Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

Probably the many factories that make cheap toolholders for inserts , you usually get a set of inserts with a set cheap holders . In industry you could be making a part that costs many thousands of dollars and to ruin a job to save a few bucks on an insert would be idiotic . Top quality inserts have much better materials and quality control which gives piece of mind and better economy to the end user . Even with what we do( i feel )it is false economy to buy unbranded inserts as they just don’t last and usually give an inferior finish .

I usually hunt around on ebay for NOS inserts of a known brand , sometimes it is kyocera or mitsubishi and sometimes sandvik etc and the same goes for carbide milling cutters .

Thats my view on it anyways .

Edited By XD 351 on 27/11/2018 18:48:34

Wait until your new relatives come looking for you Ian!

Edited By XD 351 on 27/11/2018 18:49:05

Edited By XD 351 on 27/11/2018 18:49:36

I Didn’t know Elon musk had signed up for the forum! 🛸

I know it can be annoying when someone asks where can i get this or that from but doesn’t state what country they live in and it makes it impossible to help them , some people are fiercely private and don’t want others to know where they live or don’t want other forum members seeing that they live close by and start contacting them for meetups . All it takes is for the creator of the post to mention approximately where they are when they want to know where to buy stuff from etc and they are not going to get an answer if they don’t !

Got to be careful of those buggers here in OZ they might be plain clothes cops out to catch people texting on their phone while at the traffic lights !

I typically stick with the nano because i picked up a heap of them cheap off ebay , all have header pins so I either solder wires to the header pins or use a screw terminal shield . You can also buy the chip with the bootloader and build your own .

On page 68 it states “ ensure modules are properly insulted “ Now i have killed a few modules, tortured even more but never have i insulted one ! Don’t you jst love typos 😂

Damned good article though and a remote control z axis has got me thinking i really need one of those ! I will also be following the cam grinder article with much interest as well.

I used a pneumatic ram on mine with a small header can to allow for the difference in cylinder volume due to the piston rod . I eventually switched over to a larger header can with the pick up pipe submerged in hydraulic oil , it is just a re purposed fuel tank off a briggs horizontal engine mounted below the vise locking handle - its not pretty but it works well , i made a metering block that also serves as a pivot point for the ram .

I use a hydraulic press to force them to be friends .

As stated previously it sounds like there may be some damage to the tapers , clean both up and apply either some bearing blue , soot from a candle or draw a few lines along the taper with a permanent marker and put the two tapers together lightly and give them a twist and pull apart , look for where the marker pen or what ever you have used has been rubbed away and ideally it should be over the whole length of the taper . If there is any damage like severe scoring you may have to bin both and start again.

Well thats one way of clearing the shelves !

I found this one humorous ! 

https://youtu.be/e3n7ydQt140

Edited By XD 351 on 20/11/2018 17:01:10

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Edited By XD 351 on 20/11/2018 12:36:23

Thanks for your quick response Neil !

190 mm pulley ? Is that meant to be 90 mm ?

So you use the lever to lift the motor up and loosen the belt and leave the motor running ? I would also like a feature like that !

Old Thread i know ( sorry !) but as i’m doing a similar conversion or more of a modification to the current set up to my mini lathe i thought i would ask a few questions . The origional conversion i did still used the two speed gearing but recently i have started using this lathe more often the steel gears i fitted are whining thier teeth off and it is driving me insane ! I could use the majority of the set up i had but just use a longer belt to feed drive from the layshaft up to the spindle , this way i coud use a stepped pulley on the motor and layshaft to give either 1:1 or possibly 3:1 drive ratios but changing these over might be a fidget . I can also do the same as Neil has and run straight from motor to spindle with no reduction .

Motor is 0.75 kw @ (i think ) 1380 rpm .

Neil, now that this conversion has been in place for a few years how have you found the performance of the drive ratio you have now ? Do you feel it has impacted on low speed turning ? And if you had to do the conversion over again would you change anything ? One thing i really hate is the tumbler gear lever at the back so may change that also .

Ian.

It must be one hard chunk of cast iron to be destroying carbide tooling , i have seen some horrible stuff before like sash weights and barbell weights but carbide got through it . I wonder if the tool is set too high and rubbing ?

I have an under and over reamer set for this , two reamers per size - .001”over and one .001” under so you get a drive in fit on one side and a sliding fit on the other .

I don’t know strictly about model engineering or what most of us perceive it to be but hobby shops and the like are disappearing here in Australia and those that are left are doing it hard .

If you look at broad spectrum that the the words “Model Engineering “ covers the hobby is doing well , it has just spread out to cover things like the maker scene and the like . Maybe if my local ( soon to be closed ) hobby shop had moved with the times especially with internet sales and possibly getting into supplying the maker scene with gear they could have survived .

It just means you have to control it manually - pia i know but if your printer wasn’t made to have a heated bed there is little choice and it is always wiser to buy a printer with the feature just incase . I bought one of those cheap cnc engravers from China and wanted to add limit switches and after opening the box i found the break out board had the facilities for that but that area was unpopulated so i had to add 4 opto isolators and 8 resistors which added up to about $5 - i had the parts in stock so it really cost me nothing , i then checked the cable that connects the board to the machine and found it was missing th 5 wires needed to hook up 3 ends tops and a touch probe - another Job done for no cost. What i found odd is the 4th axis connectors are on the board ready to use if i buy a driver to run the steppers and a four pin plug to the case , i found this strange as they had skimped on a few dollars worth of parts but fitted the 4th axis break out board to a 3 axis machine . They must have to order that board and cable with the unpopulated end stop area and missing wires from the manufacturer specifically- surely the cost saving wouldn’t be worth it. I would have thought they would have sold the unit ready to go with the full breakout board minus the 4 th axis controller , the fully wired cable and limit switches and then had them listed as upgrades .

Even if the printer controller doesn’t have any circuitry for the heated bed one could be cobbled together easily enough enough and probably be better than what is on most printers as well !

I have a geeetech which is a prusa copy but they have fixed a lot of the issues the origional prusa had like cable ties holding the bearings etc although they still use threaded rod to hold the base together . I went the aluminium unit and added a few modifications of my own . There is another thread about 3D printers that has some photos of the mods and i have made a few more since then .

You will find that all printers have their good and bad points and the closer you get to the cheap end of town the more problems you will find .

This will make you think about recycling .

https://youtu.be/3IPqgy2K8RI