Member postings for MadMike

Lots of great solutions here but why not simply buy and use a height gauge to hold the clock/DTI? Or did I just scan the topic too quickly and miss something fundamental. If all you really want to do is make the stand that you described as a test of your own competence etc then I can understand the initial questions, however if you want to simply get on with with other machining then buy a ready made height gauge with a DRO fitted.

Perhaps it is just a matter of terminology, but we do not have NHS Covid Passports in England. So I guess the question I should ask is really what form were you filling in and why?

As usual a lot of great ideas about how to go about chamfering these plates. However nobody has asked a very fundamental question, unless I have missed it in which case please ignore this message, but just what equipment has the original poster got access to?

Milling can of course be carried out on a lathe, and a small mill is more than capable of producing this small chamfer. A vice with a wooden fixture tilted at 45 degrees as somebody suggested is a simple solution that would work on a lathe or a mill. This is a classic case of offering solutions with insufficient information. Come on guys if you want to be engineers, you have to think and act like engineers.

So in summary mr original poster........what exaxctly have you got in the way of machines etc?

Diogenes etc the bike you describe sounds like the one designed and built by a chap called Bob Collet. He lives in Leicestershire and designs and builds his own engines including sleeve valve 2 stroke diesels. He is a very talented engineer and the work is usually carried out in his workshop at the bottom of his garden.

Info for peak4 and Brian Wood.

Bill, the dealer that I bought from has the ebay name, matyebeb. the parcel dispatch was from Dunstable.

Brian the jaws are inded hard.

Oh dear I am sure that I explained my actions simply. However, let me clarify things for you: -

(1) The chuck is a 200mm independent four jaw chuck.

(2) The initial "static" test was to determine the accuracy of the chuck during the setting up process, and to determine that there were no strange results occuring due to any mechanical faults with the chuck.

(3) The cutting test was to determine that the chuck produced the accuracy I expected/wanted under load.

(4) The chuck performed exactly as I wanted.

(5) What have I written to tell you. Well following on from the lack of any detailed personal experiences when I raised the question of the quality of the San Ou chucks I thought that it might be useful for other "engineers", real or perceived, if they are considering such a purchase. After all £87.26 including VAT and delivery might be considered expensive by some, whereas I wanted to determine whether such a low cost product was worth purchasing. It is most certainly great value at the price.

My conclusion after all this? Well after those replies I wouldn't bother again.

Edit: I have just seen Clives response. Thank you for explaining that for those that clearly did not understand what was going on. I assumed, wrongly that they would understand what was intended......I was wrong about their powers of understanding. You are of course NOT included in my reference to "those replies".

Edited By MadMike on 22/07/2021 09:28:45

You may recall that last week i sought opinions on the San Ou Independent 4 Jaw Chuck for my Myford 254S.

Well having got fed up with looking for a D1-3 mounted chuck, I decided to buy the San Ou K72-200 chuck. So here is what the guys in the NCIS TV series call a Sitrep (I know nobody except me watches it. LOL)

Order placed via Ebay very late on Sunday. By late I mean about 11:40pm.

Order acknowledged almost instantly

Monday I received a text and e-mail to tell me that the chuck would be delivered pm on Wednesday.

At 12:45 today, Wednesday the nice Royal mail man arrived, warned me that it was heavy and insisted upon taking into my garage for me.

So the package was well presented. Upon opening I determined that it was packed in a heavy duty purpose made box. The chuck was fitted into a pair of purpose made poystyrene mouldings within the box and was wrapped in an oiled paper material. the chuck key and 4 M10 capscrews were also within the packing.

Now for the chuck itself.......Well the ebay photo's all look like studio shots which make the chuck look shiny and well finished. They do not lie. it is frankly a lovely looking product. Dimensionally It is precisely the sizes shown on their data sheet which appears on most sites selling the chucks. Of major concern of course was the recess in the back face which is critical for centralising the chuck body on the back plate register. It was within .002 of the size on their data sheet. There were no burrs or sharp/ragged edges anywhere on the chuck body, jaws or the tightening screws.

