Member postings for Paul Lousick

"Band-it" strapping is very useful in the workshop. Cut into small lengths as shims to raise the height of lathe tools and bent into a U-shape as a spring between the parallels to keep them pressed against the vice jaws.

Paul

It is for woodwork and does not have to be as accurate as for metal but an option is to screw the insert into the woodwork chuck.

Then clamp a piece of round bar in its jaws and then use the round bar to mount everything in your metalwork lathe by the round bar. Everything then should be axially aligned.

I do a similar operation when I have to add a threaded hole in the end of a BSP plug to turn it into a reducing bush by screwing it into a pipe socket, held in the lathe chuck.

Paul.

PS. After looking at the photos again, I am a bit confused (easy to do at my age).

The top photo shows an internal thread of M33 and the 30mm dia register that has to be bored out to 32mm but the last photo has the plug fitted to this end. How did you bore out the hole. Was the plug removed first ??

Edited By Paul Lousick on 18/02/2021 01:11:43

I have not used FreeCAD but have used ProEngineer and Solidworks as a professional draftsman for 20+ years. and for 99% of the time, modelled parts separately and inserted into an assembly, using constraints to fix them together, although it is possible to do it all in assembly mode.

The big advantage of making the items as separate models is that they only have to be made once and can be inserted into the assembly many times.

eg, model a wheel and if the identical wheel is used more than once, just insert it again. You don't have to draw it again as you do in 2D drawings (may take a long time to model it first but seconds to insert it into the assembly). If modelling a part in assembly mode, you can mirror it make more of the same shape in an array (a number of the same items at a common distance between them) but cannot randomly place the same part in different locations and have to model it each time.

Standard items like nuts and bolts are created once and stored in a library location and every time that it is needed, can be inserted into the assembly. No limit to the number of times it can be used and does not have to be modelled each time.

The advantage of using the same part in a number of locations is not having to model them each time used. If the part is modified, every instance of the part in the assembly is changed. If the part is used in a number of different assemblies, every assembly will be updated, saving heaps of time. This is also a disadvantage if you only want to modify the part in only 1 assembly. (in this case you replace the common part with a separate part to the others).

A big 3D model like a steam loco is best done by making sub-assemblies (of individual parts) and making a main assembly from the smaller ones. The CAD model of my steam traction engine consists 1 top level assembly and about 150 sub-assemblies, and a total of over 1000 individual parts.

2D drawings are produced from the 3D assemblies and parts, and can be in any configuration. All details on 1 sheet or spread over many. The drawings are automatically updated for every change to the models. Drawings can also be made to control the model. Change a dimension in the drawing and the models are updated (not always recommended)

Paul

Edited By Paul Lousick on 17/02/2021 11:31:07

An 11 year old, wanting to build a steam loco is very commendable and should be encouraged but as stated already they can be very expensive, requireing a workshop with power tools. Lathes and milling machines are dangerous tools and someone with little or no experience could easily hurt themselves.

Many clubs will take a youngster under their wing and teach and supervise young members.

Wonderland Models sell a Wilesco model steam traction engine in kit form. **LINK**

Electrically heated gloves and jackets. Not cheap but will keep you warm.

The gloves are made by Milwaukee and have a battery which is charged via a USB plug. The jacket shown is by Bosch, Markita, Milwaukee and uses the same battery as a cordless drill.

There are lots of DIY pipe benders on Youtube and internet which are simple to make. Tube and pipe can also be bent by packing sand in the tube and plugging the ends. Then heat with a blowtorch to bend. Make sure that the sand is completely dry or any moisture will turn to steam when heated.

Paulthe

Justifying the expense of quality bearings will depend on your skill level. The better ones will have no benefit if you are leaning and a waste of money. Different if you are a skilled skater in a competition. My son was a skate board rider and used normal bearings (not the real cheap ones) and they stood up to the torture that they received going over jumps, etc. Spending a bit more on good, comfortable boots is a justified.

Shop around If you really want the better bearings. Don't buy from the skate suppliers,go to a beaing supply company instead. prices at the skate suppliers are inflated.

I have a friend that used to work for SKF bearings who told me that they sold the same bearing at different prices, depending on who you were. The list price was similar throuout the industry but difefrent discounts were given. A new, unknown customer paid full price or given a 5-10% discount wereas a regular customer got a 50% or more discount. The skate shop will be charging full price, so go to the bearing supplier and push for their best offer.

