Here is a list of all the postings S.D.L. has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: My little engine (continued) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
05/06/2015 15:45:42 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Posted by Gary on 05/06/2015 14:45:28:
Hi Roy I wish I could, but the Crankpin that the bearing fits is assembled and pinned between the Webs on the Crankshaft. If I had thought earlier I could maybe have made sure I had a bit of 'left over' Crankpin to use for this test fitting - I didn't recognise at the time though! Something I'll watch out for in the future for sure - I do have some internal bore gauges so I hope I can manage.. Cheers. Garry Put your 3 jay back on. Measure the shaft with your best micrometer. Turn a bit of metal to the same diameter and put a 30 deg chamfer on end. remove metal from chuck and put 4 jaw back on. Use gauge just made to judge boring, the taper helps. easier than internal measumrements. Steve | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Thread: Cutting BSPT threads with a die | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
01/05/2015 14:09:15 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Posted by Mick Berrisford on 01/05/2015 12:29:53: I want to replicate two radiator bypass hose connectors on a Suzuki Kettle I'm restoring in 303 stainless. They're 1/4" and 3/8" BSPT threads and I've never had to do taper threads before. Do I just turn the bar parallel to the major thread diameters or should I be using the top slide to taper them up to the major diameter before using the die?. I have looked it up and know the sizes but I can't find any reference as to which is the best way to do things. The taper is 1 in 16 which would mean an angle of 1.5 ish degrees so would have to be a good guesstimate if I did it that way.
Edited By Mick Berrisford on 01/05/2015 12:31:46 Do as you suggest turn taper first then cut with BSPT die. Steve | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Thread: Raising the L5 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
07/04/2015 22:14:22 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Get some universal channel 100 or 150 high as required weld up a frame, gusset top to bottom either side of fixings. Bolt lathe to frame, lift and put machine mounts frame to floor for level ling. frame probably ends up as two rectangles first one under head stock the 3 prices to side under tail stock Steve | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Thread: Parting Off MEW225 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
07/02/2015 10:35:45 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
In a previous job I volunteered to part off some 316 stst M24 bolts that were too long. I was actually designing things but there was no one free to do it and I had a Factory Acceptance Test the next day and knew that the Resident Engineer coming would reject them for too many threads sticking through. So onto the Colchester Master front Dickinson post add a Sandvick parting tool. Feeding by hand and Bang tip gone. see Mick and get another tip second bolt, bang another tip gone. Mick says lets see what your doing. digs out the rear tool post and fits on with sandvik tool moved to back and up side down. puts it at about 400rpm and cuts with power feed. I did the rest of the bolts in less time than I did the fist two. Micks view always part under power feed. Fast forward to nowadays got a Colchester student MkII in the workshop (Garage) so big by Myford standards. It came with original Dickinson T2 quick change post, using a Sandvik parting blade it parted Brass and aluminum under power fine EN was ok some of the time, stainless was always a disaster. I was looking for s rear toolpost but eventually I saw that the tool holders pulled out and twisted when there was a jam and fired back into place. I replaced this with a Chinese version of the Multifix type. I got the money back by putting the Dickinson and holders on e-bay and the Multifix that is half the size of the Dickinson will part 2" 316 StSt as if its butter sat on the front. My take is many tool posts are not as rigid as we think and power feed is the key with a tool that rolls the chips or swarf so that it is narrower than the groove being cut.
Steve | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Thread: More reliable connectors | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
07/02/2015 10:14:05 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Posted by John Shepherd on 07/02/2015 07:28:30:
There's a lot I don't know about crimping but I do know that the crimp and the wire must match and the only tool to use is one of the ratchet types designed for the crimp in use. Otherwise it's a disaster. A grey area for me is use of crimps on solid wires and the voltage ratings of crimps. Can any one give some sound authorative advice on the subject of crimping please.