I turned the back plate, bought from Chronos and also a very well made product, and fitted the chuck.You can't see the join....LOL.

Now the acid test. I put a 2 inch diameter steel in the jaws and then adjusted it until it was central on the spindle axis and then put a DTI on it and rotated the chuck. At a distance of 2.5 inches from the chuck face there was a deviation of .003 inch in the dial needle. Then I reduced the diameter of the steel with a roughing cut of .080 inch followed by a finishing cut of .005 inch. This time no run out was recorded.

My conclusion? Well time will tell but at a mere £87.26 including VAT and delivery I am both impressed and delighted in equal measure.

Sorry to have taken so much space but I hope that this will prove useful to anybody contemplating buying this product.

Good afternoon. This is a first for me, asking for opinion on here regarding a product. I wonder if I can ask for peoples experiences with a San Ou Independent 4 Jaw Chuck.

I am debating buying a San Ou K72 800dia independent 4 jaw chuck. I have a D1-3 backing plate to mount it on.

I am more than able to use my lathe etc but I have never bought a San Ou chuck and wondered if anybody on here has one and what its quality is like, hence my request.

In an ideal world I would simply buy a D1-3 4 jaw chuck, but they are not commonplace and I want to get on with a specific job which requires such a chuck..............unless somebody has a 200mm D1-3 independent 4 jaw chuck at a good price. I can for instance get such a chuck for sub £90 on the bay and delivery is 2-3 days, all of which sounds like a bargain.

Thanks in advance.

A couple of points regarding the use of stailless steel and aluminium if I may.

There is a theoretical risk of corrosion occurring due to the reaction caused when using dissimilar metals. This is easily solved by applying Copper seal to the threads.

No doubt you have all seen those large glazed facades on offices, shops and shopping malls, plus all of those glazed roofs roofs on many commercial buildings. Well, as somebody who was involved in manufacturing and installing many such projects, I can tell you that without exception the corner joints, fixings and component fasteners are just about 99% stainless steel screwed into the aluminium extrusions which themselves have screw ports extruded into the profiles. I am not aware of any such assemblies failing due to the mix of stainless and aluminium.

Remember also that many boats are aluminium hulled and their fasteners and even the topside fittings are very commonly also stainless steel. Again I know of no failures due to this.

I use stainless steel fasteners on all exposed areas of my restored motorbikes and into the aluminium engine casings and once again no failures in almost 60 years. I hope this helps in this debate.

Stuart, where are you located. With luck somebody is close at hand and could help you with this problem. For instance if you are in the East Midlands you are invited to come and see me and I can show you the way in which parting off can be done. I do a lot with stainless steel which would possibly alarm some. Oh yes and I never cut off with a hacksaw.

I have a 254S, and yes it has a D1-3 chuck mounting. It is truly a great way to fit and change chucks. I am currently looking for a 200mm, D1-3, Independent 4 Jaw Chuck. I can get a 150mm one but the 200mm ones tend to have a D1-4 mounting which is not compatible with a D1-3.. Burnerd and Bison D1-3's are available for too many hundred pounds, for what is going to be a single project/batch of parts. I continue my search and there was one on ebay last week, but it had been wrongly described and was again a D1-4. So as I do have a 200mm D1-3 back plate from Chronos, I intend to buy a 200mm front fix chuck. Turn a register on the faceplate and mount a Chinese 200mm chuck on it. Problem will be solved.........unless somebody has a 200mm D1-3 Independent 4 Jaw Chuck they are willing to sell to me.

Ebay has plenty of 4BA nut spinners. However if you have hex heads that do not conform then check that you have a genuine BA bolt. You may find that some of todays suppliers fo bolts are using a more readily available metric or Imperial A/F hexagon bar. I have 4BA open ended, ring and box spanners and they all are perfect fits on genuine 4BA hex heads. If you find nut spinners do not fit then try a long reach box spanner which will probably be 4BA one end and 2 BA the other.

BA threads are originally based on the Swiss or Thury thread with a thread included angle of 47 degrees and 30 minutes. Thus the thread depth is less that the 55 degree Whitworth thread form. HTH.

