I have made a boob

If Dell's topslide casting is anything like the two that Michael linked to then reducing its over height by 2mm, or even a bit more should be no problem and the reduction in rigidity would not even be noticed. My understanding of Myfords is that some models are marginal on toolholder to centreline distance so only relatively small HSS bits can be used.

Shaving a few mm off the top face will increase the range of toolbit sizes that will be usable.

As it happens the toolpost holes in Michaels pictures look larger than 11mm

Myford part Clive mentioned is on Page 2 of his link

Ian P

Are you sure machining 2mm off the topslide is a good idea? The ML7 ones weren't all that rigid anyway, perhaps the ML10 is more substantial. It's a lot irreversible!

.

As the photos that I linked should make evident … The ML10 topslide is very different.

MichaelG.

Okay after all the comments I have decided on a course of action, let me first explain that when I contacted Peter @ PeWe tools told him what I had he suggested the size Aa but said mill 2mm off the bottom of the tool bit holders , I have Glanz indexable holders and HSS bits so I took them to my local engineering company and they mill 2mm off the bottom ( he said they were bloody hard ) but upon resting tool post and holder with tool in it was still thereabouts 1mm to high hence having 2mm off the top of compound ( I understand it’s okay to take up to 5mm off ) .

what I have decided to do is turn the original stud down to 10mm apart from the shoulder that will sit in the compound about 9mm after 2mm has been taken off top of compound, it shouldn’t be difficult to hold stud because it’s way to long for what I need I will just need to put a centre In large end to locate rotating centre then turn down to 10mm the hard bit after cutting to length will be holding it to thread, what thread to use?, would a course or fine ?, I have M10 in

M10X1 and M10X1.5, then make a sleeve 18mm o/d 10mm I/d 14.5mm high, I have a 10mm reamer, I hope that all makes sense if not please let me know, an suggestions on holding for drilling would be helpful as well please.

sorry if I have rambled on but I am used to making small parts for torsion clocks mainly using a graver so am not used to making or modifying larger parts but I will get there and your help is much appreciated.

Dell

I have two aversions.

1 Taking metal off a machine. (Later, you might wish that you hadn't! )

2 Scrapping anything.

So why not modify Jason's suggestion?

If you already have a theread in the longer piece, why not Locitite into place a stud?

You make the stud to the length that you require.

You then make up a "collet" to hold the shorter piece whikle you drill and tap it to fit on the stud..(This will separate it from the present threaded portion )

Does ikt have to be round? (Hard to grip, unless it has pin holes drilled for a "spanner" with which to hold / drive it)

Could it be hexagon to use a normal spanner?

Just a few thoughts

An afterthought, having converted by inserting a stud

If the diameter of the shorte piece wre an interfernce fit in the Top Slide, (Or possibly Loctited into place ) could the longer piece be screwed into palce using a stud box?

A stud box is only a bit of heaxagon, tapped right through with a setscrew asa the driving element.

Howard.

Edited By Howard Lewis on 27/02/2023 11:52:05

If you are happy to rework the Myford Stud then is the large dia at the end of the original stud small enough to enter the hole in your chuck?

If so hold by the existing 7/16" (11.1mm) shank with the large dia behind the chuck jaws, turn some down to 10mm and thread, also add a ctr drill hole in the end.

Now grip by the large dia in the 3 jaw and using tailstock support turn the remaining length down to 10mm to just below where the top surfaceof the top slide comes.

You will then have a stud that looks like the one ARC sell

Edited By JasonB on 27/02/2023 12:31:41

Hi Howard

from what I understand it’s acceptable to mill up to 5mm of the top of the ml10 compound so I can’t see it being a problem the only reason for it is to get to centre height with a bit of adjustment, there is already 2mm off the tool bit holders but it’s not enough I need another 1mm or there abouts.

Dell

Okay so I changed my mind yet again, ( wife said it’s her place to change her mind not mine ) anyway I decided to use the original tool post stud and bore out a bush and the sleeve on top of Multifix, although I hadn’t done any boring before I found it was just as easy to bore as it is to turn down the OD apart from not being able to see what’s happening, I decided to make the bush first just in case I cocked the boring part up as I didn’t want to cock up the sleeve on the Multifix, I knew I had to shorten the stud but didn’t count on having to alter the nut as well because the adjuster on the tool holder fouled on it , I ended up cutting it in half and milling a couple of flats on it , ( it only needed one but looked odd ), I have about 1.5mm of adjustment so am happy with the outcome

Dell