Member postings for AdrianR

All this talk got me to go look at the ML i recently inherited from my father. I always thought it was a ML1 but now I am not so sure.

It is a single piece headstock/bed casting with tumbler 'fingers'. It has bronze split bearings and strangely is 3 1/4 " from bed to centre height.

If I remember right the spindle is MT1 as is the tailstock.

Anyone heard of a 3 1/4"?

Adrian

The question I would ask is why are the tapers sticking?

Assuming the tools are the same temperature as the mill, a couple of reasons I can think of are. The tapers are getting rough/scored or the spindle bearing is getting too warm.

Maybe some enterprising chap with a CNC mill should read all the comments and start knocking out the perfect rule(r)

I think natural gas could be a very good shield gas. If you turn on the flow long enough before striking the arc to create the optimal gas/air mix and if you have a suficently robust workshop. The gas will consume all the oxygen and create a CO2/N2 environment. Also as the reaction is exothermic it will preheat the work.

The unfortunate side effect is making the operator inert, but hey nothing is perfect.

BTW Hydrogen is used as a shield gas for Nickel, so CH4 may not be such a daft idea.

Edited By AdrianR on 01/04/2019 17:20:14

Sealed TRBs? **LINK**

This is interesting about precision **LINK**

The reason i noticed it was that i am in the middle of relocating and of course my 14mm spanner is at my other place 160 miles away. At least screw fix have some cheep spanners.

Will be great when the workshop build is finished and I can move it all.

I have just bought a cheep ebay engine hoist and the bolts that hold the castors on are M8. The odd thing is the head and nuts are 14mm across the flats.

I am pretty sure they are metric as they have specification 8.8 on the heads.

Googling bolt dimensions says they should be 13mm.

Anyone have any idea why they are 14mm?

Just a thought about the wheel strakes. In 1917 traction engines were more common so people would be used to what wheels should look like. Perhaps they are just put on that way because it was the norm.

I stir non drip gloss to get a better finish. As long as it is not too hot/cold, you can get it so that it brushes on and spreads just enough to remove the brush strokes, then re-gels and stops the runs.

I have just started to use LibreCAD It is a bit more basic than QCAD but is totally free.

I cant remember if it was on this site and cant remember its name. I read about an epoxy like compound that is designed for repairing slide ways.

Maybe someone who is not having a senior moment knows of it.

Dave,

You could face your block by using a faceplate, if you have one.

Harrold Hall's page

Which book? I have two books with different designs and neither have those dimensions.

Welcome from another newby.

I would vote for green.

Another thing to look out for are brushes sticking and not pressing against the commutator properly.

Thanks for the advise, I think I will go with a ROR in the workshop, then put a combined unit in the attached store room.

BTW as far as I can understand the instructions, these types of detector are latching. Once triggered they stay activated till they are reset (remove from socket). So if the alarm was configured to see them as entry detectors you would not be able to set the alarm till you reset them.

I am installing a burglar alarm in my workshop, it has the option to add smoke detectors. Simple to do, but what type is best to use.

I probably wont use suds and use neat oil instead, so there will be some smoke. Plus stick/mig welding and blowlamps.

I have a choice of;

• Optical smoke detector
• Combined Optical smoke and fixed heat detector
• Fixed heat detector
• Rate of temperature rise detector.

Any one got any thoughts or had experience of detectors?

Ron,

You could leave the grinder in the little shed, then you wont have the issue of abrasive dust all over your lathe and mill.

FYI there is the Drummond users group on yahoo