - perhaps possible for me.

I've lost count of how many times I've stated that Solid Edge is both a 2D and 3D hybrid CAD system Nigel - but I think it may be worth one last try - although frankly I have no idea what you have tried (and seemingly failed) to do this time around.

Using Solid Edge CE - just open a new "Draft" document and then select the "Sketching" tab on the top line.

You can then 2D draft to your hearts content.

These '2D' sketching tools work exactly the same as when used in '3D' sketching mode, including constraints, dimensioning, keystoke short cuts etc. If the drawing 'page' is too small for you just select a larger page size or a different drawing scale. When finished drawing, you can either just save your work as a native 'Draft' (.dft) file or export it (translate) it to a PDF, DXL or DWG file.

If you need guidance on using SE sketching tools - then just watch any YouTube on 3D sketching - it's the same.

SE Sketching Basics

Regards,

IanT

Ian -

Thankyou.

I was trying to follow a Siemen's web-site tutorial, carefully, by the step-by-step instructions. These are like painting-by-numbers: obey the numbers and voila: brilliant art without understanding art. I can't learn methods from videos.

So.... follow the steps and I'll be right.......

Step 1: Select "Ordered" in some special menu - no definitions or explanations. I did that, uncomprehendingly.

Step 2: Open the specified exercise drawing. Oh dear - I can't find it!

Complete stop. The normal Windows file-searching tool failed to find it, too.

It was not using the example that caused me grief, but finding it. It did not exist!.

'''

I still have TurboCAD 2021 installed. I can manage its 2D mode, and use approximate copy-and-paste printing to fit the page without scale; rough work, simple level far below what is possible with TC.

TurboCAD uses its own file-type by default, but offers interchangeable formats too. Of them, I need only the occasional .jpg copy, e.g. for here.

Hi Nigel

As I mentioned back in September, you have to download the example files and extract them to a convenient place where you know where they are. Assuming you are looking for Sketch_A, you'll find it here.

Rob

Links to https://docs.plm.automation.siemens.com/data_services/resources/se/2020/se_help/common/nonLocalized/courseware_datasets/spse01510/sketch_A.zip

Nigel - I don't know what exercise you are doing?

As far as I'm aware, there is no "Ordered" (or "Synchronous" ) mode in Draft

Just try opening a 'Draft' document (as I've suggested) and use the 'Sketching' tab and start drawing with a few lines and circles to begin with.

If I can do it, then I'm sure you can too - your TurboCAD drawings are better than I ever managed.

Regards,

IanT

Edited By IanT on 29/12/2022 13:37:03

Ian -

I was just following the web-site's own instructions, and that gave the actions I described, starting with finding that Ordered setting. No mention of "Draft' .

I can't use SE now though.

It overwhelmed me with a 3D "tuition" exercise some while ago. I abandoned it until yesterday, then that new failure confirmed SolidEdge is too hard. So I removed the lot completely: both the exercises so far, and the programme itself.

'

Thank you for your compliment about my TurboCAD work!

I have no idea why the pump appeared in wire-frame, not its original rendered form. The wagon drawing took many hours of trial-and-error, right on my limit; so is incomplete and has no detailing. I doubt I could repeat either of those drawings now, especially as TurboCAD's 3D mode is even harder than SolidEdge.

'

I still have TC if I need a 2D CAD drawing; and might still see if I can partially rebuild my dismantled drawing-board. Though its original form is beyond reconstruction, I still have all the parts, and all intact.

.

Oddly, I received and deleted an e-post from Alibre's sellers only a week or so ago.

I had tried Alibre via the MEW offer, as potentially easier than the TurboCAD I had already bought up-front a few years previously.

The magazine subscription I bought, ignored my requested starting issue-number, creating a 2 editions gap. Unable to catch up, then fearing costly purchase or open-ended subscriptions to Alibre in the next year, I deleted the programme.

I told the Alibre publishers this soon after, when they started sending advertising rhubarb. That must have been at least two years ago!

Joy oh joy! Changing motorbike tyres.

Not one of my favorite occupations either, Hopper.

Seems to get harder with every set - maybe me getting old, but modern tyres seem to have very stiff sidewalls. Breaking the bead & getting the old tyre off the rim can be a real fight. The time may well be approaching when I pay someone else to do the job on a "ride in - ride out" basis.

