Member postings for Gary Wooding

Thanks Gordon, but I did say that the photo was that of the existing receiver.

I have an Intergas boiler controlled by a Honeywell CM927 room thermostat. Its been fine for a good number of years but, with the rise in gas prices, I decided to reprogram it; but the display has gone wrong - I can't see anything of use. It appears to be a well known problem. The CM927 is no longer available so I need a replacement, but what one?

I'm tempted by the Tado V3 starter, but know absolutely nothing about it. I think it uses a phone app for programming and comes with an appropriate receiver to replace the existing one, a photo of which is below. I've been unable to find an on-line user manual, all I have found is the usual vague gee-whiz advertising stuff.

Another possible replacement is the Adept T2R, but again no really useful information like the programming facilities.

Can anyone shed some useful light please? I'm open to suggestions.

Edited By Gary Wooding on 04/10/2022 10:50:59

Continued...

I then lofted the two teeth towards the small rectangle in the centre.

Because the in/out sloping parts were now separate from the two cylindrical parts I could create an intersection of one tooth and the in-slope section, and the other with the out-slope section.

I could then do a circular pattern of the two teeth and then combine then with one of the cylindrical parts. That completed the job.

I first created sketch of two versions of the profile of the blade; one with the lip curving out and the other with the lip curving in.

Then each profile was revolved to create two bodies in the same location. Here's the one for the top sloping out.

A new sketch was then drawn from the top. This was to get the correct angle for the pairs of teeth - I chose 10 pairs.

I then created a workplane offset from the original sketch, but through the line defining the angle of the previous sketch.

I then cut then created a workplane to cut the two bodies along the horizontal line of that sketch. This created 4 bodies: two copies of the cylindrical parts, and one each of the in/out sloping parts.

Here's my effort in Fusion.

On my 2B I kept the original 3ph motor, converted it to delta by splitting the star point, and run it with a VFD. This gives me a speed range from about 30-2800 rpm. I've not experienced problem using carbide tooling, and it makes tapping under power a doddle.

I've been with TalkTalk for a number of years. I get a landline number and a 38Mb broadband service for less than £24/mth. But the landline calls are charged extra, not that I ever use the landline for making calls, its only for receiving calls, or emergencies. I use Lebara for my mobile stuff - it costs £4.99/mth and I've never managed to use up all my calls or data allowance.

I've had no problems with TalkTalk or Lebara. It pays to shop around.

Here's a photo of the half-nut on my Centec 2B. I hope it helps.

Possibly places that make doll's houses?

No typo. On my MK3 VH the drawbar is not retained in any way. After unscrewing it from the tool-holder/chuck whatever, it is free to be removed. I suspect that my VH isn't standard because its ISO30. With ISO30 a gentle tap is all that's required to free the tool from the taper - there is no need to forcibly eject the drawbar.

The drawbar is just the long piece above the ruler. The spring sits on top of the quill and is not part of the drawbar at all, it is held in place by the circular nut. The nut is removed by the spanner, which is only required if you need to remove the quill for some reason.

Nice track and models, and I loved the steam powered skateboard.

I've enjoyed the one or two episodes that I found by accident, and was impressed by Siddy's knowledge and enthusiasm. I remember when Mornington Crescent was a station, did they ever include it in a program?

According to my mother, she heard the sound of Bow Bells ringing when I was born. That was at St Barts hospital before the war - and would make me a true cockney.

Hmm, the reviews on Amazon were not encouraging.

Where did the 0.8 come from? Shouldn't it be 0.16? Total volume = pi x 0.16 x 600 = 301.6cc = 2925.5gm

Instead of a section of an old tin can, how about filing a little groove around it, deep enough to accept a length of wire (stainless, copper, whatever) then inserting the wire - twist the ends together for added strength. Then covering it with Araldite - sort of like reinforced concrete. I've successfully repaired several hard plastic items using this technique.

The cover content is fine for me: what I don't like is the high gloss finish. Its too slippery.

Where did you £8?

THIS site says that the free version can be renewed on a 3-year basis.

Nicely produced video with a beautiful track and super models. Well worth watching.