Paul

Look for high tensile galvanized or zinc plated wire. Sould be available from a decent hardware store or available online. (even at that auction site that some people are afraid to say. aka: ebay)

Or suppliers that sell fencing wire.

Paul

Hi Peter,

Thanks for the link to Practical Mechanics. I did not know of that magazine and it will give me many hours of reading. I have read more than 250 issues of the Popular Mechanics magazines and running out of issues.

Paul.

I grew up reading Popular Mechanics magazines which had articles of the latest technology and projects to build. They are available to read and download from the Internet Archive. Editions date back to the early 1900's.

There are lots of information about using tools, machining and building models. And interesting to see how technology has evolved over the years. A lot of good reading for those cold winter months in front of the fire.

Paul

Popular Mechanics

Gerry,

Modiications will depends on how much extra you want to lift and unless you do stress/bending calculations on all parts of the crane, you will just be guessing. The existing members have probably been selected to just carry the load specified to keep production costs at a minimum.

The maximum downward force is directly under the hook and there will be more load on the front wheels than those on the rear. Best to buy a bigger crane if you want to lift heavier loads.

Paul

Hi Gene,

Unless it has changed, you cannot download from Pocketmags, only print 1 or 2 pages at a time (to office printer or pdf, etc) . Then merge pdf's into a single file or use the mobile app to read offline. I can't do this because the app requires Win 10 and I am runnin g Win 7.

Paul

Edited By Paul Lousick on 08/02/2021 22:14:19

A broach (push or rotary) is the best way to make square holes but the cost to purchase or time to make one could depend on how often it will be used. (different if you have deep pocket or plenty of spare time).

An option for just 1 or 2 holes is to drill a hole and file square. But my hand filing skills are not that good. Using a filing guide is an option to keep the file sqaure to the work (another one of those projects to do when i get round tu it)

You can also hold a file in the chuck of a mill or drill press to keep it vertical and use the quillt to move up and down.

Similar to this Youtube video by Joe Pie but an a bigger size: Square Hole

Paul

There are heaps of free pland for building engines, etc on the internet. Some that are made from bar stock. Do a search on Google for ideas.

Like this site: **LINK**

Paul

I used similar scales with a simple display on my first mill which were OK for about 12 months, then started giving false readings or not returning to zero and replaced the scales with a second set which also gave problems. The scales are not sealed and don't like moisture and dirt. When I upgraded the mill. I fitted Easson glass scales and readout and no problems for 7 years.

Paul

Rotary table. Home made with graduations around the edge but I don't think it was used for machining. Light duty worm drive and no hold down slots or holes except for the one long slot and small location dowels. Possibly for mounting a telescope or some other type of instrument ???

Paul

Ball valves can be used on steam lines. We have one on a full size traction engine (180 psi) for controlling the steam to the injector and is good for a couple of years, then needs replacing.

They are not good if you want to accurately regulate the volume of steam. The action is too course, only 1/4 turn from off to full on and would not recommend using one for the throttle valve on an engine. Your engine would accelerate too quickly from a stop position because of the sudden rush of steam as you open the valve.

On my model engine, I have shaped the opening hole on the slide valve as a tear drop shape to stop it jumping when I open the throttle. The slide uncovers the smaller end of the opening first, allowing only a small amount of steam to pass.

Paul

Edited By Paul Lousick on 05/02/2021 01:56:48

It appears there is a bit of room to swing a hammer if you remove the round tank.

You need to make a support (anvil) to hold the rivet head while the opposite side is formed. Perhaps a solid piece of steel with a half round hole in the end to match the rivet head profile and clamped in a vice. Then with the chassis held vertically and the rivet head supported, set the opposite side. A centre punch with a concave end (used for punching nails) is all you will need as a snap..

Your idea of something like a stapler would also work but would have to be much stronger to squash a rivet. Perhaps using a pair of vice grip pliers and modifying the jaws.

Paul

Edited By Paul Lousick on 03/02/2021 00:38:09

Looking good Peter,

I would be interest in seeing an article on the hardware and software, etc that you used.

PauL

Hi Chris, Ya gotta be quick on this site

Paul.