Member postings for AdrianR

Well if you want an answer ask your wife, I just did. Terry's numbers are not BA although other spanner makes did mark them BA. She can't remember why they are just numbered but No 8 is a 4 BA. Also Magnetos either used BA or BSF threads.

Good when you marry an ex-biker who repaired magnetos with her step dad. Embarrassing when she pounces on some poor unsuspecting biker and informs them what is wrong with their classic bike.

Adrian

Edited By AdrianR on 30/03/2020 16:27:40

Well there is a plus side to all this, the CNC mill in the classifieds, I am sorely tempted to buy it, but of course I can't go get it. £1800 pounds saved and I dont have to justify it to the wife.

Thanks for the advice.

Adrian

Hi,

I am going to make a myfordboy vertical boiler. It is 2.5" dia 5.5" long with a 22mm central flue. It has two bushes at the top and two in the side.

I have a Sievert Cyclone 3524 burner (3KW) and have CupAlloy 455 silver solder (low temp)

From what I have read I should do a two step braze. First the end caps and flue using a higher temp solder, then the bushes using a low temp solder.

My questions are;

Would a 3KW burner be hot enough to use a high temp solder?

Would it be possible to solder the whole boiler using low temp solder? i,e, do the bottom, then the top and its two bushings, and finally the side bushes.

Thanks

Adrian

Ah now I know my next project will be.

I just tried out my new parting tool from Soba being sold by Chronos.

New Clamp Type Parting Tools with Chipbreaker Blade

I am really impressed how well it works. The blade is a T shaped and has a U shaped chip breaker ground into the top. This means you only have to grind the front face to sharpen it, and the tool is held horizontally against the work.

Setting the height is a puzzle, top or bottom of the U? I decided to go for the bottom. My first test was to square up the end of a 22mm brass bar. I managed to cut about 0.5 - 1mm thick slice off. OK it deformed into a saucer shape, but the end of the bar was nice and square.

The swarf came off as a long ribbon and I had no squeal, I think I could have even used the power feed.

I bought the 10mm blade version, it is a little small on my lathe. Soba also make a 1/2" and 3/4" version which Chronos don't stock but I hope to get sometime.

Adrian.

My wife had me up at 6am this morning. All because I said last night that it was probably better to go veg and milk shopping sooner rather than later, as the chance of catching it increases every day.

Don't quite understand why we needed 2 1/2 hrs to get ready.

At least I now have the whole day for the workshop. I am going to start making my very first steam engine today. Just a wobbler, but t is a start.

One of the ministers the other day mentioned the specs were online, google has finally found them.

**LINK**

I must admit I was expecting it to be full schematics on how to build one. These specs mean you have to design and test your own, hardly a rapid way to produce them.

Maybe after you register they will allocate component work.

Adrian

When we were trying to sort things out after my parents died, one of the hardest things was finding passwords. I would recommend getting a password manager e.g. Bitwarden Set the master password to something that you and your SO will remember and make sure your children know where to find it too.

You can also store secure notes, so lists of where all your money is and useful things like NS&I numbers can be safely stored.

Regarding the workshop, perhaps some notes on how to dispose of it all would be a kindness. We regularly see posts from relatives asking either what is it worth or how do I sell it.

A point just made by my wife. get out all your photo's and write on the back who they are etc.

Grim times, but I wish everyone of you the very best of luck and hope to see you all on the other side.

Adrian

You can also get it from Axminster

Sorry just reread OP, you are after bar

I can recommend M-Machine-Metals they have it as sheet. Metals4U also have it but I have not used them

Edited By AdrianR on 16/03/2020 08:42:08

Thanks that looks like the right stuff

Just a thought, if the gun is so old ammunition is not available it means the barrel is old too. Will it still be safe to fire?

Yeup, that is the install media I mentioned.

Not sure I would call it cracked, more like lumpy powder coat

On some wartime and some post war equipment there was a rough black coating. I don't think it was a paint, possibly some kind of powder coating.

I recently saw it again on an Enigma machine, and it reminded me old equipment I used to have and how durable it was.

Does anyone know what the coating was?

Adrian

FYI for anyone still stuck on Windows 10. There is a useful feature in Windows 10 instal media. It allows people with a valid Windows 7 product key to still do the free upgrade via fresh instal of Windows 10.

During the instal it will accept a Windows 7 product key and authenticate your instal and register it with Microsoft.

Of course the usual warnings about making a backup first apply. Perhaps a good time to invest in a new SSD disk drive.

One of my Sony VAIO laptops upgraded fine but then after an update gave a black screen. Took a lot of fiddling to fix it and involved stopping the NVIDIA display driver installing.

Adrian

Well just to spread the panic, remember where your tea comes from!

Incidentally, if we do all survive till the spring, bracken is an excellent alternative when faced with either Izal or no loo paper.

Adrain.

I cant remember where I heard this, but the inventor of slip gauges Carl Johansson was Swedish, and wanted to sell them to America so started making US inch gauges. Great idea not a great salesman and his company got into trouble and was bailed out by Ford. Ford could see the benefit of the accuracy for manufacturing and reaped the $$$$

Other manufacturers soon followed and the Johansson gauge (Jo Blocks) become the defacto standard eventually adopted by the US government. Little did they know that Johansson worked in metric and to make life easy had approximated the US 1" gauge to 25.4mm instead of 25.4000508, well before it was standardised to 25.4

Adrian