We use both bootlace crimps and the RYB eyelets, fork and blade crimps at work on lamp circuits that run at 950V 4A and have a strike voltage up to 2KV. this arrangement passes both UL and CE low voltage directive via independent test house in UK, so that should give some idea. They do insist on the correct ratchet tools that have to do a pull test on a sample every year or 6 months depending on use. As others have said soldering ends of wires going into clamp terminals is a no no now days however neat it looks. Best connection is the spring clamps found on many terminals and increasing numbers of components, gets rid of the screws working loose during shipping.
Steve
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Thread: HSS | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
05/01/2015 21:52:56 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Put a groove on each side with tool of choice ( offhand grinder, angle grinder dremmel etc) wrap in rag and put in vice with groove out of jaws, hit with big hammer. If doesn't break get bigger hammer. Steve | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Thread: Latest boiler regs? | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
05/01/2015 21:47:48 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Posted by fizzy on 04/01/2015 20:55:28: Not looked at the green book in a while but pretty sure there is nothing akin to this in it. Indeed why would there be? So long as the boiler is safe and to spec what you do with the steam is your business...ah, it drives me mad!! It's not just the boiler being tested under the PSS2000 its a system test. Green book 1.2 Green Book clause. 3.13a states that system is "boiler shell including fittings and pipework" Fittings are defined in 3.3 and include saftey valves and regulators etc. In essence the whole system has to satisfy the inspector not just the boiler she'll, at the end of the day it's the inspectors nuts on the line. Steve
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Thread: One for the thinkers? | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
27/12/2014 19:38:01 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Posted by fastjohnrs on 27/12/2014 19:27:31: If they have the same amount of play I'd imagine they'd knock the same, unless the difference in weight of components has a part to play, be interesting to see what other people think
For any class of fit the amount of clearance or interference increases with diameter so what may be sloppy on a small shaft would be proportionally tighter on a bigger shaft. Steve.
Edited By JasonB on 28/12/2014 07:25:30 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Thread: Thread Size | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
24/11/2014 18:31:49 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Posted by Jack Foreman 1 on 24/11/2014 09:39:54: A bit of a shot in the dark. Can anyone, offhand, tell me the size of the internal drawbar thread in a Clarkson 30INT chuck please? I have to make the drawbar for the mill to secure the chuck. Thanks I have seen M10, 3/8 BSW, 3/8 UNC, M12 and 1/2 BSW, and I expect there was 1/2 UNC as well. I brought some threaded rod back from the U.S. for the UNC one. Try some bolts or if very carful some Taps to try them. A lot of auto locks have the size in very feint writing on the side, if tarnished try cleaning up wit a bit of WD40 and fine scotchbrite.
Steve
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Thread: Boiler thickness and pressure | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
24/10/2014 18:36:15 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Posted by JasonB on 24/10/2014 15:24:04:
From SDL's posting the temperature is taken account of by a separate allowance and the safety factor remains the same at 8. J The martin Evans book that I took this from has good worked examples and certainly the tube thickness is what is in the Northern association guidelines. Note these design guidelines are separate from the testing book. This should not stifle developments but few boiler inspectors are going to have the experience to review FEA but this should not stop people adding blind bushes for fixings of door runners etc Please spare a thought for your Boiler inspectors, many do a thankless job, at the end of the day its them that has to sign off and pass things. At our club for many years the boiler inspectors thought they were covered by the club insurance, It was only when I raised a question in writing during the review before the last code change that it was made clear that the club needed separate indemnity insurance for the boiler inspectors otherwise there assets are on the line. as you could imagine we took this out promptly. This insurance is shown on the southern fed form but historically the implications had not been understood.
