Member postings for Bazyle

Well I agree with SOD except to mention you always take it off the large pulley first. However teh setup does look a bit odd as one usually have the cone of pulleys going in opposite directions so the large is in line with the small on the other one. Also very odd to have the motor small pulley hidden like that. I suspect a previous owner made some modifications or if it as per manual the designer needs shooting.

Perhaps the op has expressed his problem in too simple a manner for us to understand his dilemma. Maybe he has a to make a component with a taper expressed as say 20 thou per foot and his mill is all metric so he just can't get his head around how to set it up.

About 30 years ago I visited LALS the Los Angeles Live Steamers just the other side of the hill from the famous Hollywood sign and they were mostly if not all running on gas for fire safety and probably coal not being much in evidence in their climate. It is not for aesthetics that the loco chimneys in wild west movies were an inverted bell and the tender piled high with wood not coal.

Off topic but anyone reminded of an episode of a detective series in which the murder weapon, an aluminium crutch, was turned to swarf on the Myford the weird murderer had in his living room. The scriptwriter obviously had something against model engineers.

One might even do a straw poll. How many of you actually read the instructions for Meccano models - "insert axle into trunnion and tighten screw with screwdriver"? I just looked at the picture and built it.
I can't understand people who need to be told to drill a hole when the picture clearly shows a hole, likewise the people who ask for detailed drawings (with tolerances as per BS1234 of course) for said plate with hole when the photo caption could just say "1/4 in hole half inch from end".

TImes when 'photos' are over the top are those silly youtube videos "you won't believe this incredible tool" taking half an hour to show every hole drilled but only a microsecond of the finished product which is all I needed to know.

A frequency of one meg is not exactly fast by today's standards. The C3s are to stop the op amp bursting into oscillation and though they will turn the input pulse into a spike that is the aim of the thing anyway. You can get some big electrolytics with a fast frequency response - look for ones with a high ripple rating. I think a 1uf tantalum bead will do and maybe give it a further .1 ceramic too. The extra diode is to protect T1 from reverse polarity from any inductive elements - probably found necessary the hard way.

Note the one currently in Lidl is not the same as the one that started this long thread off. At least not in my local lidl.

The biggest worry around small gauge locos which are frequently gas fired is people understanding the difference in pressure of butane and propane. A home made gas tank intended and tested for butane might not have been designed for the much higher pressures of propane which is fine until someone tries one of the 'better' mixed gas products (ie mix of propane and butane) that don't even tell you the proportions of each.

As Chas says - use the right product. There are filaments designed for the lost wax process but cost twice as much so if you just use PLA you may waste your time as it doesn't burn out so well. Less critical on full size than a 1/24 model.
Next problem is surface finish on FDM which can be rough so for 'conventional' mould making the sand sticks to it. Just like you can't make a pattern out of raw chipboard you have to clean it up and provide a smooth surface. Again less of a problem on a full size loco wheel than a Gauge 1 one.

FDM printing isn't designed for making watch parts so don't expect fine details on your 00 scale wagon. If you want to count the rivets use resin as the process is based on mobile phone screen pixel size - about 2 thou square. But you don't therefore do everything with resin to get detail when not needed as it can be slower.

Horses for courses. (and it is Cheltenham race week after all)

Any chance of a pointer to a forum already using this software? The new version of HSM has a couple of annoying features which clearly show the software was developed by 12yr olds who didn't actually have enough brain cells to bother actually testing it..

One of the traps is thinking that the reason a 63 works is because it is close to half 127 however when it appears in the train it is as a driver not a driven gear as the 127 is.
Note that 63 is just 3x21 so there is a link based on the way they introduce the primes 3 & 7. It's one of those maths things that the more different primes you can get into the mix the better your approximation. If you follow one of the links given earlier you will see a post I made listing the methods some major makers had used - not their use of primes like 11, 13 & 19 getting them a good result.

I remember 45 years ago defining a metal was one of the questions I was asked in my interview with The Welding Institute. They pitched it as 'We have sent you as the expert witness to a court and teh opposition lawyer asks you ....". Well they would have been pretty poor as a source of experts if the bets they could come up with is to send an undergraduate on such a job. Anyway I ended up better off giving up metallurgy for electronics.

You have all the gears you need for all normal imperial threads using 4 wheels in the train, sometimes as an idler.
38 is used for 19 and 38 tpi which are for plumbers.
BA and metric are a little more difficult. The 32 may help here.
If you can get 6 wheels in the train then you can do adequate metric threads for nuts and bolts.

If you can send me a PM with your email I can send you a spreadsheet for imperial and metric but at the moment I can't find the one for BA.

It is probably rivetted together so half of them will drill out ok but the other half will spin. So you will need to get at the other side to hold them though I guess you would have stripped the inside anyway.

I think you would be better off finding a not too old tin garage someone wants to be taken apart and removed. They are held together by selftapping screws typically which will cam out the screwdriver but you can get at the inside to undo them with mole grips.

Superb workshop.
One of the members of EDMES was a professional recorder maker and needed his engineering skills (having been a machinist) to make the unique tooling required for his craft.

In the end they are normally approximated by parts of circles. Therefore you could draw one BIG and reduce it in a photocopier, or by scanning and printing after using your photo programme to shrink it.

I just use wood. Available in a range of hardness values from your local firewood stockist (aka skip).
One of my vices is the type with extra wide jaws, like 6in on a normal 4 in frame so it is easy to hold wood strips with a rubber band. Small slit in the working face for the band to shelter in. Softwood is great for deforming itself round a screw thread or other round item, or drilled to hold round stuff, or sawn Vs to hold squares over corners.

Some lathes have a split nut or some such for adjustment. There are of course many different models of the Student so it could be different on each one, if provided. See if you can find a manual or do a search for the appropriate cross slide nut which will show if it is adjustable.

I keep getting excited about the thread title and then remember it was only a wood planer....

At an hour long I'm watching in stages. I seem to have caught the millenial's lack of concentration span. Something slightly irritating abut the commentator's voice too.