Steve Garnett | 21/04/2011 22:42:55 |
837 forum posts 27 photos | Thanks for the replies, guys. I'm pretty certain that I've got to do something which involves silver-soldering, but it's a bit of a moot point as to what. The idea of reversing the polarity of the driving sections so that they are male instead of female is intriguing - the only thing that concerns me about that is that it would inevitably leave parts of the shank projecting beyond the circumference of the chuck, if I only used the 2mm available, and that they'd have rather sharp edges! OTOH, Les's point about what the soldering temp would inevitably do the the steel does leave me thinking well, what the heck I might just as well soften them anyway. And if I did that, then I could drill them, and it would then be possible to insert some hex bar or whatever rather further in, so that it wouldn't have to project beyond the circumference at all. Since the screw has that groove in it, it might well be possible with a bit of care not to soften the entire screw by using a heatsink around the longer part of the thread. Then I'd only have to choose whether to make them male or female driven. All these points have been useful - I will sleep on it! |
John Olsen | 22/04/2011 02:01:56 |
1294 forum posts 108 photos 1 articles | Steve, I don't think it is going to matter if you do soften the screws. Unless you are planning to use the chuck for mass production work, a mild steel screw would last a lifetime.If I were to find myself making something like this at home, I would probably try to find a piece of good steel, say high tensile bolt or similar, but I would not try to harden it. On the possibility of reversing the sex of the screws by brazing in a piece, you might not want to do this for a lathe chuck, where the bits sticking out would be a hazard, but if it is for use on a rotary table or dividing head it would not matter. regards John |
John Mills 2 | 15/03/2012 20:18:16 |
1 forum posts | I've just seen this thread and it is probably a bit late for you now but G & M Tools (Ashington) have a box of jaw screws from which I found the exact one I needed to repair my Burnerd 4-jaw. It needed to be dressed and carefully fitted but the 'repair' is permanent. Best to visit with broken item and then match it up from the many in the box! John Mills |
jomac | 17/03/2012 09:47:30 |
113 forum posts | Hi, whats wrong with TIG welding a similar piece of metal in place, if you do one weld then let it cool down, (anyway TIG welds that small dont get that hot), then grind away the excess, or use another chuck or collet to machine down the offending bits. By the way as said before DONT!!! hit the key or but a length of steel in the chuck jaws and belt that too, not only do you damage the screws and the chuck jaws, you can also put the chuck out of alignment with the back plate, even bending the holding down screws. If you have some spare time, drill three or four holes into the outside rim of the back plate and make a HEAVY duty C spanner, to remove stubborn chucks, if you drill the holes properly they make good indexing marks. John Holloway. |
colin hawes | 17/03/2012 10:48:48 |
570 forum posts 18 photos |
Whilst it is desirable to get on with the current model,it is possible to make a chuck screw if necessary using something like EN24. After all that's what a lathe is for and we do already make more complicated parts for our models. I made such a screw some years ago and it is still going strong. Colin |
JOHN BRIDGE 1 | 24/01/2013 20:51:34 |
104 forum posts 11 photos | I have just bought a Bernerd chuck 6" 4 jaw with a screw damaged similar to the ones shown in the pics. posted in this thread, I have a friend who I think will be able to weld this for me, how do I remove the screw from the chuck. |
JOHN BRIDGE 1 | 26/01/2013 13:33:42 |
104 forum posts 11 photos |
Posted by JOHN BRIDGE 1 on 24/01/2013 20:51:34:
I have just bought a Bernerd chuck 6" 4 jaw with a screw damaged similar to the ones shown in the pics. posted in this thread, I have a friend who I think will be able to weld this for me, how do I remove the screw from the chuck. Sorted now.
|
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.