Member postings for jason udall

And thank you for that message

Just to futher stoke the fires..

I often see shear pins in outboard motors...as sacrificial between prop..and gearbox shaft.

These use a ccopper alloy..which I think is brass..it matches workshop properties of brass..

I say maybe brass since brass is not a material I would choose for salt water...

But the shear strength is comparable so..and colour isn't bronze..but still. .

To the point ..

brass is used as a sacrificial component between ss and the plastic of the prop...

I have seen steel.. ( notched)..bronze and brass shear components...

I have not seen ali but thats my loss..

Still keen to learn.

Btw..looks like a roll pin to me..I hope those two funtions weren't combined but it might be..again still keen to learn. ..

And woodpeck ...lots....0.2 size pecks.( rolls eyes)...coolant will help even in brass..to wash the swarf from drill/hole when retracted

The bottom of your drilled hole will at best be a plane surface..at 0.2 mm scale it will probably have a scrape mark across the bottom from where the drill stopped..

This ridge is worse to start on than a plane surface...

Once deflected the drill is off on its own...

I would start on a faced and if needed stoned face...

At 0.2 mm in brass say 250 000 rpm...so inpractice as fast as you have...

Also you need a drill chuck of better or comparable runnout for your drill..

But try dead flat face and fast as possible...

Yes Chris...unless the part isn't parallel over the holding section

..frequently

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 26/09/2014 17:42:00

Chose drill or rod of same diameter as stop...

Manoeuvre vice until " drill" just touches fixed jaw..

Drill center now in line with stop centerline when clamped in vice..

Now drill as desired...

Edited By jason udall on 18/09/2014 13:43:52