Member postings for Richard Parsons

There was some stuff used by jewellers which you mixed with water and slapped on jewellery to protect it when silver soldering. I think H.S. Walsh sell it (usual disclaimer)

Rdgs

Dick

Before you go how about this tool setting gauge. It has two leds the blue one shows it is sitting down flat on the lathe bed , the other shows the tool is at the right height

Hi Springbock you should not have put in that link as it contains plans of firearms for sale. you could have god knows what or who after you.

rdgs

Dick

Hi there Rick. This is what I really want to build. The original was made by someone in the Romford M.E club. It looks as if it has a stroke of about 12” (304mm) and a width of about ½ of that. I do not want something quite so large but if I built one and wrote it up I thought that it should be able to machine the inside cylinders for a 5” gauge locomotive

I tried to ‘negotiate’ to get the castings from a local (Hungarian) foundry but there were 10,000 reasons why this could not be done. They wanted to make the patterns until I produced the one for the table from my bag. Although they needed work to stay afloat they were unwilling to do the work.

About 4 years ago some oriental gents appeared with suitcases of money. They were after metal. Now if there is one thing a Hungarian cannot resist is a suitcase or two of money. The land was swept clean of metal it all went (the machines, stock) even the roof trusses in the factory buildings went.

I then re-drew the thing to cast it in Epoxy Concrete, can’t get the Epoxy I want.

Ok a 1 ½ times the little shaper would do all I want but I am hunting metal again

I run into reed valves about once a month in the chain saw/strimmer motors. But no one knows it all and many know things I do not. These have two layers of plastic as reeds. Mind you they nowadays have plastic crank cases as well. These can be the devil to repair, but in this modern world they will only sell you a new machine. A few scraps of metal culled from an old computer some epoxy glue and a few 2mm pop rivets job done. 2 bottles of the ‘golden liquid’- and everyone is happy.

I am also working on the exhausts. Noise abatement and all that rhubarb, your gorgeous stacks are forbidden. Their noise would stop the tadpoles developing into frogs. This the reason they have a 5 cc limit on CI engines in boats at that meeting.

Oh aye! I am fitting an oil seal in the crank case and using screened bearings.

Sorry you have a dose of the Nadgers/Lurgi. I had a dose of ’Alice’ last year. Very nasty Christopher Robin went down with it.

Rdgs

Dick

No women do not know. Think of the Man eating shark who will touch neither women or child

Edited By Richard Parsons on 12/03/2012 17:44:46

Martin Hi How many bits is the old Banjo in? Why? You ask as I remember my ML10 it was cast iron. Have a look in your local Kelly's Guide /Yellow pages/the Internet for a local welder. If it in say two bits if you did the preparations your self and made a bit of jig work and the clean up after it would probably cost you £10 to £20 to do.

Hello Rick I want to build either a Box Planer (in Epoxy Mineral –if I can get the Epoxy resins) or a small shaper if I can get the metal. I live in Hungary so I have great difficulty in getting anything.

Have a look at this

http://www.scribd.com/doc/52308512/small-shaping-machine

It is about 7” (about 180mm) long mine about 9” (230mm) with the rest in proportion. The example is hand powered, but as I do not like pulling the ‘punishment lever’ so mine will be powered. And that is a problem I have not figured it out yet. Any Ideas?

The original was made in 1952 by a man with only one arm!

The Box planer is all drawn out but I need 10 to 12 litres of low viscosity of Epoxy resin the only supplier will only sell me 5 by 10 litre plastic jugs.

Regds

Dick

JasonB - thanks. If you contact him pass him my best wishes

Rdgs

Dick

There is another reason. It seems that all pipe work is still in inch standard. In Hungary you buy your pipes as 1/2, 3/4. 4, 5/4 etc. the folk who make it and those who sell it do not know what it means. All they know is that it fits together. They do not understand that the 3/4 pipe has a 3/4" hole up the middle. (Oh! 5/4 is 1 1/4"

The copper pipes etc are inch standard not metric although they sell them as 'nominal' metric. This seems to apply to gas fittings as well.

OK I have BSP from 1/8" up to 2 1/2" taps and dies. They are like me -old- but they still work i also have 26 tpi from 1/8" up to 1/2".

rdgs Dick

I am building a version of Raymon’s 5cc ED racer. It is for marine use in the local model boat regatta to be held in August – Much to the anger of the local anglers-

Has anyone any ideas of reed valve for it?

It seems that a Hungarian nicked my lump of Tuffnol. They have an infuriating habit of picking things up walking off with them and then just dropping them where ever they are and forgetting all about what they have done. It is no good asking them, they do not know what they were looking at in the first place. Last year I found part of the reversing gear I was trying to make on a table in the green house.

