Member postings for Bill Robley

Hi Ray.

If it's the machine I think it is, I have one too and can say with reasonable confidence that the issue is not with the motor but the idler pulley that the sanding belt runs on at the other end. On my machine there is no real bearing for it, just a bronze / brass bush. Over time this dries up and gives exactly the same problem you describe.

My solution was to strip down the assembly (watch out for the spring!) clean, lube and re-assemble. This should sort your problem.

Hope it helps.

Bill.

Hi Nathan.

First of all I should explain that I do not know this machine. But...

Unless the machine has a drawbar to hold MT2 tooling SECURELY in place, I would strongly suggest you do not try any milling with this machine.

Drilling machines are NOT suitable for any milling operations as the Morse taper is NOT designed for any sideways load.

Drilling machines are designed for upwards pressure, where the taper is under constant pressure from the drilling action, milling on the other hand, exerts sideways load which can, just when you least expect it, cause the taper to come loose with often unexpected results and possibly injury

Two rules of life: Constants aren't, Variables won't.

Hi John.

The backup programme I use is called Synkron for all my backup needs to a separate PC setup for the purpose, though the software will also work to a USB drive as required.

The software is totally free for life, works across different platforms and, best of all, is ad-ware, pop-up and virus free.

When run (As Administrator if using Win7) the software looks at previous backups and only backs up files that have changed or are new since the last backup was taken. The only user input required is to tell it which drive to back up and to where, and then only at initial setup, then you simply click "Sync" and the package does the rest.

It's perhaps worth bearing in mind that the initial backup will take some time, depending on how much data you need to backup. Subsequent backups are much quicker as it only backs up changes to the drive and not the entire contents again.

The software can also be set to backup your files according to a schedule set by the user

I have been using Synkron for years and it has never once failed me.

Give it a try, you might like it.

Link: **LINK**

Hi,

I have found that the majority of unbranded calipers come with alkaline button cells (usually LR44 or similar) which will, if left in the unit, discharge quite quickly. My Mitutoyo calipers use SR44 button cells which are silver oxide.

They last so well, I genuinely cannot remember when I last had to change them. It was years ago.

it's true they cost a little more, but the extended life far outweighs the extra cost and they can be found on the internet quite cheaply, but as ever, make sure you buy branded.

So far as AA & AAA batteries go. Temperature changes are the enemy there, if you keep them in the shed / garage and it gets cold in there, it will kill the batteries VERY quickly. you COULD try Lithium AA & AAA cells but I haven't tried them and so cannot offer any performance comparisons.

Hope this helps.

Hi Jamie.

As a relative newbie to all this machining malarkey myself, I can sympathise with your frustration. I would like to take this time to give you a few pointers that I have learned since getting my milling machine.

Sorry if some or all of this is obvious, but I knew none of this when I started out.

Tightness is everything. Well, that and rigidity. Both of the machine, cutters, collets and work piece, and I have to say, you are already onto a loser with the work piece being held vertically as you currently have it.

I would first suggest that the collet is not in the holder correctly. As others have said, the front face of the collet should be flush with the front of the collet nut. that could be why your cutter is slipping.

ER collets are designed to seat into an offset ring at the bottom of the nut. If you find your collet is left in the holder after releasing the nut, then the collet was not correctly inserted into the nut.

You should also ensure that both the tool holder taper (MT3) and the bore on the mill are free from grease, oil and dirt; as dirt and grease can, on occasion, prevent the taper from seating securely. Not to mention running an increased risk of scoring the internal taper.

It's also important that the drawbar is tightened sufficiently. Now, this, does NOT mean hauling as hard as you can on the top nut, the drawbar should be just about a quarter turn past finger tight, just enough to prevent the taper tooling from slipping. Do the drawbar up too tight and you end up having to wail on the top of it with a hammer to release the tooling from the taper and that can be bad for the bearings.

Also, the collet nut should be good and tight otherwise, again, you have the possibility of an end mill slipping.

Most oriental milling machines benefit from the head of the machine being kept as low as possible, a setup I think you will agree, you do not have with your current setup.

If at all possible, try to lay the plate flat on the table (With something sacrificial underneath it) and clamp it there, rather than have it as you have now, it's much more likely to result in a better finish.

Even though you have the vice clamped down there will still be movement.

Remember to lock off all unused axis on X,Y & Z. It may seem trivial but it makes a HUGE difference to how the machine reacts to a cut.

Know & respect the machines limitations.

These machines, although capable, are NOT industrial grade machines and should not be expected to perform as such. I would suggest that your cutter is too big for the machine. having looked at machines similar to yours, they quote a maximum cutter size of 12mm so as you can see 20mm is well above that suggested maximum.

I would also suggest that a 25mm cut is too big a cut to be taking all at once. Especially in steel. I have found that even with all the axis locked off chatter and excessive vibration will start.

