Member postings for peak4

Mark, the first and second photos you show are of different collet/chuck systems.

The former is a "Type B"; note the cross cut in the end. It's complete, not requiring another sleeve.

I have one on the desk in front of me as I'm tying this, but with a 1/4" collet.

The taper end of the collet is threaded and will accept a 1/4" Clarkson Autolock type endmill, so I assume the one Keith is/was selling will be correctly threaded for a 1" end mill.

I bought mine as part of a job lot, and just have the one body and collet; immediately after taking delivery I was browsing ebay and found a couple more collets for sale, but I didn't bid on them, as I've no current use for another holder, all my stuff is MT2; I've 3 working collet chucks in the right size anyway, plus a couple of compatible larger bodies ready to go if required.

From what I can see, all posts after your very first one, have gone off at a tangent, and are discussing a different system entirely, albeit from the same manufacturer. The only other direct similarity is the square nut on the end.

Unlike the Clarkson and similar, there is no obvious pip in the end of the body, for the mill to centre on, just a plain machined face with a very small hole in it. I'm not sure if that hole was for the original machining operation, or if there is a removable/replaceable pointed insert, which in missing in my example.

I can come up with detailed photos and measurements later, but I'm off out for the day after this coffee.

Bill

That's what I normally do, it also has the advantage of leaving you with some spare embryo rings for the next project.

Bill

p.s. as a new post since I can't edit the previous, I could probably come up with an internal micrometer, or a height gauge and surface plate, depending on exactly where you need to take measurements.

Bill

Rainbows, I however now live in Buxton,which is a wee bit closer to Mac.

I also recently bought a 24" vernier calliper of reasonable quality; that's manual reading vernier, as opposed to new fangled digital electronic stuff.

Drop me a PM for the address and pop over for a brew sometime.

Regards Bill

Sean, have you seen this on ebay??

**LINK**

Might save a lot of work if you can come up with the cash.

Bill

NDIY, just been unsuccessfully looking for the above list, could you give me a pointer as to where I might find it please?

Sean, my thoughts would be along the lines of the jack, cut down suitably, as much of the work would already be done for you in terms of castings etc.

It's very similar in principal to the design of the mechanism on the 2B I have. I could find you the diagram if it helps.  looks like the cross section diagram is in the manual linked to above.

The original bellows that protected the screw from swarf desintigrated on mine allowing the thrust bearing to get damaged by the ingress of metal chips.

My replacement bellows came from an old shock absorber sleeve, very similar to the corrugated rubber sleeves used on motorcycle from forks.

Edited By peak4 on 04/09/2017 10:16:01

They're all over in Sheffield at the moment, but as I recall, are all Bosch.

A fair old setup, which may well be for sale eventually, when I re-unite all the bits and get them cleaned up.

I can't remember the full list, but roughly;

small & large drills, small and large angle grinders, straight grinder, rock drill & compressor, small breaker, large road breaker, submersible pump & 2" layflat hoses, circular saw. I think that's about it, apart from the 5KVA generator. (I'm missing the chainsaw, which would originally been part of the kit)

Unfortunately the genny, and some tools are rather inaccessible at the moment, as they are on loan to a friend for a building project, but last week the house collapsed around them.

Bill

Is anyone aware of any solid state inverters which will stand a switched load? (i.e. on/off switching at the load, rather than via the inverter control panel.)

I have some 220v 3 phase 400hz ex-military power tools, which normally run of their own dedicated 2 stroke generator.

It could be useful to be able to run them from a normal 50hz mains supply when I don't want the size and noise of a big generator disturbing the neighbours.

Thanks

Bill

A fine beast, I've just finished putting one on the road myself.

Had me fooled for a while as I didn't realise it should cut on the push stroke.

Bill

Along similar lines, I've just had the need to remove some sawn off woodscrews in plastic plugs, from a sandstone door jamb. I didn't want the screws to rust heavily, expand, and crack the stonework.

My solution was a section of military radio aerial, with roughly files teeth in the end; a bit like the aforementioned rawlbolt idea.