Steve | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
24/10/2014 13:24:20 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Posted by JasonB on 24/10/2014 11:26:54:
SDL would it be possible to put some figure sinto that formula particularly the stress value that you used as that seems to be one of the big variables. Figures I used are shown below from my spreadsheet based on Martin Evans book which are the same as the Northern Association guidelines I mentioned earlier.The .9 join allowance is what I would allow, drawn tube is 1. this gives .091" or 2.32mm
Steve Barrel thichkness Source Model locomotive and marine boilers By Martin Evans ISBN 1 85761 138 1 P28 Where P Plate thicnes in inches D OD of Barrel in inches F Factor Of Saftey 8
WP Working pressure PSI
S Ultimate tensile strength cu 25000 psi cs 60000 posi ss 70000 psi
R Riveting allowance single rivet = 0.5 double rivet 0.7 silver solder=0.8
C Corrosion allowance cu 0 ss 0 cs 0.5
T Temperature allowance <100psi = 0.8 100-150psi = 0.7
I used as below
Edited By S.D.L. on 24/10/2014 13:26:06 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
24/10/2014 10:58:13 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Posted by fizzy on 23/10/2014 21:55:00:
Hi Julian. I can assure you that I am far from bonkers! The fact remains that there is a published and accepted formula which if applied to the letter would allow the use of the gauge I referred to. As a scientist I can either accept the formula or reject it. It is either right or wrong and the fact that no one has published a boiler to this specification is completely immaterial to the fact. I have no intention of building said boiler without thorough understanding, but as yet I have not seen a single argument which in any way proves the formula to be wrong. Indeed if we had never departed from accepted standards we would still be building wooden battleships and car bodies would be made of 1/4" steel plate. I openly welcome constructive input and criticism but without supporting evidence it is merely an opinion and they don't stand up to scientific scrutiny. I still fail to understand upon what grounds an inspector could fail the boiler other than he didn't much like the look of it. Why should it be rejected if it satisfies published and well used formula? Hi Fizzy The answer that I posted earlier was based on the Martin Evans formula. I have been rooting around in my workshop and found a guidance note titled.NORTHERN ASSOCIATION OF MODEL ENGINEERS BOILER INSPECTORS SEMINAR. Boiler Design Materials Calculations. In this they recoment that the Martin Evans formula of P=( D*F*W.P)/(T.S.*R*C*T*2) be used Now if I was a Boiler inspector at a club in the northern federation that is what I would use until the guidelines were changed. On a different note, I have never used a strength of 1 on welded joint design even with coded welders hence my use of .9. When you were coded did the welds still have to be x rayed on butt welds and dye pen on fillets? Steve
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21/10/2014 13:13:05 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Posted by fizzy on 20/10/2014 14:55:04:
Im fast aproaching completing my 71/4 invicta. Now moving to the boiler design phase. Im planning on using copper for this, the thinner the better as far as construction ease goes (TIG Welded) so I put the following for discussion:
ID is 5.625"
Using 3125lb/in (safety factor x8) and 16g tube I can run WP 70psi.
Is 70 psi likely to be enough pressure or will I need to calculate this also?
Can i justify a lower safety factor?
Thanks
Using Martin Evans numbers I get minimum 0.082" wall allowing a .9 factor for the Tig butt weld. Silver solder lap joint would be 0.8
Steve | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Thread: New addition to the family.! ;) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
17/10/2014 12:09:41 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Posted by magpie on 17/10/2014 11:55:19:
Nick, if the head is nice and square on, leave it where it is and buy a tilting table or a tilting vice. Unless of course you don't mind spending ages traming the head up again every time you tilt it. Cheers Derek.
Surely the reason for the tapered dowel is to give correct alignment???
