Member postings for Paul Lousick

Hello Graham,

I have a similar set-up on my mill and also found that coolant does not like flowing thru small pipes. It tends to only run down the inside sides of the tube and not fill them if the length of the tube is long. (about 1m). With a short length of tube (200mm) it flows OK. I think that there must be a capillary action which is restricting the flow. Problem solved by feeding the short length of small tube attached to the mill table into a larger tube diameter tube which drains to the coolant pump.

Paul.

Warning !

Two-pack paint includes various types of polyurethane, epoxy and acrylic systems, consisting of a base component, in combination with a hardener or catalyst. Quite a toxic concoction that can cause a series of health issues; therefore, two-pack paint is only to be applied by those people with appropriate knowledge and training.

Paul.

Hi Brian,

How big is your boiler ?

If it is used in Australia, it may not comply with the requirements set out by the Australian Miniature Safety Committee and will not be approved. Australia has a much higher standard for model boilers than America or GB.

The boiler which I am building has been designed in GB and can be certified for use at 130 psi. In Australia, the plate sizes and boiler stays have to be bigger and I can only have it certified for 100 psi.

Best to check with a boiler inspector from a model engine club first.

Paul.

Hi Harry,

Not sure of the application for your valve. Globe valves are normally used to control the volume of water, steam, air, etc. Full bore valves are not as good for this.

If you need a full bore valve, why not use a plug valve (which is used on steam engine drains, blow down valve, water supply) or a ball valve.

Paul.

Nick,

I would center it in the lathe chuck, face the back and turn the boss first which will give you a datum face and location diameter to machine the opposite sides and remove the location spiggot.

The drawing does not show any surface finish or tolerance for dimensions. Check it they are required before you start machining.

Paul.

Edited By Paul Lousick on 14/11/2014 22:43:55

Edited By Paul Lousick on 14/11/2014 22:47:25

Hello PGK,

The size of machines that you will need will depend on what you want to build and as Peter has said, a big machine can also make small parts as long as you have space in the workshop for it.

I would suggest that you only purchase basic tooling to start with and then buy extras as they are required. The cost of tooling can cost more than you have spent on the lathe and mill. Quality tooling is always best and will last longer but will cost more. I often buy cheap cutters from flea-bay for a few dollars. If I break one, throw it away and use another.

Regards, Paul.

A factor which you should also consider is the availability of materials and tooling. The engine which I am building was originally drawn in imperial units but the materials which are available now have changed and some are not available. Therefore I have re-designed the drawings so I can use metric materials. My mill is metric and my lathe is imperial. As most of my tooling is metric, I decided to build a metric version of the original engine.

I used to work for a German company, and as David has said, most of their drawings are drawn in 1st angle projection. Another reason to re-draw the original design.

Check with your boiler inspector. A lot of wasted time and money if he will not certify it.

Fitting digital scales to my mill has been the best investment that I have done to it. BUT make sure that they are shielded from swarf and coolant. I have replaced 2 scales because of contamination.

I have used the washer pumps as a cheap coolant system but have replaced the pump 3 times in the last 2 years.because of failures. They work but are not a long time solution.

Paul.

Hi Neil,

Instead of having to download the index, why not have something like this as part om MEW ?

Paul

My mistake Jason.

Derek, The original piping set up with gauges and injectors attached to the same manifold is the way that it was originally designed and will be safe if operated correctly. But will require you to not use the injector when you are checking the water level.

If you are drawing steam from the manifold (which is also attached to the top of water column) the pressure in the manifold will be lower than the water entering the water column at the bottom. Therefore the water in the glass will rise higher than is in the boiler. You will have to turn off the injector to get a true level of water. It is for this reason that we are not allowed to use a common manifold in Australia. (making it idiot proof). (no comments about Aus. please)

Also left you a PM in your inbox.

Paul.

Water gauges for model engines can be purchased if you do not want to make them yourself. Also clack valves (check valve) , pumps and injectors, etc.

Note that this is the preferred position for the valve levers when in the operating position. (all levers pointing down).

Steam valve (top) - Open

Water valve (bottom) - Open

Drain valve - Closed

Regards, Paul.

Hi Derek,

The valves used are normally taper plug type not globe valves which only require a quarter turn to open.

Although the Ruston Proctor design shows the steam outlet for the water gauges and the injectors connected to the same manifold, it is not allowed under the Australian code for model boilers. Taking steam from the manifold will reduce the pressure and may cause a false reading in the water gauge. I am taking steam for the injectors from another outlet on the boiler.

Paul.

Hi Rob, I have an SX3 mill which could cut the T slot.

The standard cutter which I use is a 30mm end mill with carbide inserts which handles most jobs easily. This is a great little machine but bigger is always better. Your choice of mill depends on what you want to machine. The piece you are machining has to be able to be mounted on the mill with clearance for the cutter. I like my SX3 but if I had a bigger workshop and more $, would prefer a Bridgeport or similar.

Regards, Paul.

Do not have size for the engines but they are in the photo below. (not run all at the same time) Worth investing in a steam cleaner. If they are not big enough to run your engine can always be used to clean the bathroom..

Another option to an air compressor is a hand held steam cleaner available on e-bay for less them $40 for cleaning bathrooms, floors, etc. Saw one recently at a rally running a small engine. Works well. No noise and real steam.

Paul.

Edited By Paul Lousick on 11/10/2014 22:45:52

Piping layout for 6" RP SD.

Note that this has a steam operated pump and uses lifting type injectors. I have made the pump according to LSM drawings but am not sure if it will work and I am not going to use positive feed type injectors instead of the lifting type,

Paul

Hi Derek,

Which Ruston Proctor are you building ?

I am building a 6" Ruston Proctor SD which has a water tank in the tender. Some engines also had auxiliary tanks on either side of the boiler. It should not matter where you get your water from but should have 2 independent methods of getting water into the boiler. (injectors, mechanical pump, hand pump, etc)

Paul.

All boilers are dangerous ! They are a potential bomb if used by inexperienced operators.

Proper training and inspections are necessary.