Tank radio aerials are made from thin wall, copper plated, spring steel tubing, so ideal as fine core bits.

Drilled down the plastic plugs, between the screw stubs and the stone, leaving a clean hole and a metal filled plastic plug.

Next job is to drill myself some fine stone dust and mix it with epoxy as a coloured filler.

I was given a bare 40mm box frame, effectively 4 legs going up to a pair of parallel 40mm box bars, which presumably at one time, would have held a wooden top.

It's actually very versatile left without the worktop, as I've a selection of short bits of Unistrut and associated brackets.

Since I have limited space, I've effectively got a big boys Meccano skeleton bench, to which I can attach a metal plate as an anvil, a flypress, a big vice, hydraulic ram, etc.

Chronos would be a start **LINK**

What make of carb is it?

Bill

Joe and John, looks to be the same principle;

**LINK**

See also the following "Tubal Cain" video, but note that the Buck chuck he's showing has 4 adjusting screws, whereas the GripTru has 3.

For those who aren't aware, this is a different Tubal Cain to the one who sometimes features in literature this side of the pond (AKA Tom Walshaw).
It's a pen-name adopted by both folks from the son of Lamech ;

https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/tubal-cain

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 14/07/2017 08:40:27

Edited By peak4 on 14/07/2017 08:44:58

Edited By peak4 on 14/07/2017 08:51:10

I don't know if they work in a similar fashion to the GripTru, but this article and the two embedded links are worth looking at.

**LINK**

Also, if you have, or can get access to , a copy of George Thomas' "The Model Engineer's Workshop Manual", you will find a good explanation on P280/281.

I'm not sure about reproducing it here for copyright reasons.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 13/07/2017 16:20:46

Never used Moglice, but "Belzona" might be worth investigating.

It's another epoxy/metal mix designed for sliding surfaces, such as building up rotating shafts or hydraulic rams.

The trouble might be getting it in small enough quantities, so it might be worthwhile contacting the makers to see if they export to anyone else in your neck of the woods, and approaching them with a couple of 35mm film containers.

It's often used for building up shafts on big machines, think quarries/mines etc.

Good Luck

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 13/07/2017 16:00:30

It is indeed an adjustable stop, or rather a pair of them. I your case they are to limit cross slide movement, by adjusting to hit the vertical peg in the centre above the cross slide screw.
If you had power cross feed, one could be set to disengage it at a suitable point after the cut has finished.

N.B. on my 2B, I've found that it disengages the half nut operating lever fine, but there's enough friction, when the half nut is engaged in the turning leadscrew, that it stays engaged and the table keeps moving.

If you don't have a clock gauge, how about chucking a good piece of bar in the 3 jaw, or even better turn a bar parallel between centres. Then clamp the base end of an engineer's square in the machine vice at centre height, offer the blade up against the captive bar, and nip up the clamping bolts when it's parallel.

No1, I wonder if it's either a pointed pein hammer for knocking nails just below the surface of plasterboard, or is actually a handled punch for a similar job. The latter would explain the damage to the "Striking face", presumably left soft, so as not to damage the hammer used against it.

No 2 is a Saw Set, sometimes known as a Saw Wrest

See Google Images

I reckon No3 might just be a cheap drill that "bit" as it broke through, thus corkscrewing (or in this case, un-corkscrewing)

No4 may well have been used for drilling tapered clearance holed for woodscrews.

Bill

Unless you can find someone, like Brian, with a spare one, it's probably going to cost you a tenner by the time you've paid the postage.

This one on ebay with slots from 1/16- 1/2 in 1/64ths is only £13.80 delivered; the trouble is, that it's already full of drills, so it still leaves you with the same issue.

Indeed, I believe you are obliged to do so, with a formal letter before action.

A free certificate of posting (1st Class) from the post office will suffice, rather than special delivery, as the interpretations act will apply and it is up to the recipient top rebutt delivery. It may even be advantagious to do it this way, as the recipient then doesn't get the option of refusing delivery.

Must be by post though; as it stands at the moment, you still don't know if CVS have even received your emails as a reminder about the recorded delivery item.

Bill