Simple PCB layout software

Last batch of 10 boards (double sided) I got from pcbway cost a total of $9.04 including Global Economy Shipping which took a couple of weeks to get them here with no further charges.

Cost seems very reasonable if the boards are less than 100mm x 100mm

Peter

I've tried various but overall found KiCAD the best - one source of confusion though is inadvertently following a tutorial for an older version - they've changed it quite a lot.

For PCB fab, I've used Elecrow (https://www.elecrow.com/pcb-manufacturing.html), they're pretty quick and the prices and quality are good.

I use the Eagle (free version) for 10+ years and make my PCB's using the toner transfer method. I can't/want wait until a PCB arrives from China and I really like making my own stuff.

Extending the library in Eagle is "easy" if you know how to do it. I expect this applies to all schematic packages. For eagle there are also a lot of public libraries.

I have tried Kikad because it is open source but it couldn't get along with it, so I stick with Eagle. I am sure, that if I spend more time learning Kikad it will do the job.

I am going to build a dedicated router to make my PCB's. If PCB milling is your goal, you should select a package (probably a combination of packages) that can do this. Check youtube to find out how complicated it is before deciding what to use and take the time to learn it because, like all CAD/CAM software it takes some effort to learn.

I am going to use the method shown in this video. It uses Eagle and Flatcam.

PCB milling using Eagle and Flatcam

Huub

I recently bought a cheap 3018 CNC router. After looking at various suggestions on this site and others I have used Eagle, Flatcam and Candle to make my first small pcb using this method. It took a bit of experimenting but came out ok. I used the Heightmap feature in Candle which seemed to work ok.

Stuart

Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 18/01/2023 00:09:08

Stuart, I'm curious to know how you aligned the table of your 3018 to be perpendicular relative to the cutter. On my (two) machines there is no screw-adjustment just multiple fixing screws for each axis. When I tried that, it was impossibly hit and miss.

I did see a suggestion somewhere of mounting a thick aluminum sheet on the table and a milling-type cutter in the head. Then machining the whole sheet area - which would guarantee alignment.

(Someday I'm going to get back to that 3018 if I can remember where I shelved it).

Stuart,
That looks like a pretty good PCB.
I want to build a PCB router because the build is also a tryout for the steel milling router that I am going to build. It also gives me the option to optimise the outside dimensions.

Peter,
Aligning a router starts by using the adjustment options (play) in the construction. After that, milling the table is a good option to get things right. If you use a (wooden) spoil board, you can also just mill the top of the spoil board.

Huub

Edited By Huub on 18/01/2023 12:02:13

Edited By Huub on 18/01/2023 12:02:37

Even when you have milled a flat plate the board may be bowed or non-uniform. You can correct this by probing the board when mounted using a simple conducting probe to measure the deviation and correct the g-code for depth. There's software around to do this.

Thanks for all the inputs - I now have more options than I can handle! For the moment I will persevere with Fritzing, anything that produces Gerber output is fine. I use CamBam and that has an isolation routing plugin which I hope will work. First priority though is testing the breadboard on the new clock!

Peter

The router I bought is this one:

With a bit of time, you can adjust it but it is still not that robust. I made a couple of aluminium blocks to hold the gantry in position, loosened the screws and used feelers to hold in position while I tightened everything up.

I used the probe feature to test the spindle height above the table at various points. It is still not perfect, but using the Heightmap feature I managed to get it to mill the pcb ok using a v cutter.

This is a screenshot of the Heightmap in the Candle software:

Stuart

Interesting .... thanks, Stuart!

The easy one is the one you are used to, everything else is a nightmare. I am still using the same Protel I have been using for the last 30 years or so.

Absolutely true!