Were I making the cut, I would have the plate clamped to the table and slowly lower the cutter down in increments until the cut is finished.

Do not try to climb mill, especially with such a large work piece, it will end in tears, ruined work and possibly a broken cutter. Again, these oriental machines are great at what they do but climb milling in thick steel isn't one of the things they do well. Ideally, especially when starting out, you should be using the conventional milling mode.

In conventional milling, the work piece is presented to the cutter AGAINST the rotation of the cutter, thus the cutter tries to push the work piece away from it.

In climb milling, the work piece is presented to the cutter WITH the rotation of the cutter, thus the cutter tries to pull the work into the cutter.

Climb milling is the setup you have pictured and as these machines are not as rigid as they could be (especially with the setup as pictured) you are asking for trouble. It's important to remember that the lead screws WILL have some play in them, even from new, and even with the unused axis locked off, the forces generated by the cutter can be enough to overcome the locks.

I suspect this, along with the less than ideal setup is your main issue.

Unrelated things to consider with ANY metalworking and especially powered metal working:

1. Did I tighten EVERYTHING down?

2. If it DOES all go wrong, what's the worst that can happen & how can I prevent it happening in the first place.

3. NEVER operate your machines while tired or feeling less than well.

4. There are days when everything seems to be going wrong. Don't fight it, shut down and walk away, it'll wait until tomorrow. Increased frustration leads to mistakes, leads to injury.

5. If it doesn't feel right, it almost certainly isn't. stop and check.

I apologise if my post seems to be all negative, I had no intention of it coming across like that.

For engineering videos, try You Tube, there are loads of videos on there that have helped me in the past but, do be aware that everyone has their own ideas of how things can and should be done.

Have fun and the very best of luck.

Bill.

Edited By Bill Robley on 26/05/2014 14:10:05

Edited By Bill Robley on 26/05/2014 14:11:37

Hi Rod and Allen.

A sign of the times indeed.

Don't get me wrong. I have no issue with the internet retailers. Most have limited overheads and can afford to easily undercut the High Street retailers. I am as guilty as the next man for using them too.

I just feel it's sad when somewhere like that goes and highlights even further how much of a throw away society we have become.

That combined with every High Street looking identical to every other High Street with Estate Agents, Betting Shops, Hairdressers and Nail Bars.

Doubtless the old, double fronted Thomas Brothers will be a Solicitors on one side and a coffee shop on the other.

Shakes head in despair and heads back to the shed.

Hi all.

Having a little free time, I took a trip out yesterday over to North London where I used to live and work, just to see what had changed.

What I found was NOT good.

At the top of Holloway Road , in Archway, there is (was) what I always considered to be a great institution and part of my introduction to machine tools (Wood working at the time) When I were a lad of 16 just starting out on a five year wood machinist apprenticeship.

Thomas Brothers has been trading since the 1920's and never, more than two or three times have I ever been in there in the last 40 years and had them say "We don't stock that" They HAVE said "We don't have any right now, but come back tomorrow and we'll have one for you)

Sadly, all this is to change, as in three or four weeks they are closing down for good. No longer able to compete with flog 'em cheap Charlies on the internet

They are currently having a 50% sale trying to shift what they have left.

Most of the power tools are gone, save for a few 110V ones, and the entire place is now looking decidedly empty

I spent over an hour in there yesterday, chatting with the staff, most of whom have been there for as long as I can remember, and will be going back on Saturday, even though I felt like a vulture picking over the bones.

Thomas Brothers is now another on the list of "Ohhh yes, I remember those, along with Cooke's of Chadwell Heath and Turtles of Croydon.

A sad sign of the times and they will at least, be missed by me.

Hi Richard.

For 3mm aluminium plate, you can, if you have one, use a wood bandsaw, it tends to be a little noisy but it works beautifully. I use mine all the time.

Do also bear in mind that the thinner sheet aluminium tends to be very soft and will easily gum up drill bits, files and the like.

I hope this is of some use to you, now or in the future.

Bill.

The tool in question is a small (ish) tangential tool holder that I thought I might like to try on my lathe, however, the main body of the tool holder protrudes too far out of the front of the tool holder, pushing it beyond the centre point on my lathe (Clarke CL300) so I think, with the lack of treating oven, it might come down to careful use of an angle grinder and bench grinder to finish off.

Thank you very much to all who replied, I appreciate your comments and ideas.

So, I bought a lathe tool holder from the Ally Pally show on Saturday with a view to modifying it at a later stage to fit my CL300.

Life being what it is, when I got it to my shed and tried a file on it, it's harder than a very hard thing, the file skidded off without leaving a mark (Sigh)

Now, I have no idea what steel this is made from but can I assume that if I heat it to cherry red and let it air cool it will become workable or is it going to be more elaborate than that?

Fortunately I only have a few Queen's heads invested in this so it's not the end of the world if I can't do anything with it, though it would be nice if I could make it usable.

