Member postings for Phil P

You can use Bright Drawn Mild Steel for machining, but it helps if you stick it in the fireplace first to get nice and hot and let it cool slowly over night.

I too have experienced flat section BDMS moving quite dramatically when milling one side of it. The heating and slow cooling relieves some of the stresses from the cold rolling process.

Phil

Must be a fellow Yorkshire man surely.

Phil

Hi

I had the same response on another forum as well.

Having done some more digging it seems they are indeed the same as W20, but with possibly a slightly shorter keyway according to one source.

This question was asked on behalf of a friend of mine who was just about to start setting up and making collets from scratch, hopefully we have saved him a lot of trouble.

Many thanks

Phil

A bit of a long shot, but does anyone happen to have dimensional details of the buttress thread on a Pultra CJ.1 collet.

This is the 20mm diameter collet that fits the bigger 1590 size lathe, it seems to be about 15 TPI which is very non standard.

Thanks

Phil

I agree with Jason, it looks like a special home made cutter for machining the four splines on the second shaft of the Allchin.

Phil

This brings back fond memories of my trialling days, mostly in Yorkshire. I now live in the home of trials "Silsden" AKA Lampkins territory.

I rode BSA Bantams, Yamaha TY175, Bultaco 350, Ossa 250 Gripper, Fantic 200, Sealey Honda 200.

I then progressed onto the pre 65 scene with BSA B40, Royal Enfield 350 Bullet, Triumph 350 twin, Trifield 500, and a special with a B40 engine in a R.E. Crusader frame.

Not ridden now for 26 years but still go to watch now and again.

Phil

My Myford S7 was doing just the same and I was blaming the leadscrew or nut or both for a while.

In the end it turned out (no pun intended) to be the saddle gibs that needed adjusting, once this was done the bands disappeared completely.

Phil

A pal of mine obtained a couple of XK120 Jaguars in similar circumstances about five years ago. All he had to do was remove them from the garage where they had been left, within three days.

Phil

Edited By Phil P on 15/06/2017 17:14:49

Is Peter's Plates currently accepting orders ?

It appears from his website that is not the case, pity because I need one doing myself at some point.

Phil

Dont worry, it takes you to BBC iPlayer.

I have just finished watching the programme myself.

Phil

Hi Sean

The photo in your album shows the end of a standard 3 morse taper shank which has a 3 Jacobs Taper on the other end with the drill chuck attached to it. Hence the 3MT - 3JT stamping.

This is a fairly common size, hope this helps.

Phil

Jsaon must type faster than me !!

Edited By Phil P on 18/05/2017 19:25:53

Edited By Phil P on 18/05/2017 19:26:26

During the course of the last year I bought a packet of M1.2 Round Head Brass Screws approx 10 or 12mm long (they only need to be about 3mm long) to hold the cladding panels on my model mill engine. I have one screw left in stock so thought I would buy some more.

The problem is I have hunted every supplier I can think of to obtain these and nobody seems to do them. If I had not already had some I would assume they were not made, but I know they are.

Before I go completely mad can anyone on hear give me a clue where I might have bought them from. None of the suppliers at Doncaster show had any ideas either.

Thanks

Phil

I have PDF drawings for the 1½" SCC Burrell, if you want a copy PM me

They do show the sliding firehole door arrangement, but no lubricator I am afraid.

Phil

I made mine from Tufnol running on sealed ball races, but I would think Oilon (Oil Filled Nylon) would be a good modern alternative and certainly worth giving it a go.

Phil

Could it be anything to do with this, I just googled it by the way.

https://www.mapal.com/nc/en/standard-products/product-groups/actuating-tools/facing-heads/

There was another that had been listed on ebay described as LAT SOPAM

http://www.ebay.pl/itm/Tete-a-aleser-LAT-SOPAM-en-SA-40-SA40-Ausdrehkopf-Boring-head-Milling-machine-/390667295934

Is it just me or is there a large letter "U" behind the LAT

Phil

I am just in the middle of designing a shot peening system to stress relieve those hip joint stems.

I was quite surprised at how big some of them are, I have been looking at one about a foot long, must be for a big bloke !!

Phil

David

If you should be thinking of parting with your Myford collets, I am looking for 3/64", 13/64", 27/64 & 31/64" sizes.

These are not very common sizes, but if you do have any spare I would appreciate a message.

Thanks

Phil

Mark

I would be interested in a description of the steps you took to produce that plate if you wouldn't mind.

Cheers

Phil

Do you have a photo of the collets in question to help with identity ?

Phil

Hi Bernard

If you have never cut a bevel gear before, you might be biting off more than you can chew at this stage, you already have a problem with backlash and you could end up with even more if you make a pigs ear of it.

Jasons advice is your best option, but forget tapping the nut unless you have the correct Acme tap.

I would advise screwcutting the new nut, and then soldering or loctiting it into the existing bevel gear once you have removed the worn thread from it.

If you were planning on making a new bevel gear from scratch you would still have to produce the internal thread in it anyway, so you have nothing to lose by making a "repair insert" and trying that option first.

As mentioned above, a photo would help people to give you more informed advice.

Phil