Member postings for Bazyle

Looks like a good system Huub.
Another easy one is to think of the periphery of a circular grinding wheel. If the top of the tool is exactly on centre the contact point will be at 90 degrees. But if you raise it up a bit the curvature means it will be at an angle. A bit of calculation, or drawing will let you know the height/angle combinations. Then all you need is a block of wiid and some thin strips to pack it up.

There is also a version of the G.Meek screwcutting clutch for the BH600 somewhere.

When the air is warm it is able to hold more moisture. Having drawn it into your workshop when it cools down it will drop it's excess moisture.

It is a surface planer, possibly experimental adaptation for metal of the form used in drilling machines for wood. They are not very good for wood.

The centre of gravity of a lot of lathes is about where the chuck is. If slinging round the bed (full turn INSIDE the leadscrew by the way) remove the chuck and thread a bit of rope through the spindle and use it to pull the the strop up to the head so it can't accidentally slide down the bed. With any luck then the lathe will be tailstock down and a light rope to the crane hook will set it horizontal.

Surprise ! the UK is damp in winter (and most of summer).

If you make holes in a shed it will be damp. Best thing is to seal it up and just open the door after very frosty nights when the air will be dry and really hot days in summer. You especially don't want to open the door on a day when it has changed from cold to feeling warm because a wet warm front has moved over the country.

Just on Friday at an EDMES meeting one member told me he couldn't get a calor refill because they had no small cylinders - bit of a run on them due to people perhaps cooking on gas to save electricity. He had to get a 19kg one to exchange.

I was just wondering today when electricity started its journey to becoming essential for normal life. Particularly in relation to the telephone and in my village. Although the electricity and phone lines march up the lane on the same poles for some reason at the edge of my garden they diverge and come in on different sides necessitating two poles one each side. So which came first and why diverge at this point? The electricity people trim the trees their side but the phone line used them as support - until Eunice. So currently no wire and using a BT supplied mobile minihub. We didn't get piped water until the '30s so imagine electricity came later, but would people have installed a phone while still reading by oil lamp?

Er, i know lots of people like the topslide parallel but that's not what it is for. Lots of early lathes didn't have one so it was added to enable tapers etc, You should be able to set it over and leave it there, except for the infernal nuisance of Whitworth and BA being different from unified and metric.

Get your priorities right. Make your outhouse a bedroom and use your bedroom as a workshop. If you have a partner make bunk beds The space is after all bigger than a camper van. Apart from kings and lords the separate bedroom is a recent invention of the affluent.

Aren't clubs fantastic. Your experience at Bournemouth saved you from blacking out while driving and probable death.

You will make some great friends if you try out our local club either by contacting them through their website or perhaps turning up at one of their advertised meetings or open days. Ask to speak to a committee member as if you just pick a random person they too might be a visitor, or with clubs being very inclusive places the person might have communication issues.
Importantly you don't need to have built anything or ever used a lathe to go along. Lots of the members of both my clubs just like having a chat with like minded sort of technically oriented people. You will find from my experience that once you get into it you can also confidently go along to other model engineering clubs round the world and feel at home.
Oh and don't get drawn into the "they're only interested in locos" rubbish. This is NEVER true it is just they have to do public rides to earn the money to pay for the club meeting room and insurance. If you think the membership fee covers that think again it is usually about one third or less of club running costs.

The Elliott one shown on a recent thread was intended for that size machine (Elliott equivalent) but does not tilt.

Ah, that explains why I couldn't find it. If it helps any I can offer transport to region of Reading or St Albans if you could get it to the Exeter club. I will also mention it to the EDMES club members at the meeting on Friday.

The Men's Shed get given a lotof tools that need new handles. Nowadays it is cheaper to buy a complete new tool.

As for using hickory, surely that;s only in America and ash is the norm in the UK.

Parents may or may not recognise the effects of names they choose for their children. The composer Vincent Knight named his daughter Stella and not shying away from it she deliberately lives in Knightsbridge. However a colleague at work named Peter whose surname began with E perpetuated the schooldays pain by calling his son Paul.

The individual metal elements of the old ones were thin so if not on the skyline but seen with a backgouund of trees they blend in better. The driving force behind them is probably lifecycle costs. The metal ones have to be painted regularly which is a very manual and expensive process.

Keep it loose, it is the trapped air in it that does the business.

Note this is ventilation for the inside surface of the metal skin only NOT the whole shed. If possible use plastic sheet to make the inside surface of the insulation as airtight as possible and use a dehumidifier to remove the moisture you breathe out.

When you have a taper pin through both a collar and shaft obviously the thick end of both has to be on the same side and a smooth taper all the way through. I think your previous owner in messing about got the shaft hole 180 out of line so the pin didn't go in. You should try to get a new pin. taper pins all should have the same rate of taper, just different thickness so you should be able to get one. I think the Eastern Block countries did follow international convention on this while far eastern can be a bit more hit and miss.
If the bodging has messed up the hole you might be better off drilling a new hole at 90 degrees just be careful as you break through the existing hole. Plug that hole with a bit of mild steel before drilling so there isn't a hole if possible. You don't have to use a taper pin as that would need a taper reamer too. Instead use a roll pin - yes I know shock horror but it is the most sensible solution for an amateur.

Unless you use the premade sandwich panels sealed with metal on the inside too, ie 100% waterproof you will get condensation on the inside of the metal. You then have to follow 'cold roof' techniques. That is try and stop the moisture from the inside migrating out using a vapour barrier but then have a well ventilated gap on the inside of the outer metal shell so that it doesn't sit there and make the insulation wet.