Do you change the tyre on your bench as pictured ? I always do mine on the floor, so that I can kneel on the edge of the tyre to keep the side opposite the tyre levers pressed fully into the well in the middle of the rim. I use the standard BMW "R" series toolkit tyre levers - only about 6" long, but comfortable to use & more than enough leverage - don't usually have to resort to a mallet to get the last bit to pop over the rim, as a firm push with the heel of my hand on a well lubed tyre is usually enough.. Can't say that I get "tyre lever marks" using these. I used to use hand soap applied with a paint brush as a lubricant but splashed out on a tub of proper tyre soap when I had two pairs of tryes to fit last year & I think this worked better than my previous method.

I'm not overly suprised a nominally 4" wide tyre is too wide for your Norton SA - the original would have been a 3.50 / 3.60 x 19 " ? IIRC 4" tyres didn't come in until the arrival of the '70s "superbikes" like the CB750 & Z1 & were probably not available at the time the Norton was designed / built.

Nigel B.

Months ago you may have seen my thread about trying to source ready made cross drilled clamp bolts for the mini lathe fixed steady. I was trying to avoid making.

As expected rocking horse dropping are easier to find so today i found some 19 mm bar and turned the shank down. Threaded the tip M8 and then gave up due to cold .

Still to cross drilling tapping and machine the flats. That can be tomorrows task.

I had been doing other tasks with glow engines and lighting before hand. So i was not being a 5 minute wimp.

Happy New year to you all.

Derek

only just seen your post about your leaking roof, commiserations I also have a leaky workshop roof, mine is where I joined two adjacent sheds together and created a box gutter between the two to carry away the rain from one of the sheds. Was felted with torch on felt about 12 years ago and has finally given up and the OSB board used for the base of the box is now thoroughly soaked and dripping, running the dehumidifier 24/7 to try and reduce the moisture content but appear to be losing that battle. Repair scheme is to cut away the felt lining the box gutter, remove and replace with new the OSB board and I am contemplating fibreglassing the complete box in one go, not fibreglassed a roof before but there are plenty of vids on how to do it on YouTube, only problem is I need at least one if not two very dry days which are find to find in the depths of winter. These problems always happen when it’s inconvenient to effect repairs. Had contemplated the EDPM rubber method but reservations about its integrity with the local feline population using the workdhop roof for recreation purposes. Dave W

Derek

Just seen your post about your workshop roof.

I can recommend EPDM rubber for the roof.

I made a garden room this summer and did the roof with Classic Bond EPDM on OSB 3 Sterling board. It is easy to install. The adhesive is applied to half the roof at a time with a paint roller and the rubber sheet rolled on top and pressed down with a brush. I have never used it before but found it straightforward.

Stuart

Motorcycle work ground to a halt to day after I stepped into the bathroom and found the floor covered in water, which was ignoring the floor drain and spilling out onto the bedroom carpet. Source was the isolation valve for the toilet cistern leaking out around the spindle where the rubber o-ring had gone hard.

But the house -- and plumbing -- is 25 years old so "obsolete". No o-rings from the local hardware store's tap repair kits etc fitted, I found out when I got home and tried them. So had to go 10 miles into town to the big hardware store to buy one 9mm x 2.5mm o-ring. Good thing I bought a few of the next sizes smaller and larger while I was there, because when I got home, their alleged 9mm o-ring was a 10mm. But the next size smaller did the job and equanimity was restored.

Nothing is ever simple!

Hi Nigel, The Atlas 750 was unusual in taking a 4.00 x 18 standard. Been running them on my Atlas and my two Atlas-framed Harleys for over 30 years with no previous dramas. They all measure at 4.00 to 4.10" wide fitted to the rim. This Bridgestone measured 4.560 fitted to the rim. Way out of the ballpark.

Yes I got smart at last and fitted the tyre on the bench, by using two of those "Bead Buddies" clips to hold the bead down in the well on the opposite side to where I am levering. My days of working on the floor, standing doubled over and kneeling down etc are over I am afraid. Got to do things the easy way these days.

I used to have a pair of those nifty small BMW tyre levers in my R65 toolkit and always used them for changes. But forgot to hold them back when I sold the bike. My current R100RS has short but much wider tyre levers that are not so good. The ones I use now are the closest to the old BM ones, but sort of one size bigger.