Member postings for Paul Lousick

I am not familiar with them but a quick Google search came up with a few hits and sellers on ebay

GUIYANG XINTIAN OETECH CO.,LTD, www.chfoic.com

Operation manual **LINK**

Hi Bruce, welcome to the forum. I live a little bit further up the coast from you, in Sydney.

To answer your question, the time that someone answers your query varies. Only someone familiar with your question may answer and not everyone is on line at the same time. I don't know anything about a burner similar to the Saito BF2. My interests are steam traction engines, full size and models.

Cheers, Paul

Similar to the above post by Neil and the reference to Joe Pyzynski is how I make washers. The machining jig below on the left was used for making copper washers 42mm ID x 58mm OD x 1mm thick. (similar jigs used for smaller dia. washers 0.25mm thick).

The shim material was roughly cut, slightly bigger than required and sandwiched between 2 square plates. The plates clamped together with bolts at each corner and mounted in a 4 jaw chuck on the lathe. Then drill/bore a hole thru the complete assembly to the the required ID.

Remove from the end plates and mount in a jig as shown for turning the OD. (cardboard shown as example only)

Clamping the washers together with a solid plate on either end eliminates any roll-over and produces a sharp machined corner. (On very thin material it is best to make a number of them at the same time)

Edited By Paul Lousick on 10/01/2023 06:07:36

Hi Ketan,

I did say that the SX3 was a great machine and replaced it because I could not get replacement parts, otherwise I may have kept it. And yes, I did push it to the limits but not over it. If it is not capable of achieving these, then the specified limits should be reduced. If the latest machines have been upgraded and you can supply spares, well and good. I can only speak about my experience.

Paul

Diving (water) equipment suppliers as suggested or camping and hiking supply stores.

Dis-assemble gauge and repair if possible or get a new gauge.

( YOu could always replace the whole motor unit with one of those industrial sewing machine motor and controller packages. Cheap as chips on t'interweb.)

This may be an option IF you could find one that is flange mounted and similar size. The Sieg uses a 1000W brushless DC motor.

A quick search found ones that are foot mounted and costing more than $500, not a cheap option. https://www.sewingmachinesaustralia.com.au/shop/buy-accessories/motors

Edited By Paul Lousick on 04/01/2023 21:22:17

My first mill was a Sieg SX3 and used to mill most of the parts for a 6" Ruston Proctor traction engine. (refer my previous posts). It was a great machine but it starting having problems with the variable speed motor control board which I replaced. The replacement board also starting to have problems.

Our local supplier in Sydney no longer stocked Sieg machines and I sold it and bought a slightly bigger RF-46 type mill with a single speed motor and gearbox drive. Replacement control boards are expensive. Make sure that they will be available if you should need one.

Paul

JB Weld is a metal impregnated epoxy. It is a grey colour but not sure if it will give an exact color match.

A woodworking method for filling holes is to mix sawdust from the part your are making and glue as a filler. You could try cast iron dust instead. Try on a sample first.

Also a Merry Christmas from further down under (Sydney, NSW).

Although we have had some unusual cold days lately with snow falls in the mountains south of here, the normal hot weather is back at a comfortable 30 deg C today.

Tinted windows is a must have in Australia to help cool the car in summer, especially when the temperature outside is 40+ Celcius. We even put on our house windows.

Our club (full size engines) was given a small steam engine of unknown origin. It has a 5" bore and 10" stroke. Base dimensions are 1400mm x 230mm. Does anyone recognize it ?

The flywheel appears to not be original (more like the handwheel from a large valve). An interesting feature is the slide valve control rod which is guided thru a bush in the base of the governor. Also the long stroke water pump, attached to the piston rod.

Another project for my bucket list is to make a model of this engine.

Video of the engine running. **LINK**

As well as running steam engines, our club also hosted the Australian National Postie Bike Rally. Video here for those interested.

**LINK**

Hi William,

An option when building the A7 Fowler, if parts will not fit on your Myford is to have it done elsewhere. Join a local model club. Fellow members may be able to help or get a commercial shop to machine the parts.

I built a 6" Ruston Proctor traction engine with the majority of the turning done on a 9" Southbend lathe (4 1/2" swing) The rear wheels are 24" diameter and my lathe was big enough to turn the hubs, shafts, etc. The wheel rims were rolled from flat bar and spokes laser cut. The only turning that was required after fabricating the wheels was to true-up the ring on the inside of the wheel where the park brake rubs. The wheel rims, although a millimeter or 2 out of round were not turned and have rubber bonded to them.

Most of the machining work was done on a Sieg SX3 mill and not on a lathe. Castings and gears purchased from Live Steam Models.

(Build about 1,500 hours over 7 years) **LINK**

Edited By Paul Lousick on 22/11/2022 22:27:55

Depending on build quality and price, it should not be a big job to re-gauge it to 5" if it is actually a 4-3/4" . But check with your boiler inspector first to determine if the boiler or modifications are acceptable otherwise it could be very costly.

I am not familiar with the design of the boiler is a Pansy, but some boilers are fitted with girder stays instead of bars, which are not apparent from looking at the outside. Have you inspected inside to see its construction ?

Edited By Paul Lousick on 22/11/2022 09:37:09

The Australian metalworking hobbyis also has a complete indicator for sale.

**LINK**

From the description, it is one design that I have never seen.

Once again a photo is worth a 1000 words in describing it for a sensible answer.

Just a suggestion: It may be an advantage to make the angle bracket higher and key into the hold down slot in the RT in case the slop in the M8 mounting holes allows the base side of the RT to lift slightly.

Often the details in a model that has been scale down is a simplified version of the original and and material sizes are slightly larger than calculated to suit available plate and bar sizes. (smaller standard sizes may be too weak).

If a drawing is scaled up from a small model and a slightly larger, standard size plate, etc is used than that which was calculated, you may end up with a chunky model that does not have all of the detail of the original design. Always best to work from full size if available.

Timing should be done when the engine is hot and parts have expanded. (And I would not recommend sucking, especially on a large/full size engine with steam and oil)