By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Forum House Ad Zone

Milling a square lump of steel that isn't square

Trying to get two faces parallel

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
<< First < Prev 1 2
Ian S C05/03/2011 10:06:16
avatar
7468 forum posts
230 photos
In many places where the 'experts' use the milling machine, I find it just as quick, or quicker to set up in the vise and take the piece of metal to size with a file, and if need be a hacksaw, in the latter perhaps the bandsaw, or with the anvil, a drill. A bit over an hours work, it lives in a miniature workshop with other tools, a lathe and a drill press driven from a line shaft.  Ian S C

Edited By Ian S C on 05/03/2011 10:12:17

mgj05/03/2011 15:35:58
1017 forum posts
14 photos
Lovely work Ian
 
I do actually work to great accuracy - more than is needed , but that is just a natural caution against having to do it again - or bodge about getting it to work.
 
I admire the filers and cold chiselers, and the pattern makers too. They are far more skilled and patient than I. I suppose I just enjoy using machine tools. I don't design any more, (all that rithmetic strains the brain)I just want a sound workable set of drawings,something with dials, and a thing that works well at the end. Bliss!!!

Edited By mgj on 05/03/2011 15:36:45

John Olsen05/03/2011 22:47:45
1294 forum posts
108 photos
1 articles
Well, yes, everything can be done with a file and a chisel...but when I were a young lad, we had to make our own file and chisel first... I think Tubal Cain took this sort of thinking to its logical conclusion, and perhaps beyond, with "Handmaiden", a horizontal engine (from Stuart castings IIRC) done entirely with hand tools.
 
Then there is this question of working to a higher accuracy than needed. Well, it certainly does not pay to make the fits of bearings and pistons tighter than is needed, you end up with a very stiff engine that takes a lot of running in. On the other hand, while it is true that the block for holding a rule vertical does not need to be machined on all faces, nor does it actually need to be absolutely square, it is an item that is going to be in the workshop and used fairly regularly. So while it might not need to look nice, it is far more satisfying to use if it does. It is also arguable that it is potentially more useful if it is known to be accurately made, to at least reasonable tolerances. I have a small surface guage that I made following some drawings+ 25 years ago. The foot is turned from a piece of round stock, and the top surface has decorative grooves turned into it...these do not add a thing to the functionality of the device, but I think were worth the trouble just for the appearance.
 
It can also be good, when something needs machining, to use it as practice to find out how close you can work....better to find out your limits on something that doesn't matter too much before you start on a critical part.
 
regards
John
Terryd06/03/2011 22:07:41
avatar
1946 forum posts
179 photos
Hi John,
 
I never said that the item should not look well or that it should not be machined or decorated etc. After all it was one of one of my heroes, William Morris who said that one should;
 
“Have nothing in your house that you do not know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful”,
 
i.e. form and function, a philosophy also espoused by the great Bauhaus designers, and this is a tenet I have attempted to live and work by. What I did say is that this tool only needed two faces to be reasonably accurately machined and an over emphasis on excessive accuracy was unnecessary. I accept that some may argue for maximum accuracy whatever the circumstances (I have seen the argument here) and I also accept that there are those who believe the article is not complete without a carving from Angkor Wat to appease the gods of craftsmanship on each non datum face but that will not change my own personal philosophy
 
By the way there is an example of the 4 jaw method of producing square objects in the latest MEW No174, which I still think for a beginner is the best, most accurate and safest method. The method is shown in the article on the Worden tool grinder.
 
With respect and best regards
 
Terry

Edited By Terryd on 06/03/2011 22:09:24

John Coates10/03/2011 21:58:13
avatar
558 forum posts
28 photos
UPDATE
 
All worked out well in the end. I used a piece of wood against the rough face and the good face against the fixed jaw. Got the majority of material removed by milling with an endmill and am now finishing off with a fly cutter taking lighter cuts for a better finish
 
Thanks to all and I enjoyed the segway into apprenticeships and former trials and tribulations
Robert Dawes 111/03/2011 15:32:11
5 forum posts
I'm glad that John Coates got everything to work out O.K.in the end and I found all the comments and advice helpful and interesting. The method that I have used ever since I've owned a milling machine is this, seen in ME many years ago
 
.First, the problem, As has been mentioned above, the moving jaw lifts when it is tightened taking the workpiece with it .
 
I have, in the top surface of the moving jaw of my milling vice, two holes drilled and tapped 5/16 BSF. Having placed the workpiece in the vice I tighten the vice until I see the workpiece and the moving jaw lift. With two of the slotted clamps normally used to clamp work to the milling table, using the two tapped holes, and a couple of 5/16 bolts I force down the workpiece to touch the base of the milling vice.This has the effect of raising the moving jaw as far up as it will go. ie it can't go any further because it is restrained by
whatever holds it to the base. I next fully tighten the vice. It is now safe to remove the clamps. Nothing will move. The jaw is "up", it can't go down. The workpiece is "down" and it won't go up because the moving jaw is up as far as it will go.
<< First < Prev 1 2

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Sarik
MERIDIENNE EXHIBITIONS LTD
Shopping Partners
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate