Need milling tools/cutters

Just an edit to the fibre gear comments above - Pro Machine Tools do list the fibre gear as available at £66 each inc. Vat.

**LINK**

The spare parts list is here as a .pdf : **LINK**

Note that the spindle was only available as a complete quill/spindle assembly - no separate bearings listed.

Nigel B

Hi guys

Wow what a response.

The link to the m2 collets look like a good idea and indeed will afford me more headroom

So,cutters, hss or cobalt, 2, 3 or 4 flute?

Edited By dave train on 14/01/2017 18:01:57

Ian, this is where I get my cutters from. https://www.carbidenz.co.nz/ I buy mainly 3 flute and 4 flute centre cutting. I buy the non coated Ali cutters for plastic, Non Ferrous, and woods . Coated for steels mainly. If you make your own MT2 with ER16, it can be made quite short, like about 35mm out from the spindle face, or shorter if you have some of the back end of the collet inside the spindle face, but then only leaves about a 3mm wall section.

Thanks for that Neil.

Ian S C

Cobalt is a little tougher, and 3 flute will give you the best of both worlds. 2 flute, mainly for plunging and slot cutting, 4 flute for side cutting and finishing.

Michael W

Cheers, confused, so are you saying that 3 flute will do side cutting, fishing, plunging and slot cutting?

I will, to save cost probably get HSS in 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10 and 12mm 3 flute end mills plus 6, 10 and 12 2MT Collets.  Anyone know what size draw bar I will need for my mill?

Edited By dave train on 15/01/2017 15:50:33

3-flute are a good all round compromise and will be fine to get you started.

Anyone know what size draw bar I will need for my mill?

The parts list I linked to above shows the factory part was an M10 x 200 Cap screw to DIN912, sitting with a washer against the end of the spindle. The thread you require will depend on the collets you buy - mine were 3/8" BSW & I made a suitable drawbar - I can drag it out & make a sketch if you want ?

We use 3 flute cutters almost exclusively at work. HSS cheaper to replace than carbide when you break one on the learning curve ! Before you send your order off the Arc, what kind of vice have you got ?

Edited By Nigel B on 15/01/2017 16:33:20

Sorry Neil, forgot about your link.  Item 27 and this looks like it sits under item 22, is that correct?

My Vice, its a 3" one of these **LINK**

Edited By dave train on 15/01/2017 16:53:50

My Vice, its a 3" one of these **LINK**

Looks OK - one thing less for the shopping list !

Yes, Item 27 is the drawbar & Item 22 is the retaining cap that ejects the tool when you unscrew the drawbar.

Nigel B

Edited By Nigel B on 15/01/2017 16:56:10

You wont catch many fish with it unfortunately, but otherwise yes, it will do all of the above with relative ease, I worked with a pro who always swore by 3 flute cutters over different types. That's not to say you don't try different ones out, but they'll be all rounders.

You'll need to get your Vernier and thread gauge to figure out what drawbar thread you've got.

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 15/01/2017 17:16:01

Opps, haha

Maybe I don't fully understand why I would need to do that? I was going to buy some M10 threaded bar and feed that through the hole in Item 22 thought to the collet and then tighten using a washer and 2 nuts, Would that be ok and if not why not

Edited By dave train on 15/01/2017 18:04:38

Ah ok then, that makes sense, I just thought this was a ready-made.

Michael W

Well, I am not sure why folk are saying that a 20mm endmill is a no-go on the FB-2? I have 3 of the FB-2 machines ( yes, I collect them! When I see one going, I buy it!)

I use the ER25/MT2 collet chuck that EMCO supplied with the mill, and then standard 10mm drawbar MT-2 end mills, up to 26mm. I can take a 0.5mm cut across the full 26mm endmill, in aluminium, with lube/coolant, at a gentle feedrate , with no complaints from the FB-2, and a great finish. I also use the 40mm shell-endmill on aluminium when 'hogging' to size and going gently all works fine.

One of my FB-2's is fitted with a 3 phase VFD, directly coupled 1KW motor, while the spindle is still a 10mm drawbar MT-2. I can take a 1mm cut in aluminium with the 40mm shell endmill, and I use a 50mm 4 carbide insert shell endmill to take a 0.5mm cut in mild steel...

I do like the FB-2..

On the far left is one standard, fitted with DRO and the EMCO X axis power feed, with a DIY Z power feed.

Center of image is an FB-2 converted fully to CNC.

The DRO FB-2-

And here is the one fitted with the Jones and Shipman direct coupled motor/spindle.

Joe

M10 threaded bar and feed that through the hole in Item 22 thought to the collet and then tighten using a washer and 2 nuts, Would that be ok and if not why not

The drawbar really needs to be a socket head cap screw to get the tool self ejecting function. Item 22 is removed, a washer placed on the exposed end of the spindle & the drawbar inserted, then the cap (Item 22) replaced. The drawbar is now free to rotate, but is axially constrained by the cap - the hole in the end of the cap allows an Allen key to be inserted in the drawbar. When you come to remove the tool, as the drawbar is unscrewed it rises until it contacts Item 22 - further unscrewing of the drawbar forces the tool out of the taper without putting any pressure on the spindle bearings. The thread on Item 22 is finer than the drawbar thread, so even if the cap should come loose as the drawbar is forced against it, the tool is ejected faster than the cap unscrews.

This will not happen if you use a bit of threaded bar & two locknuts. If you want to use this arrangement, remove Item 22 all together & keep in a safe place, then have your "hex bolt" drawbar bear directly on the end of the spindle via a washer. Downside to this arrangement is the need to hit the end of the drawbar with a hammer to release the tool - something the spindle bearings will not thank you for in the longer term.

Joe is a braver soul than I to run such large cutters in an FB2 - the swivelling head is only held with two bolts & I have had my head move under cutting loads with 12mm cutter.

Nigel B

Neil, what you say makes sense to me, I will see if I can either buy one (any idea where?), make or just use my idea

Without seeing it in person, this looks like it is an ok thing. It has the 10mm thread for the draw bolt and a set of collets for a very reasonable price. If the collet chuck is good, to me it's worth buying just for the 2MTER16 chuck.Certainly beats having to make one. Sometimes making your own has benefits , like you know how good or bad it is right away. Hope this helps, Quite often I make stuff, mainly due to the long wait from overseas. If it is readily available and to the level of precision they claim, I buy locally when possible. I also make some of my own collets as well and other things for the ER series of tools. Neil 

http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/ER16-COLLET-CHUCK--10-PIECE-COLLET-SET---2-MORSE-TAPER-SHANK-12568.html

Edited By Neil Lickfold on 16/01/2017 09:32:57

I have managed to locate the draw bar - **LINK**