Member postings for mechman48

Welcome Olly, Born in Leicester myself but lived up 'ere in Yorkshire for the past 70 years so can claim 'honorary title 'Tyke' look forward to seeing your contributions & pics in the future.

George.

Whole heartedly concur with all comments above; Hopefully my small contributions have helped in the past ( & the future too ). Much appreciated Neil & Jason. Stay safe every one.

George.

Have a look here..

**LINK**

George.

I have two plug in RCD's both trip when I switch the power off & I have to reset when I re-plug them in & switch power on.

George.

They look like small ball bearings in a plastic carrier; something to do with the drawer sliding mechanism, maybe a piece of one has come adrift?

George.

It's that pesky workshop gremlin again..

George.

Precisely what I do, & have been taught so. I have recently used my set to measure the bore of the cylinder for my beam engine project.

George.

Seem to operate ok in my calipers, bought off eBay in packs of 5.

George.

Welcome Stuart; there are no stupid questions, just questions you didn't know the answer to.

George.

Measure the OD of the countersink screw head, counter drill hole to match the OD, should lie flush if its correct depth.

George.

A couple more bits for my beam engine.. cylinder, piston, con' rod assembly..

Still needs PTFE / Nylon piston ring... PTFE rod ordered

Getting there.

George.

Ian Johnson...'Only problem now is going somewhere to buy them!'

eBay has a variety of stainless straws / tube... couple of examples here:-

**LINK**

**LINK**

George.

I use RTD for tapping & threading generally, but have used WD 40 for aluminium ( Aloominum for our friends across the pond ). Do also use neat cutting oil as well on smaller taps & dies. As above there have been many alternatives where needs must, Lard, tallow cooking oil, ( IIRC I've seen somewhere someone used full fat milk.. ?? ) I have some Cetus 9 soluble oil for flood cooling but that has been relegated to a back shelf somewhere as it is extremely rare that I need flood cooling on the stuff I do. As for parting off I tend to stick to WD 40 or light hydraulic oil ( SAE 32 ) brushed on,suits me fine, horses for courses I s'pose.

George.

..' I just mark the bar and chuck if I rotate. Cheers, Nigel;

I make a point of marking the bar & #1 jaw if I turn stock around.

George.

I used a couple of 12 mm HSS tool stock & a digi level to check for any twist on my lathe...

Headstock end...

Tail stock end...

along the bed... rear shear...0.1mm off...

Front shear...

Same as rear shear, obviously, 0.1mm off length wise, but no twist head stock to tail stock, good enough for me. Pay a £150 + for an engineers level for home check maybe twice a year, I think not.

I have used Eng' box levels, DTI's & electronic alignment equipment when I used to instal / realign turbines / pumps & gearboxes etc, when I was in the middle of the desert a few times but they had to be spot on, including adjustment & offsets for thermal expansion. Save your money for some useful tooling is my thought.

George.

The replacement PWM arrived today so set to & refitted new one to my WM16 mill, now have a working 'X' drive again, forgot to take pics for those that may have been interested.

George.

Mea culpa; have to admit I've never had one of those, nor a live centre burn out on me

George.

Chris... another ref chart for you ... ref Model Engineer's Handbook by Tubal Cain 2nd edtion.

George.

A couple of pics for you to print off & keep for ref... ref.Mechanical World Year Book 1975/76

George.

...'I have never seen a centre point shear off, which is unsurprising given that centres'...

I have at least 3 small 0 size centre drills that have broken pilot points...?

George.