Mini mill or handtools for this job (rectangle with slots)

I'd go with something a bit more forgiving than Corian as it's a bit brittle in my opinion and easily cracked

Maybe expanding rubber threaded inserts would work on plug duties if they can be found in a suitable size. Trim to length in the lathe removing the lip on the top so you don't need the stepped base. If the whole of the insert is within the bore it will expand and grip well. No need to go well through to make a "nut substitute' bulge on the bottom for this sort of job. Nut bulge makes for an immensely strong fitting if something needs to stay fixed tho'.

I have done similar in the past, albeit with smaller 5 or 6 mm threaded ones and recall sffiicient of clearance to slide in and out but sill enough grip to hold when you start the screw.

One type shown here **LINK** .

Called well nuts in that link but I searched for "expanding rubber threaded insert" and got a host of results of varying relevance. I imagine variations might come up with more directly relevant ones.

Clive

"Rawl Nut" after Rawl who first introduced them gives good results.

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... simply because that's what was referenced in the opening question.

MichaelG.

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My reading is that they are precision locating stops

MichaelG.

I may have got the wrong end of the stick, but I don't think the 'nuts' have to grip anything, aren't they more like dowel pins and just drop into the holes to provide a sideways stop?

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You have the correct end of the stick

MichaelG.

You need a bit of grip somewhere or the knobs can't be tightened up as the pin will spin. Presumably the rebate on the underside engages with a straight sided flange on the pin so it doesn't turn when you tighen the knob.

A major potential issue with this sort of thing is clearance between pin and hole. If its nice and slack the pin drops in easily but a plain, non expanding pin will wobble around so the fence isn't particularly precision. One such of my acquaintance not only wobbled but also tended to lift so it needed to be pushed back against the side of the hole and down on the baseplate before each cut. Initially irritating rising to .....

Going the other way a nice tight pin that can just be slid in if aligned just so won't wobble but fitting the stops with the pins hung on them will be a royal pain. Need to push the pins in first then fit the stop and tighten the screws.

Like a lot of these superficially simple things making something that pretty much works if you are careful and apply a little verbal encouragement isn't stupidly difficult. Turning out something that works exactly like it says on the tin every time with no messing, swearing or other impediments to fast accurate work is a whole different ball game oftimes involving considerable hidden subtlety. Something you should be paying for when buying a commercial product but regrettably often affordable versions don't really make the cut.

For home build you may well be better sorting a system where the pins are locked in place first and the fence fitted afterwards. As suggested previously Rawl Nuts (thanks Jason, now I know what they are called and can find them next time) might do the deed. Another approach I've seen work used pins made a sliding shake free fit with a couple of O rings in grooves to give the grip. The O rings were barely proud of the main body, a thou or three I guess, but the pins didn't wobble and pulled out with a nice pop. But that system had a base of aluminium tooling plate with accurately sized, nicely finished holes. Dunno if the system is up to working with, inevitably looser, woodworker tolerances.

Clive

It's all described and illustrated, rather well, on the website, Clive

... I see no flats on the sides of the 'DoubleGroove™ 20mm Bench Dogs'

MichaelG.

It would be a great excuse to buy a small mill, however, they could be made out of plastic or mdf, slightly larger for strength using a router. The mdf could be varnished to make it last longer.

I’m not a fan of MDF but Plywood on the other hand can be quite durable and often used for jigs by wood manglers.

Actually what got me into metalworking again has a lot to do with ability to make up jigs, fixtures, bushes, "bench dogs" that support woodworking. I've been gripped by it entirely after the mini lathe purchase allowed me knock up several bench dogs without too much fuss. Of course it would have been a lot cheaper to just buy them, but where's the fun in that.

Back to this project and based upon the very helpful and varies replies, I think iterating the fun / stress / cost equation results in a BUY decision, not make (although I appear to have a growing desire to get myself a nice mini mill!! )

Thanks all.

It depends on what you call "precision"

Woodworking precision = 1/32" or maybe 1/64", Metalworking precision = 1/1000"

Paul

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Sorry, Paul ... we could go on like this forever ... but you might be pleased to know that I don't intend to.

First: I know what I mean by "precision" ... and that's about repeatability.

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Have you read the claims.made for this system ?

and have you read this quote from a happy user:

[quote] “I absolutely love the dog stops. I used them today to cut ten side panels for five cabinet boxes and only made one measurement. When I stacked the ten panels next to each other, you could not even feel with your fingernails where one panel ends and the next one begins.” [/quote]

They are not talking about 1/32" or 1/64" there.

I have no interest [in either sense] in this system ... but I'm impressed.

MichaelG.