Member postings for Johnboy25

I've seen a really nice little application of an Arduino that take into consideration the number of teeth your sensor sees for one revolution. This is modified in the program prior to downloading it to the Arduino. For the life of me I can't remember what website I saw this but it looked very useful for this type of application. If your interested I suggest that you search for Arduino RPM indicator as a good starting point.

John

Edit... Dyslexia is a wonderful thing! 😨

Edited By Johnboy25 on 11/02/2015 14:15:51

Edited By Johnboy25 on 11/02/2015 14:16:21

Hi Ed...

I totally agree with Martin. The components your using will be CE marked so I don't believe there's a problem. One thing I will add is if your concerned about the case becoming live - check the continuity between the earth conductor of the three pin plug top to the chassis of your enclosure. You should see a very low resistance on the DMM and that's assuming the earth conductor is the same CSA of the live & neutral for fault current capability. Hope that make sense!

John

Edited By Johnboy25 on 11/02/2015 13:47:18

Edited By Johnboy25 on 11/02/2015 13:48:06

Murry... The taper pin fits into a tapered hole - usually knocked in with a Dockyard Screwdriver!

John

Talking about Loctite and the like - I know the manufactures say there is a shelf life attached to this stuff but I've literally had loctite donkeys year that still perform as what is says on the label but am I fooling myself? Has anyone else had this experience of the product?

John

P.S. John - nice job as usual!

Edited By Johnboy25 on 10/02/2015 14:48:03

Edited By Johnboy25 on 10/02/2015 14:48:43

Hi Andrew.

I have an old Viceroy floor standing pillar drill that has been abused by means of numerous artistic drillings on the adjustable table. I don't have the facilities to preheat and fill in the dimples with weld but what I had thought about and I'm sure I'm going to hung out to dry on this 😉 ! - was to fill the drillings up with a hard epoxy then skim off to flatten it down to the original metal surface. I don't know if there is a suitable ITW Devcon product available which has metal  filler that would do the job. Just a thought😀

John

Edited By Johnboy25 on 04/02/2015 20:45:47

Ian... If you want a three pole toggle switch take look at the Arrow switch website. **LINK**#

John

Edited By Johnboy25 on 01/02/2015 17:42:50

Congrats... Nice piece of work. Certainly looks the part.

John

Matthew...

i belive the connectors are Anderson type connector. Try **LINK**

If do a search on eBay for Anderson connectors I think you will find what you want. The battery connections are as Michael has indicated. The other name for them are Spade connectors or Fast on.

John

Bob...

Any chance you could upload this to your Dropbox or somewhere where we could download load it? I've been after splash guard detail for my model A for some time. I'm sure I could adapt your drawing to suit my requirements.

John

Neil... "Apparently the 'swarf comes off like cobwebs'."

I was wondering if this is how steel wool or wire wool is produced. Just a thought... But seing the YouTube clips from Mr Pete with my limited experience, I found that useful to know. I've come across some materials that I could never get a satisfactory finish. I've learnt something useful today!

Regards

John

I too have consistently broken parting off tooling of various types over the years. I'm still on the Holy Grail to find the correct way to do this. Perhaps I'm not practicing enough! It certainly sorts the men from from boys! My friend who's a retired toolmaker wonders what all the troubles about - I'll just have to get him to give me a Master Class session.

John

Hi Chris... I get my safety spec from Vision Express. I have been using them for years as the guys who measures up does a great job with Varifocals. (Usual disclaimer). If you don't get any luck with that I could always cannibalise an old pair to try to remove the slide shield for you.

Regards

John

Moderator- pleas remove the last two repeat entries. Either finger trouble or bug in iPad app. John

Ahh... The joys of old age! This all sounds like we need some Omega 3 supplements or a healthy portion of fish in our diet. It's suppose to help brain function and helps with joints so it's told! (Usual disclaimer)

John

Hi Malc.

All the threads on my Boxford metric model A are BSW. I haven't found any BSF threads yet other than BA on the electrics but I've stripped all the old electrics out for new. So it's all BSW & BSF spammers for the dismantle.

Best of luck with your Boxford. I'm a keen advocate of Boxford lathes. Have you found the Boxford user group on Yahoo yet? It's worth a look.

Regards

John

Today I continued levelling my Bridgeport milling machine. (I had it a while and thought I'd better do this as I only roughly levelled it when I installed it sometime ago!) I been using a Starrett machine level - that needed a bit of tweeting to ensure it was reading correctly. That in itself took some fiddling to get it sorted. The mill has a base casting which is about 1/2" thick with no obvious points to sit it down on. But there is a notch in centre at the front where you can put a lever bar to assist raising it to get some packing under... After several attempts of raising and lowering and finally chasing my tail a few times, using the machine level and several pieces of packing used as shims, I manage to get as close as I could to level in both axises. Now that I've got it level I'll grout it using two part epoxy filler. This whole exercise has lead me to wonder if there is a better way to do this. Perhaps acquiring some suitable machine feet (the non compressible versions - if they exist!) with some jacking arrangement. I've got some ideas to be getting on with.

John

Chris & Neil. I agree the water component would be troublesome to say the least and that that acetone would deplete the water as it has has the natural tendency to adhere to the water molecules. (The chemistry deludes me!) It may be a case of several flushes to get the contamination out. I had a similar problem years ago with a water base contaminate mixed up in silicone oil used as a heating media. The answer there was to heat the silicon oil to about 150 deg C to boil the water out! But I don't think normal running with proper gearbox oil would get anywhere near 100 deg C to drive the water out without possible damage to oil seals and the like. Just a thought...

John

I'd be inclinded to use white spirit just as a flushing agent. A couple of flushes should do the trick. It's probably cheaper than flushing oil too.

John

Hi.. I suffer from a type of dyslexia which makes hard work of reading and understanding things not to mention writing emails and the like! Recently I've been struggling with understanding the gear ratios to get the right combination of stud gears on my metric gearbox and lead screw. I have researched various books and googled the subject. But by reading the example that JasonB has rendered up I'm please to say that the pennies dropped! Just by seeing this example has helped tremendously. It just goes to show how useful these forum are - thanks Jason for this contribution. It's help me greatly.

John

One of my favourites is "If it's that easy everybody would be doing it!" Origin unknown.

John