Here is a list of all the postings Paul Lousick has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Cutting fluids |
02/03/2013 09:00:59 |
Thanks for the tips on using alternatinve products especially using Brylcreem. Have not used it for 50 years when it was the fashion to have oily hair. |
01/03/2013 12:17:18 |
Thanks for the feedback, especially the common name products. I live in Australia and we do not have some of the brand names mentioned. Regards, Paul. |
01/03/2013 09:37:16 |
Does anyone have a list of recommended lubricants for drilling, reaming and tapping different materials. (steel, S/S, bronze, brass, gun metal, cast iron, aluminium, etc.) Can these be used for milling and turning or are they different ? Also homegrown substitutes if you do not have commercial products. |
Thread: Refurbishing a Surface Plate? |
28/02/2013 20:51:32 |
If you cannot hold the surface plate to a magnetic chuck because of not enough area of contact can you first bolt it to a steel plate and then use this plate for mounting to the magnet. Edited By Paul Lousick on 28/02/2013 20:52:12 |
Thread: Moore Pump |
28/02/2013 12:08:35 |
Thanks Ian. The piston rod is bright S/S and already smooth but will give it an additional polish.. The pump body is bronze and I will polish the bore. Thanks for the tip on seating the ball. Having the seat in a shallow cone was what I thought I should do but was not sure. It should allow for a larger surface area for the ball to mate with. Regards, Paul. |
28/02/2013 09:17:59 |
I am building a model of a Moore pump from the supplied castings and would appreciate some advice about its construction. It seems to be too simple compared to a Worthington or similar and I am concerned about its reliability. Has anyone made one ? |
Thread: Canal Crane Error |
26/02/2013 06:54:22 |
My mistake, thanks Andrew |
25/02/2013 22:52:25 |
Hi Neil, Join the club. I am not building a canal crane but have found that the supplied drawings cannot be trusted and are riddled with mistakes. I re-draw and double check everything before I start cutting steel. I work as a professional draftman and the drawings which I have been supplied would be rejected by our workshop. I suppose though, that you only get what you pay for. The set of drawings which I received cost less than $100. If they were drawn properly and checked they would have cost $1000's. Paul. |
Thread: Speedy bore and rings |
24/02/2013 03:17:16 |
Can't see that a slightly smaller bore will effect much. The smaller bore will reduce the output power of the engine slightly but should not be a problem with its operation. In the future if the bore is worn and you have to re-machine you can always take it back to the original size. |
23/02/2013 23:15:18 |
Hi Fizzy, The OD of the rings should be the same diameter as the bore otherwise they will not seal properly. See the link at:- http://users.tpg.com.au/agnet/make%20piston%20rings.html |
Thread: Bench for SX3 milling machine |
23/02/2013 22:07:03 |
The clamp kit came with the red plastic rack which already had holes for mounting. The mill only weighs 200kg which is only 50kg per corner. The wheels are rated at 90kg each. |
Thread: Drawing mechanisms |
23/02/2013 21:44:48 |
Hello David, All CAD software can accurately draw levers and linkages. For layouts, draw the gears as circles using the PCD (pitch circle diameter). Drawing the shape of involute teeth is a bit more difficult. I use Solidworks and Autocad which can draw to an accuracy of 0.0000001 mm. There are many free packages like Draftsight or TurboCad which can be downloaded. Trial versions of professional packages like Autocad can also be downloaded and used for a limited time. As with all software there is a slow learning curve before you can use it properly. The more complex the software, the longer it takes to learn. |
Thread: Bench for SX3 milling machine |
22/02/2013 23:31:35 |
This how I made the trolley for my SX3 mill. Easy to move and sturdy to use. Edited By David Clark 1 on 24/02/2013 10:36:13 |
Thread: Lathe search |
18/02/2013 02:25:17 |
Search for metal lathe (not lathe-wood) |
Thread: LED Work lights for milling machine |
14/02/2013 21:41:54 |
Hi les, If your LED's are too bright can you reduce the voltage with a variable resistor ? |
Thread: Is an old lathe worth bothering with ? |
11/02/2013 22:48:25 |
Hi Richard, If the lathe is in good condition, go for it . The addition of a variable speed drive would be an advantage. I have restored an old American 9" Southbend lathe which was also built in Australia under the name of Hercus. It still has a flat belt drive which will be replaced by vee belts one day. (refer to my photo folder). I am still learning how to use it properly and the flat belts slip if I take too deep of a cut and act as a safety clutch. My only regret when restoring it is that I should have used a harder, tougher paint. Some of the paint is already showing some wear from constant use. Paul. |
Thread: Tapered keyway |
11/02/2013 12:36:27 |
Thanks for the advice. (Reference: The key slot is for the flywheel on my 6" scale traction engine which is 1.1/8" ID x 3" long) I have also found a copy of the Machinerys Handbook which has dimensions of taper keys (BS 4235) showing that the key and slot has a 1 in 100 taper but does not show how to make it. Also found this site for fitting a gib key: http://www.utterpower.com/fitting_gib_keys.htm
Edited By Paul Lousick on 11/02/2013 12:37:46 |
11/02/2013 01:27:40 |
How do you cut a tapered key slot in the hub for a gib head key ? I have access to broaches to cut parrallel slots. My first thought was to cut a parrallel slot and then use a tapered shim to angle the broach. Would this work ? Paul. |
Thread: digital height gauge displays random numbers |
10/02/2013 10:48:55 |
I have found that thse types of gauges do not like moisture. The DRO's on my mill sometimes have similar symptoms when it has been raining for a long period. They operated correctly after they have dried out. |
Thread: Bench for SX3 milling machine |
03/02/2013 22:09:52 |
Hi Gary, My SX3 came with its own factory made base which is 870mm high. This is a comfortable height to work with. I only have a small corner of my garage to use as a workshop and have mounted the base on wheels so I can push the mill out of the way when not needed. Edited By David Clark 1 on 24/02/2013 10:34:54 |
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