Member postings for Thor 🇳🇴

Hi Ron,

If I remember correctly the Compact 5 lacks the ability to adjust the tailstock sideways (as you might do when you want to turn a shallow taper). So if it is so and you want to correct this you will either have to try to scrape the tailstock - not an easy job. Or rebore the tailstock and fit a new (and larger dia. tailstock barrel). Another solution might be to make some arrangement to adjust the position of just the tailstock centre - maybe something like this?

Regards

Thor

Edited By Thor on 09/03/2013 05:55:43

Edited By Thor on 09/03/2013 05:56:08

Edited By Thor on 09/03/2013 05:56:29

Edited By Thor on 09/03/2013 05:56:56

I try to remove most of the swarf at the end of the day, floor less frequently I'm afraid.

Edited By Thor on 08/03/2013 06:13:16

Hi Mike,

The choice of which lathe / mill to buy also depends on the size of work. The C5 lathe with mill/drill will give a small footprint machine that occupies ittle space, but I think you would be better off with a separate mill/drill. Combination machines have to make compromises. As far as I know the Emco C5 is not manufatured any more, but you can still get accessories/spares. I started with an Emco Compact 8, but found that for some of the work I do it is a bit on ther small side. A slightly larger machine can machine both small and larger work. Larger than you can in the C5 or Hobbymat, so if you can afford a larger lathe and milling machine that would be my advice. In the future you may wish to make larger models etc.

Regards

Thor

Hi Len,

a quick google search gave this ***LINK**, maybe what you were looking for?

Here's another link I found.

Regards

Thor

Hi Hansrudolf,

from the pictures it looks like the dowels have been ground. I have tried turning hard stuff with TiN coated carbide inserts, but the result doesn't look as nice as yours.. How is the cermet inserts compared with ordinary coated carbide, and how much more do you have to pay?

Regards

Thor

Edited By Thor on 23/02/2013 06:09:59

Hi Stuart,

I like your idea of recycling, I too used second hand materials for my old lathes bench. Old kitchen tops seem to work well for workshop benches, I use a piece under my new milling machine. .Any possibility for some pictures of your solution.

Regards

Thor

Hi Myles,

you ask what tooling to use for fine cuts, I would say a sharp HSS tool. I have a small tangential toolholder I use. You can make your own or buy one, it is easy to sharpen the toolbit. This has been discussed on this forum before ***LINK***, another ***LINK***.

Regards

Thor

Edited By Thor on 20/02/2013 05:50:46

Hi Jens Eirik,

I agree that the method I described may not be the most accurate, if your workshop is better equipped there are better methods. If the dividing plate will be used in a dividing head with worm and wheel a small error in the dividing plate will be greatly reduced, as mentioned by Neil. You can use the "inaccurate" dividing plate to make a more accurate one if you have a dividing head with worm and wheel, that was what I did eventually.

Thor

Hi Michael W,

thanks for the thorough explanation, much appreciated.

Rergards

Thor

Hi John,

I don't know what kind of pillar drill you have, but mine has a table that can be rotated and the arm carrying the table can be rotated on the column. When I made a dividing plate I glued the paper template to the work and clamped it to the centre of the table. Moved the arm slightly so the centre drill lined up with one of the circles on the template. Then just rotate the table until the drill lines up with each mark, lock the table and drill.

Regards

Thor

Hi Bazyle,

I would miss the forum if the owners "pulled the plug". There are other forums of course, but I like this one (mostly), and I agree with Dennis. As others have said, the software used could be better.

Thor

Hi Geir,

I have taken the liberty of using your photo and edit it a bit, hope that is OK.

Underneath the lathe you bolt pieces of flat steel - say 12 to 15mm thick (red in pic.) and drill holes at front and rear end for height adjustment bolts. Harold Hall has description of how this is done on Myford lathes. As you say a sturdy bench is required. The adjustment of the bed (twisting) you need to make will probably be very small.

Regards

Thor

Hi Stephen,

I agree 39 C is too hot to work, Where I live we had earlier this winter 75cm of snowfall in less than 2 days. So half of your temperature brought up north would have been nice.

Thor

Hi Brian,

have you searched for Lathe Levelling on this forum?

Regards

Thor

Hi Al,

I don't think you can use the existing plate to make a new one with different number of holes. If you have acccess to a CAD program you can make drawings of the number of holes you need for a new plate, print the drawing and glue it to a blank plate. Then you just drill the holes.

Regards

Thor

Edited By Thor on 16/02/2013 17:58:22

Hi John,

very nice work, is the other parts fabricated too?

Thor

Hi Mike,

thanks for an intersting link. Quite a bit heavier work than I can do on my lathe.

Thor

Hi Alan,

strange that you can not get brackets - [ ] - on your norwegian keyboard. No to trouble to get them on mine (Alt Gr + 8 or Alt Gr + 9). Another possibility is to hold down the Alt key and type 091 ( or 093) on the number keypad.

Regards

Thor

Hi Will,

gunmetal has a different composition from phosphor bronze, and subsequently machines differently. Most gunmetal I have come across contains a small amount of lead to make it easier to machine. The gunmetal I have machined has never presented any difficulty, so as you say it is fairly free cutting. The phosphor bronzes I have seen does not contain any lead (but some P) and are much harder and tougher.

Regards

Thor.

Edited By Thor on 05/02/2013 17:45:02

Hi Stuart,

I will have to agree with Andrew and Chris, but in the cold season I usually spend a few hours in the workshop each day. Just finished a simple wobbler.

Regards

Thor