Steve | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Thread: Clamps, | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
30/09/2014 10:26:21 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Posted by XD 351 on 30/09/2014 02:59:39:
There isn't much in making making them yourself mostly basic metal work with a bit of turning and threading thrown in - a good beginners project maybe? Ian That's why I posted asking if anyone can remember what magazine an article has been in. Several members at our club want to make some and although I have 1 clamp to copy I remember an article in one of the magazines but cant remember if it was in ME / MEW / EIM or one of the US magazines Home Shop Machinist or Machinest Workshop. Steve
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29/09/2014 20:14:01 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Posted by PeterGee on 19/02/2013 11:27:59: Here is a photo of one of my own Crab Clams:
The preview shows the photo as rather distorted, but the background should help work out the true aspect ratio of the photo... I hope. Does anyone remember an article in one of the model magazines about making clamps to this design. Steve
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Thread: Possible leadscrew nut for light duty machines. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
02/09/2014 15:42:04 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 02/09/2014 13:47:38:
This might be a stupid idea, but i was playing with some nylon fixit blocks. I managed to get an M6 screw into the single hole. After filing a notch in the end of the screw and making several traverses the hole became reasonably free and tidied itself up. Result? An ordinary M6 screw (without notch) or M6 studding gives a lightly stiff but totally backlash-free nut that could be used under light loads for a 3D printer or grinding machine. The only downside is that after a few hours stationary it develops a bit of 'stiction'. Possibly using an undersize taper tap a freer but still usable result could be got. Another option might be working some teflon grease into the thread. Neil There is a big discussion here there might be another thread as well Steve | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Thread: Not a "modeller"! | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
24/08/2014 10:23:10 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Posted by Bill Pudney on 24/08/2014 02:42:17:
To throw another spanner in the works, with my tongue slightly in my cheek, the continual use of the term "Engineer" to describe a person who makes things out of metal, floats my boat. To me that person is a machinist, fitter, sheetmetal worker etc. An Engineer is someone with a Degree in an appropriate discipline, he or she may well practice the art of machining, fitting, sheetmetal working etc etc, but they are also capable of doing the various "Engineering" things, like stressing, complex calculations etc etc. cheers Bill The distinction is if they can do the calculation and analysis not if they have a Degree. I stopped my education at HNC as by then I was married and had a mortgage. I currently spend a fair amount of my time developing sizing tools for our equipment based on the results of validation reports. These reports are usually done by Engineers with masters or PhDs yet still I keep finding them full of errors. The degree only proves that they are clever enough to pass the test not give them an automatic right to engineer staus. Having started off in a Drawing office where all the Designers were HNC / HND and doing all the design and stress calculations, whilst the Engineers sat in a separate office as project managers and couldn't organise a Pi$$ up in a brewery. Steve I Like the name model engineers workshop. if there is so many motorbike and car fans that want garage articles why haven't they got there own magazine?
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23/08/2014 14:57:40 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Posted by John Billard on 23/08/2014 11:43:19:
I hope this is the right place to air a minor sore point. That is the description "modeller" for ME readers as in the latest ad for the next issue. We are engineers, not practicing in "modellers" clay, nor are we on a cat walk! This complaint goes back a long way as I have read that old LBSC refused to use the term "model" preferring the word "miniature". Kind regards to all - including the editor! John B
The magazine has been called Model Engineer for decades probably since the good old days whenever that was. I much prefer the term Scale Model when talking about a scaled model of a prototype. A model maker used to be one of the top trades in many companies. miniature suggests to me dolls houses etc and reminds me of steam fairs and the miniature parade with the explanation that whitworth threads live on as camera tripod mounts when it has been UNC for years. it was natural when MEW was spun off from model engineering to call it Model engineers workshop to try and keep the original readers. Most of the famous old names, Thomas, Radford, Etc etc. We're making tools to improve there models. Since the spin off others have come in, some such as the famous Sir John (I want my 2 quid back) have brought a whole new range on tools customised for home workshop use through Arc and others. So things evolve and change but I don't expect the publisher to play with the brand name, remember Royal Mails new name?? Steve | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Thread: Collets help | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
04/06/2014 19:14:50 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 04/06/2014 17:03:36:
Frank, Putting such force on the collet nut that you have to hold it in a vice doesn't seem to be very kind to the collet or the chuck. My ER25 chuck has a spanner flat on it and I bought a 30mm spanner especially to fit. Even with a ball bearing nut, I regard the force required to close the collet on a 1/8" endmill as excessive. Clearly your experiences differ from mine and the polite and non-aggressive way is to not call my experience nonsense. cheers, Rod Edited By Neil Wyatt on 04/06/2014 18:23:03 Correct torque is about 75ftlbs, which normally requires a holding fixture. The bearing nuts are better . This force goes up for ER32.
Steve
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