Heading SHOULD have read annealing, Sorry, fingers outrunning brain (As usual )  )

Edited By Bill Robley on 21/01/2014 09:10:04

I went to the show on Saturday with a view to spending some of my hard earned.

I found it difficult, and in one case, impossible, to get what I wanted as Chronos had decided not to attend. Warco and DSG were there with the normal size stands but most other traders seemed to have scaled back or pushed up the prices to compensate. Even the stand with the woman normally sitting high above her stand (Regulars will know who I mean) on a set of steps had a normal chair, the stand was so small. upon talking to one of the traders it seems that the smallest stand you can get costs £1000 for the three days, so I can see how it would be difficult for smaller traders to make anything like a profit.

Sadly, before too much longer, I can see this show going the way of the old Picketts Lock electronics fair; moved to somewhere cheaper but more difficult to get to and then just quietly fade into memory.

Or, maybe it's just me getting cynical in my old age.

My fairy seems to have a taste for allen keys. I swear just the other day I was using a 5mm allen key on the bench. Next time I wanted to use it, just three or four minutes later, it was over by the drill press. Go figure.

Edited By Bill Robley on 19/12/2013 09:43:31

**LINK**

Just like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a very happy and prosperous New Near.

Hi Lee.

Most three jaw chucks that are bundled with the smaller lathes tend to be hit and miss, sometimes you get a good one... Other times, well you know about those.

To my mind, and I am quite prepared to be corrected by other members, you have a few choices to choose from.

1. You could buy a "brand" name chuck at something approaching the price of the lathe itself usually.

2. You could buy an independent four jaw chuck. These tend to be more useful as the four jaw will hold square stock too, and setting the work piece central is not as difficult as you might imagine.

3. If all you do is turn smaller stock you could invest in a ER 32 collect chuck and collets, but this can become a limiting factor if you want to turn something larger than the collets will hold.

4. You could try grinding the jaws parallel, but this usually results in a wasted few hours as the jaws may well be perfect at the diameter you ground them on but any other diameter will see them shift again, this is because the jaws of the chuck are usually just fine, it's the scroll which opens and closes the jaws where the issues lie.

Myself, I went with a 100mm four jaw independent and have to say that it is possible to get your work piece to within a gnats whisker of dead centre, more if you take the time.

I might add that it MAY be worth your while looking at fitting a slightly larger version of whichever chuck you go with as there are back plates available that will allow you to fit a 100 or 125mm chuck rather than the 80mm that they come with.

Just remember though that with a larger chuck there is more inertia and momentum, so it's wise to ramp the speed up slowly to save you the cost of replacement fuses and be a little more patient when waiting for the lathe to spin down from the higher speeds.

Regards.

Bill.

Hi Ketan.

I wasn't aware that you had just returned from holiday. I sincerely hope you enjoyed your time there.

We DID go to the country park after having an excellent meal at the pub and spent several hours there taking a slow walk around the lake, had it not been for you, we would never have known the park & pub were there.

Thank you again for that, it just added another dimention to a very enjoyable day out for us both and don't worry, we did find the bus stop to take us back to Leicester without any trouble, in fact we timed it perfectly as it turned out, we only had to wait a minute or two until the bus came along.

Rest assured that i will be recommending AET to anyone who will listen.

Thank you again for the opportunity to meet you and your good lady wife and I hope that AET go from strength to strength in the future.

Bill.

Yeah, been there, tried that Rus. It ended up with more work for me, as in...

"Oooooh look, you could make me a..."

Generally something that would need CNC to do all the intricate work, such as fancy earrings or a necklace, or...

I think i'll pass.

Yup. A good deal more in this one than the last. My wish list is growing exponentially.

I just wanted to post this to say a huge thank you to Ketan at Arc Euro Trade.

Whilst on holiday in the area my partner and I decided to visit AET as I wanted to buy a few items. The building is easy to miss if you are not careful as it’s on a largely domestic street, but, knowing pretty much what I was looking for, thanks to Google maps we found it quite easily.

Upon entering, I was initially a little disappointed that there was little facility for wandering around to look at the stock items but understand that there are space limitations.

That aside, I was pleasantly surprised by the warm welcome we received.

Ketan took a good deal of time out of his busy day (they were planning the new catalogue at the time) to chat with us for about an hour and a half including an impromptu look at the workshop with the biggest milling machine I have seen, and his good lady wife provided us with tea.

As I made my purchase and was preparing to leave, Ketan told us about the nearby country park and then practically insisted upon driving us there (we arrived at AET on the bus from Leicester) and showing us the nearby pub without accepting our offer to buy him a drink.

While I appreciate that all (Most) companies will treat potential customers with a smile and at least TRY to be helpful, I feel that Ketan and his wife went way beyond that and deserve a plug from a VERY satisfied customer who will, in future be buying anything I need from Arc.

I should add that I have no connection with AET other than being a customer and Ketan has (had) no idea that this was going to be written.