Member postings for Ian Parkin

I did the same on my old student to fit a piston type tool post

I cut off the pillar and drilled and tapped for the right size stud (16mm IIRC)

worked well for 5 years then I bought a newer student with the newer style topslide

Ian

So really in answer to my original question we dont actually completely make a single manual lathe in this country ?

and even cnc or so lathes are made from far eastern castings

Are new myfords made completely in the uk? if indeed there are any new ones (other than old stock)

DSG are making 1 lathe for stock so they are hardly a big player for smaller lathes

So does anyone have any idea how much a new colchester lathe is or a dean smith and grace?

My son in law was admiring my colchester student lathe and asked do we as a nation make any lathes now such as this?

How much was a student lathe when it was new? and how much would a british made lathe be now

Ian

Heres a picture of I presume a genuine one off a student lathe

I use a MT 2 test bar when fitting the chuck

knock the test bar into the hole.... place chuck over test bar... tighten chuck onto bar... fasten chuck to RT

knock out test bar from behind

Ian

Hit it with a copper or lead hammer. Rubber won't work

I would always fit the cutter in the smallest collet that way you only have to tighten a little rather than squashing up a whole mm

so 10mm shank goes in a 9-10mm collet

Ian

I had my listing words and photographs for a motorcycle stolen and then listed in the remote places you mentioned

I was notified by someone who had been watching my listing

he ( the villian) was asking roughly half what it was worth

I suppose some would buy unseen and have it transported to themselves.

But I'm interested in why paypal wont help?

as I understand if you dont get your goods you get refunded

Ian

John

It was a long time ago 23 years now

I'll have a look at my lathe as see if I can remember

I think after removing the apron the saddle lifted off vertically

Ian

I dismantled mine to put it into a celler workshop 23 years ago

I cant remember anything being particularly difficult to do

It left the base cabinet as one with motor and switch gear installed

bed ,headstock, gearbox saddle, tailstock and back panel as parts

Ian

You are doing great work on the ner a car

Have you a completion date?

Heres a pic of mine

and now

Edited By Ian Parkin on 25/04/2014 08:16:34

Edited By Ian Parkin on 25/04/2014 08:19:46

Edited By Ian Parkin on 25/04/2014 08:21:40

Edited By Ian Parkin on 25/04/2014 08:26:21

Many thanks Barry ordered one just now

Ian

I can find them on us ebay or amazon at a reasonable price but the shippings a killer

Whats teh name of this one shot oiler?

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-sieg-kx3s-cnc-mill

Its in the pictures of the side of the mill

I could use a couple if I can find them for sale

anyone any ideas on a suppier or what to search for

Ian

It,s not something like a 2 start thread?

making adjustment quicker?

pitches will line up but a standard single start nut wont go on

I have done it to 2 tables now a vertex 8 inch and a smaller 4 inch one

both with nema 34 motors with 1:2 gearing with a drive belt

both work well and I couldnt wish for more power or speed

Ian

I have a RDG version of this mill

after I had only had for about a month the gear stripped upon investigation the gear change mech had its detent drilled in the wrong position so the gears were only partially in mesh( about a 1/4 in mesh)

Made a new detent plate and problem solved..

I fitted a seig power drive to my mill on the x axis and a parvelux geared motor to the z axis its transformed the machine heres a couple of pics of the power feed

The coupling fits where the handwheel was so it has a bore of 12mm for the plain keyed area then a 8mm thread to pull it on then a grub screw to hold it tight ( that indexed so it goes down the keyway)

the other end has a 10mm hole with another coupling to fit to the tongue coming out of the motor unit this means that just undoing the grubscrew there the motor unit could be taken out of action.

However since doing it I've not need to move manually...its possible to overrun the motor and gearbox.

The on off switch on the power unit was on the variable speed pot so I brought the wires out to a large switch on top so now the speed stays set constant and just use the top mounted switch and the reverse/forward switch. I didnt bother mounting the limit switch as I dont tend to leave the machine whilst running.

Whilst using the quick advance button the whole machine vibrated massively it took me quite a while to realise to remove the hand grip knob out of the other ends hand wheel ( DOH !!! )

I did wonder about guarding the coupling area to stop rags /sleeves getting caught but decided not to

Edited By Ian Parkin on 18/06/2013 09:24:37

I'm about a mile from your workplace if you want to drop in after work

Ian

If sheffields not to far i'm happy to help you

Ian