Member postings for peak4

Alternatively, thinking outside the box slightly, you can get carbide tipped blades for oscillating multitools

If you can get in with a straight rather than angle grinder, and have an air supply, try doing a search for air cutoff saw, such as this one from Machine Mart, though there are many cheaper ones available off ebay.

Edited By peak4 on 17/08/2016 21:59:06

Edited By peak4 on 17/08/2016 21:59:22

i.e. a non-EP oil, which seem reasonable as the worm and wheel gearbox isn't hypoid.

Millers Oils supply such stuff for classic vehicles; I believe Castrol do as well, and I'm sure there will be others.

This is an excerpt from the Superwinch Husky manual, a winch often fitted to Landrovers etc. which contains a large bronze wormwheel.

Arctic -13°c to 15°c SAE 90 Oil

Temperate -16°c to 29°c SAE 85 / 140 Oil

Tropical 19°c to 43°c SAE 140 Oil

Note: EP (Extreme Pressure) additives can damage copper based alloys like phosphor bronze used for the worm gear and we do not recommend their use in the worm gearbox. If any doubt exists, consult your lubricant supplier’s technical department.

Edited By peak4 on 09/08/2016 12:11:00

Edited By peak4 on 09/08/2016 12:11:13

Edited By peak4 on 09/08/2016 12:12:14

Again, I'd suggest looking for an Achromatic lens, likely with 2 elements. I've had decent results on m4/3s with the Sigma variety. Note that not all Sigma close up lenses are achromats.

This one is listed as UK delivery, but you could ask if he'd post to your part of the world.

On the other hand, if the lens is a plain C mount, would it be possible to add an extension tube between it and the camera body?

Edited By peak4 on 29/07/2016 12:49:17

I did wonder about contacting a local steel erector, s that's the sort of size that might be used to bolt single post columns into their concrete plinths. I suspect though, that they would be metric for terms of cost.

You could try Willams Fasteners of Sheffield. They certainly used to do big stuff at their previous premises.

If not, they would probably make to order, though I dread to think the cost.

On a similar job I used a slitting abrasive disk in a dremmel type tool. I cut straight across the top of the stud, slotting into the parent metal on both sides until I'd got enough depth in the broken stud. A conventional flat bladed screwdriver then extracted the stud.

In your case, I wonder if it was loctited in though, in which case some heat may be advantageous before unscrewing to prevent opening out the end of the stud to make it even tighter in the hole.

I've done something similar to the above, but lacking a small rotating centre, I ground a conical end on a broken carbide centre drill. I then mounted this in a 1/2" bar and clamped it in the boring head.

David, and Martin, you are both quite correct of course; I'd assumed, perhaps wrongly, that since only one was required, that the load would be more or less axial.

I can remember when I was more involved with motorsports vehicle recovery; I wrote a piece about exactly this topic, as folks often used them for winch hook anchor points on their Landrovers, when using a snatch block on the load.

Edited By peak4 on 09/07/2016 09:43:56

Or try a local electric motor re-winders; They're sometimes known as dynamo eyebolts for a reason.

p.s. Which part of Crete are you heading for? I'm quite envious of being able to get Cretan Raki on tap; the honey one particularly.

Just going by your "About Me" bit on the forum, I'm assuming you will struggle to get BSW stuff in France.

This Ad on ebay is listing a couple, so you could ask if he'd split one off for you, but they're not expensive new.

If you have a friend in the UK to post it to you Speedy Hire do them for less than a tenner plus vat

Edited By peak4 on 08/07/2016 22:11:59

I used to use the de-Walt one at work before I retired. Something of a beast, it coUfortably cut through anything I used it for, so long as the blade was sharp, but replacements aren't cheap. Also I'd recommend both a coarse and a fine blade to make the best of it. We used the fine blade on Unistrut and the like, and the coarse blade on thicker angle iron; 2"x3"x1/4". unofficially I may have used it at home occasionally on up to 2" round steel bar, or 3"x2" continuous cast iron bar..

No sparks, but lots of very hot steel chips everywhere, tempered to blue.

Whatever you get, make sure it's up to full speed before a cut and feed in gently if you want the teeth to remain on the saw blade. Invest in full goggles, rather than safety specs and also proper ear defenders.

Not only that, it's a Clarke, so bide your time and wait for one of the VAT free offers.

Well, everything's relative, and inside a phone book is probably the cleanest thing in my workshop.

Well barring a cup of tea anyway, and even then only the top half, especially if I've been angle grinding.

I've been searching the local charity shops for one of those pottery imitation beer steins with the pewter lid for ages,but can't seem to find one anywhere round our way.

A copy of last years phone book or yellow pages.

Put it on the bench when you need a clean dust free surface, such as re-building car brake cylinders etc. When it gets dirty, pull the page out and go onto the next one.

Also useful when filling a bearing with grease, no need to clean up afterwards, just throw the page away and move on.

Spare clean pages also useful for putting under stuff on the milling table to save it sliding round.

Or even a thread on here

**LINK**

Clearly you could make a sheath knife of some variety; There's lots of tutorials on utube amongst others. However with the state of UK knife laws as they are, something smaller, folding, and non locking might be more appropriate.

Whilst Michael Morris friction folders are commercially available, I quite fancy a go at something similar when I get the new workshop set up.

I've never tried it myself, but I guess, depending on clearance, one could put a strap wrench round the bull wheel.

This might spread the load out a bit.

Personally, I've gone down the route of engaging the clutch, and spinning the belt by hand. If a suitable length of wood is stood on end on the lathe bed, a jaw will catch it and the inertia of the gear train and motor has always freed off a stuck Myford chuck; just remember to do it in the correct direction.

Might be an idea to drill a small hole through the spacer material, otherwise it could become convex/concave depending on the change in air pressure/temperature.

I had a unit, much larger I admit, which showed Newton's rings when it was high pressure and cold enough.

Edited By peak4 on 18/06/2016 22:06:20

Thanks Bjorn, much appreciated.

For some reason, your Potts album wasn't showing previously. I may have been too quick off the mark and tried to view it whilst you were still uploading it.

The link in your earlier post now works fine. 

I'll have another go at making a detent later on and see how I go.

All the best

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 18/06/2016 15:12:49

Edited By peak4 on 18/06/2016 15:13:40

Thanks Bjorn, much appreciated. I remembered I has an account with that forum and re-set my password.

Pretty much the same as my original one, but I was finding that the spring steel detent on mine was catching on the core of the flute on small drills, if the detent was long enough to set 13mm ones.

Can't get your link to work yet, maybe it's still uploading.

Cheers

Bill