Member postings for Brian Oldford

Amongst others RDG also sell it on Flea-bay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RDGTOOLS-TWO-FOOT-OF-ROUND-DRIVE-BELTING-3-DIFFERENT-DIAMETERS-TO-CHOOSE-FROM-/350656846669?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item51a4c6db4d

Sorry Gents; Jon Gibbs got what I meant. I should have been clearer in that I meant "I could be wrong".

ICBW but isn't the whole purpose of the tapered thread to avoid the need for tape or other means? We're talking BSPT here not BSP.

Edited By Brian Oldford on 13/05/2015 09:23:47

I've also got what is often referred to as a Mk1 S7 but find the original (drum-brake type) clutch very noisy at the higher speeds. Can anyone suggest ways of making it quieter or can it be easily swapped for the later type?

Clearly I haven't seen all variations and accept my post as being too encompassing. I should have said; As far as I'm aware all the ex-main line locos I've encountered use plugs as I described.

May I add what little I know to this discussion. Washout plugs on full size loco boilers have a tapered 11TPI thread. The threads on the plugs are lathe cut using a taper turning attachment and with the tool set as shown on the LH diagram by Jon Gibbs.

I'm off to make a VDH

Is anyone still using the 32 bit version?

Now having an old S7 (Mk1) after owning a ML7 for a time I agree regards the top-slide swivel. The bit I don't fully understand is the wide shear/narrow shear difference.

Whilst discussing repairs and renovations to the ML7/S7 range is there any way of producing a definitive list of inter-changeable parts? F'rinstance can a ML7 bed replace that of a S7? What's the real difference betwixt early and late head-stocks, saddles and beds? etc etc.

I have the vision of the lights dimming through brown outs in your neighbourhood every time you fire it up. Unless you follow Oompa Lumpas idea of using street lamp post supplies I suggest you also prepare yourself for some big 'leccy bills.

I'd be inclined to give the PU adhesive a go. Assuming it's the foaming type make sure the joint is firmly clamped to prevent the expansion opening the joint. If used primarily for its gap filling capabilities it'll have little or no strength.

Thanks. A good starting point.

I'm trying to get a George Taylor mill working that had all the original flat belt pulleys removed. A wet finger in the air says a 1450 rpm 1/2hp motor should be enough grunt . . . .but what rpm for the spindle? I've got a four step pulley that looks like it came off a S7 as a starting point.

Can anyone point me in the right direction to determine the correct size round belt(s) to use to transmit power from a fractional 1450rpm electric motor.