Member postings for Paul Lousick

Lambton beat me to it.

I also have a 20mm edge finder and going to modify a 3MT arbor to accept the edge finder. Much quicker than changing collets every time you want to use it.

I don't use coolant on my little bandsaw but lubricate the blade with wax that I bought from a local blade manufacturer. Not sure whats in it but think it's bees wax.

Comes in a cardboard tube. Just run it on the blade before starting a cut. Makes cutting easier and the blade last longer. I use bi-metal blades and this one had done heaps of work, cutting up to 75mm dia steel bar..

Edited By Paul Lousick on 16/07/2013 11:20:21

The scale such as 2", 3", 4" etc refers to the ratio to one foot (12 inches).

eg. a 2' scale engine is an abreviation of a scale of 2" to 1 foot. or 1/6 scale.

A 3" to 1 ft engine is 1/4 full size.

Check out http://www.tractiontalkforum.com in the Model section.

Lots of info about model traction engines.

Found this on Utube

Sharpen HSS endmills with a cheap pencil die grinder.

A great option if you do not have a tool and cutter drinder.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WSAZtphQc4

Fill tube with fine dry sand and plug both ends and heat tube where bend is required.

You could also machine a groove to suit the tube and bend radius in a piece of round bar and use this as a former for bending the heated tube. Heat the former as well as the tube so heat is not sucked out while bending.

I don't have a de-magnetizer and hate it when swarf sticks to everything which has come in contact with a magnet. Would not reccomend them around a lathe or mill.

0.22" is not a lot to remove. I would have used a larger cutter than a 12mm and would have machined the full width of the flat. The standard tool on my SX3 mill is a 25mm carbide end mill. Can't remember the last time I had to replace the tips. Seems to last forever.

Flood coolant is the way to go. Allows heavier and faster cuts. Cooling of the cutter should be constant as repetitive heating and cooling causes heat stress and leads to tip breakdown, especially with carbide.

Look at adding a power feed to the main slide. Seig have them for your mill for $350. Worth the outlay and saves a lot of arm ache.

Hello Paul,

Welcome to MEW. You will find a lot of helpful information here. Also many users with a wealth of experience. I work as a mechanical engineering draftsman and have little practical machining experience and am building a 6" scale Ruston Proctor traction engine. I know how to specify instructions to the workshop with a drawing but running a lathe or mill is a different matter but I am slowly getting there.

Also check http://www.tractiontalkforum.com and search in the Model section for more info.

Lots of luck, PaulJ

Edited By Paul Lousick on 12/05/2013 08:28:38

Similar to Jassons answer. Use an adjustable reamer. Ream thru both holes so that they are concentric to the minimum size and then adjust the reamer and open up one side only.

I recently used an old disc brake as a mounting plate on a lathe while boring a hole. The job was difficult to hold in a chuck or existing face plate so faced both sides of the brake disc and bolted the casting to it. (casting had 6 tapped holes on the opposite side)

I seldom use the swivel facility on my mill and normally use a tilting vice for angled milling but would not think of locking it in a fixed position. It is there for those odd accasions when I may need it.

Does not take long to check the alignnment of the mill head by swinging a single DTI around the spindle. The twin clock gadget is a nice toy but is not needed. You still have to swing it thru 180 degrees to check that both clocks are reading the same.

Andy,

The toolbit is tangential to the job. The end of the toolbit is a diamond shape. Hence both names.

A useful site for model engineering information can be found at:

http://modelenginenews.org

Many articles about IC engines but a lot of useful information in the resources section which is usefull for all types of model engineering.

My tangential toolholder from Eccentric Eng is one of my better tooling investments. Cuts well and a breeze to re-sharpen.

If you take too deep a cut and the tool digs into the work, the toolbit is pushed down into the holder and does not break. Just re-align the toolbit in the holder and start cutting againt. Great for us learners.

They now have a new super tough material which is supposed to be better thaf HSS. Have not tried it yet but intend to get some.

I know that the grit size is the number of grains per inch but what does grade F, FF, 1,2,3, etc. refer to ?

Thanks Tho,

I live in Australia and we use the 80, 120, 320... grit system. I have seen emrery cloth advertised on ebay which refers to "Faithful Blue Emery Cloth Roll 59m x 50mm x F", "Faithful Blue Emery Cloth Roll 59m x 50mm x FF", "Faithful Blue Emery Cloth Roll 59m x 50mm x 1", "Faithful Blue Emery Cloth Roll 59m x 50mm x 2". etc. I assume that the last letter refers to the grade of paper but I do not know what it means. The ebay sight is in the UK.

Different countries have different systems for specifying the grit size of abrasive papers. Does anyone have a comparison chart for the grades of emery paper ?

Emery papers are sometimes graded by grit size in microns and labeled as 80 grit, 120 grit, 320 grit, etc. but I have seen grades of emery paper with numbers and letters (1, 2, 3, F, FF, FFF, etc).

What are the equivalent of these in grit size ?

What is the best way to remove surface rust on cast iron. ?

I have some castings which have been machined. They have not been painted yet as I wanted to finish the rest of the project and paint them all at the same time. Did not want to coat them in oil as cast iron is porous and absorbes it and makes painting difficult. The machined castings, some of which have been machined months ago have had no sighn rust on the surfaces while in my workshop but after a 6 hour trip in my car they are slightly rusty. (Note: has not rained recently and no sign of moisture in the car).

Any suggestions on best way to remove it ? (wire brush, steel wool, rust converter, )

Try this link for making piston rings.

http://users.tpg.com.au/agnet/make%20piston%20rings.html