Over here in Hungary it is Marcius tiszanort -Fifteenth March-(one of the two National public holidays) so all the old Magyar re-enactment mob were holding a ‘fair’ or a ‘fete’. One geezer was there dressed up in old Magyar togs. He was forging and selling miniature horse shoes.

He was hot forging these things. His forge was about the size of a phone book mounted on a folding table. It had three lumps of fire brick and was heated from below by bottled gas. It seemed to have coal in it but these were ceramic chips. The shoes were made of 3mm wire which was bent into a sort of horse shoe shape. These were piled on his forge. When one was red hot he chucked it onto an anvil and waked it with a large hammer and returned it to his hearth. The shoes were about 30mm across. Later on the now flattened bits were changed into horse shoe shapes with three taps of a smaller hammer job done 2000 Forints each ‘Uram (sir) –a fiver each-

rdgs

Dick

Edited By Richard Parsons on 12/03/2012 07:05:12

An old clock making friend used to do this. He used a set of wheels in a in a fork with a handle.

He made his by straight knurling a short length of silver steel using a fine knurl (actually I did it for him in the Myford). This cylinder was first drilled through the centre. He then cut thin slivers of the knurled steel which he faced up on his Boley and machined the edges so that had the same angle as the knurl. The disks were hardened and tempered. Four or five were fitted into a fork with a pin through the hole. The Handle was quite long and had a sort of curved end like the butt of a gun at the top end. To decide the diameter of the rollers I had to work out the distance apart of the lines of the knurl and their height I cut a full set of knurl cuts in the bar.

To use the thing, he secured what he was going to mat onto a thick-ish bit of ply wood which he secured to his heavy bench. He would then sit down put the wheels against the work piece and put the ‘stock to his shoulder, push down and rock to and fro guiding the rollers with his hands.

He brushed the work piece off now and again with a brass brush –from a shoe shop-.

Hope it helps

Rdgs

Dick

Dcosta Hi Rust is a form of iron. It is not very soluble (it does not dissolve easily in water). Providing your porcelain few metal fittings I would get an inorganic acid preferably 10-15% hydrochloric acid (HCl). Be careful with it. I suspect that your wife maybe using a caustic substance. Normally inorganic acids (except Hydrofluoric acid) will not damage the glaze on porcelain but caustics (NaOH) will. Why not do what I used to do in my shed I had special basin made out of a 5 litre plastic soap container with the side cut out

regards

Dick

Clive what solder and flux do you use. I have tried that trick several times and have had problems soldering in the new cells. Originally they were spot welded.

Rdgs

Dick

I think you will find that Thymol is also soluble in neat cutting oil. As it is non-ionic it should be. in one place i worked a for neat crystals were dropped in the water baths they used to stop algi growing

rdgs

Dick.

There was way back when a series in the Model Engineer which showed you how to build your own NICAD battery reconditioner. I did not build one as I had such a thing included in my Video camera. NICADS seem to 'form a memory' of its charge/discharge cycles. What the thing did was a series of charge-discharge cycles. But as good things go they both went. The camera was broken when someone knocked it out of her hands and she would not use the lanyard. The charger was lost when a Hungarian left it out in a thunderstorm. he forgot it or did not want to get his 'T' shirt damp.

Have a look for the thing if you know where the ME indexes are

Rgds

Dick

Bob I would not try anything like that.

One should remember that ‘Elfin Safety’ and your local council ‘Safety Manager’ have a duty laid on them (by Parliament in the case of the ‘Elfin’ mob) to keep you safe. This is done whether you want to be safe or not.

They can ‘deem’ anything as ‘unsafe’ and can forbid it. If they do there is naff-all you can do about it unless you have some £30K to throw away. They know this and take advantage of it.

These folk have ‘targets’ or ‘norms’ for ‘abatement of unsafe practices’ that they must achieve. So they are always under pressure to achieve.

Remember 'Big Brother' is watching you

rdgs

Dick

p.s. Tha tis one of the reasons I left 'Ole England' Here I have a room (in my deeds) called 'Munka Szoba fem' (work room - metal) and another 'Munka Szoba fa' (work room - wood)

It was a bactericide/fungicide called 'Thymol'. It was also used in a toothpaste. Since it was a 'cide' it is probably banned by the 'Gnomes' of 'Elfin Safety'

Charlie I have one of those vices. I bought it in the 1980s. It is marked ‘Record’. It was my main vice, but now it is on my instrument table. It has 3 jaws and a rotary base. Somewhere in the 90s I bought new plastic jaws for it. They have never been used.

Only snag I have with it is that I have to keep a big-ish screw driver with it to do the rotating thing.

I had forgotten about removing the front jaws and putting then in from the ‘back’ to hold wider things. Thanks for reminding me

Rdgs

Dick

Army paper be blowed. Get the naval stuff. It is 2” (50.8mm) wider to allow for the roll of the ship.