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Broken drill bit in job

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John Stevenson06/11/2011 12:15:14
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Chuck the bastard.
You might have half a days work in it already but by the time you finish messing with it you will have a full day into it, at the least and a bodged up job at best or it will still go in the scrap bin.
 
Then put the whole episode down to experience.
 
Might sound harsh but it's not, it's experiences like this that develop skills and the second attempt will go faster than the first so even that is showing skill development.
 
If it was an expensive or rare casting then it's worth spending time but bar stock parts just are not worth the effort.
 
Anyone who hasn't broken a drill or tap whilst learning or even after hasn't done anything.
 
John S.
 
[ Who broke a M4 tap into an expensive part last week, last hole as well. I was going to have it professionally spark eroded but the customer told me it was only for a securing clip and accepted a new hole to one side - Phew !! ]
Wolfie06/11/2011 20:13:17
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502 forum posts
Lots of interesting advice there however theres a couple of added spokes in works that mean I really don't want to chuck it.
 
1. I don't have a milling machine (although working on that)

and 2. I don't have another piece of metal big enough to make a new one without sending off mail order

I think I'll go down the route of making the cavity and hope the broken bit comes out with it.
JasonB06/11/2011 20:26:49
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Should still be able to do it on the lathe or even stitch drill and saw/file out the cavity. Once thats done set it up in the 4 jaw and do the drilling in the lathe, drill and ream the 3/32nd hole first then open up the stuffing gland cavity.
 
You can now tackle the hole at the other end, as I said a long centre drill is best but you could even grind a point on a bit of 3/32 rod and use that as a long punch to get a start dimple on the far side of the cavity. Then drill the hole, the advantage of having the cavity done is that you don't have to back the drill off much to clear the flutes as the swarf can drop out into the cavity.
 
This is what you really want

J

Edited By JasonB on 06/11/2011 20:27:54

Wolfie06/11/2011 23:35:17
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A picture is worth a thousand words! Brilliant. Whats that metal, and where do I get some?
JasonB07/11/2011 07:28:30
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That started life as a bit of 1" square bras, hacksawed to about 5/8x1x2 and then flycut to size, next the bolt holes and cavity were do in the mill but like I said the lathe will do the same job.
 
 

 
Most of the ME metal suppliers will have the metal mine probably came from College Engineering.
 
J&L do the long ctr drills that one is 1/8x3" , I also have a 3/16x4" but you can get them upto 6" long. If you go to their site, click the virtual catalogue and look at page 99.
 
As you say a picture make it easier to follow thats why I took those shots yesterday while I happened to be doing a steam chest.
 
One thing you would have to do if using the 1/8" ctr drill that I mentioned above is to fit a "neck bush" this is just a bronze or gun metal bush that fits into the chest and gives the valve rod a more suitable metal to run against, on full size it had the advantage of being easily changes if any wear took place. You can just see the brones in the second pic at the bottom of the stuffing box and where it enters the valve chest in the first.
 

J

 

Edited By JasonB on 07/11/2011 07:37:39

Stub Mandrel08/11/2011 20:55:03
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But is it a traction engine steam cylinder or a diving helmet?
 
Seriously, that's lovely work Jason, is it the ME Allchin?
 
Neil
 

JasonB09/11/2011 07:21:57
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2" Fowler that MJ Eng do, should be at ME this year, bit about the build here
 
J
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