Parting tip breakage

Watched it twice. Looks very much like the toolpost rotated under pressure. Which would break any tool. But what do I know. I am only a Hammer chewer.

Steve.

I don't think so. I think it started cutting crooked and sprung back when it predictably broke the tip.

I bought a carbide tipped tool about 25 years ago and bent the blade - unsurprisingly, it never worked too well after that. I now use a HSS parting blade (likely a high Cobalt type) in the rear tool post under power feed (mostly). It gets sharpened on the linisher, as and when required, and will likely last me out - or the spare blade, I have, will!

Why would you put such rubbish on you tube, oh hold on we aren't meant to criticise.

Tony

Because, from the commentary, and the links to those products below the video, it seems clear to me he is advertising those products (freebies - and likely sales commission?) for the supplier. He is, I believe, being an ‘influencer‘, as they call them. Thus (IMO) he is attempting to show the older examples as poor and the advertised ones as a far better replacement.

These types of videos cut no ice with me, and shouldn’t with anyone else (but they obviously do).

I’ll rest my case, at this point, and leave it up to the real ‘sneering’ posters to defend that type of videos.

[This posting has been removed]

Thanks Barrie, I, m glad it has been removed then, won't waste any time watching it.

Ron

I can see neither a video nor a link to a video in the first or any other post.

Whoops, I've just seen a previous post about it being removed. Why? If the video is unsuitable for some reason that necessitates it's removal, then the thread should also be deleted and replaced with a suitable message.

Edited By Gary Wooding on 31/05/2020 10:02:44

The Video was removed by Neil, his "EDIT" an the bottom of the first post shows that he edited it. I have already removed another post to who's Youtube channel it was this morning so could I please ask that no other links or pointers are added to the forum as they too will be removed.

Neil may post more in the week but let him have his weekend to himself.

At the moment I'm happy for the thread to continue so long as it is about the tool/method

J

Edited By JasonB on 31/05/2020 10:08:40

[This posting has been removed]

.

I agree, Gary

I hadn’t looked at this thread until today, so I don’t know what I’ve missed
... and nor do I care.

MichaelG.

.

Edit: ___ But I do respect Jason’s decision.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 31/05/2020 10:35:59

Jason, agreed that Koroly say that style of insert can be used for parting but they use different final letters for the parting tools. PT for parting tough, PS for parting sharp. The others are M for multi-turning, G for grooving and A for aluminium. Clearly different shapes.

At around £15 an insert folk like us are unlikely to spring for the real thing.

Problem with the look-alikes / fit same holder breed is knowing exactly what shape they are and how appropriate they are for our machines. I suspect the profile would be something a long Koroly M or G so chip evacuation will become an issue on deeper cuts. Doesn't help that the real thing is designed for production at warp speed 6 on modern, ultra stiff machines. Chip behaviour will be different on our lighter, slower, machines and the insert is designed to exploit the way it actually behaves.

I find it interesting that the maximum depth of cut for the Koroly parting tool holders is around 1/2", there are a couple going out to 1" or so. The holders are also integrated types rather than blade. Suggests that stiffness is important and the design isn't optimised for deep cut chip evacuation. Whether intrinsically so or just at warp speed 6 I know not.

Realistically for folk like us the important thing is that the tool is sharp, cuts freely and that the chip comes out cleanly. I've no doubt that a properly selected insert in this style held in a decent holder and presented to the work in an appropriate manner, which probably isn't book speed, can work just fine. But getting that sort of thing right tends to be a little over newbie pay grade.

The issue I have with whole the "get the new super duper insert and your problems will be over" is that folk tend to keep repeating the same old set-up and operation errors so no insert, how ever super duper, will solve the problem. Wasting money and time. When it comes to parting off to any depth errors can be subtle.

I shudder to think how much time and money I've wasted over the years trying to spend my way out of issues when the right approach would have been a solid weekend of teach yourself training on what I'd already got.

Clive

Clive Foster:

Amen to that last paragraph!

Have you ever thought of collecting some of your posts for the benefit of the rest of us?