Mike Poole is absolutely spot on. I struggle to believe that so much has been written here about backplates, grinding jaws etc on a three jaw chuck.

When yo turn something in your three jaw chuck does it produce correct size concentricity, straightness etc? If it does then you are doing fine.

Having part turned your piece, turning it in a three jaw chuck is a totally pointless exercise. You have no chance of the second end running true to match the first turned end. So either use a collet on both ends, mount the piece between centres, turn the piece complete and merely part it off leaving a simple facing operation to finish, or if real accuracy is not required bore out a set of soft jaws to accept the first turned end. Yes you could turn the part and mount it in a four jaw chuck but the methods I have describes are more consistent. HTH. Happy turning.

As Jason pointed out the core diameter will present problems in cuttink an 8TPI Acme thread. Even with your depth o.050 the core is still only .056 diameter.

Rob if you haven't used a lathe before you are welcome to visit me and we can go through some basics to start you on the long road to lathe madness. LOL.

I am in Narborough.

Like others on here I have also looked at the lighting in my garage/workshop. I originally had 6 x 8 foot fluorescent tubes, plus 4 foot tubes over the bench and the lathe.

I opted for six 600 x 600mm LED light panels suspended on catenary cables. The difference is frankly outstanding. I now use my bench, lathe and mill without the small local lights. I can also rebuild my bikes without using any additional free standing lighting. In order to get the best efect for working I opted for Cold White panels.

After the change, some 3 years ago I have not needed to replace any panels and they are also effective during bright summer days. The panels are really as cheap as chips on ebay, and I would not even consider strip lights regardless of type.

Colin I think you are almost correct, however, and I am surprised that nobody has mentioned it, studs should ideally have two different thread pitches. The coarse one going into the casting or other major component. the end that accepts the nut should be a fine pitch thread e.g. BSW thread into a casting and BSF for the nut. This allows the stud to be secured into, say a casting and tightened down. When the nut is fitted this arrangement allows the fine thread to become the one that applies tightening torque and clamping pressure. So far so good, however when it becomes necessary to dismantle the assembly the differing thread piches will seldom operate together, which allows the nut to be removed without loosening the stud in a casting. Anybody who has ever dismantled a British motorbike will know that in 99% of cases undoing the cylinder head nuts does not loosen the studs.

Well I have read and re-read this entire thread. What machine are you turning the riser on? Is it a new and calibrated tool room lathe? Or a Chinese hobby lathe or maybe a Myford?

Before all the discussion about concave faces, turning between centres etc etc it would be reasonable to ask if the face plate to which the riser was bolted has been clocked to determine if it has no run out. Then of course the inevitable question has been missed.........just how accurate do you expect it to be and what tolerences are you working to?

I am amazed that as "engineers" nobody has even attempted to get to the bottom of the component tolerancing and the machine and even the machinists capability.

All the general rules about projection from the chuck are OK, but frankly are not the real answer here,

We need more information.

What is the length of the piece of stock you are intending to turn?

Will there be larger diameters on the finished item?

Depending upon the answer to the last question, why are using 9.5mm bar to produce 4mm? Why not start with 5 or 6mm stock?

How accurate do you need to be?

All things being equal why not simply centre drill each end and mount the piece os stock between centres and use a travelling steady?

I suggest that the "stay" is actually designed to stop the door opening past 90 degrees to thus prevent the door/farme/hinges becoming damaged. I am not aware of a "stay" designed for a full size door which is designed to hold the door at any fixed position between closed and the 90 degree position. A skiding block as described can only work in one position.......fully opened. Having sufficient friction to resist wind pressure, or allow easy opening/closing on a sliding stay is just about impossible. Again I suggest that the renedy should be provided by the suppliers. After all AJW when you asked for "stays" did you agree exactly what the fitting was supposed to achieve. the sliding device you have described is a stay designed to hold the door at 90 degrees.

Incidentally the multiple position "restrictor stay" suggested earlier is designed for windows, and nor full size doors. It will give a retricted opening of probably not much more that 100-150 mm for ventilation without jeopardising security.

Edited By MadMike on 12/08/2020 22:47:21