Member postings for _Paul_

The later Boxfords were 5" centre height and as such require a 5" steady, looks like you may have acquired a steady for the earlier 4-1/2"

Paul

Just found this Quorn Tool Grinder on Ebay only has a couple of hours to go though.

Paul

Just to add one to the list.....get me a box of 1/2" holes....

It's my choice how anonymous I choose to be.....

Hi Dave,

The Arc Screless vice has been great the only criticism I could make is the fact it only has two mounting points (slots) at the ends, I wanted to mount mine at 90 degrees to the table so had to manufacture some "Dogs" to fit in the side holes.

It's nice not to have the kind of "compound" errors which can creep in when removing and replacing parts in a "standard" vice, i've not needed to use a deadblow hammer for weeks now!

Paul

The X axis leadscrew nut in my old Geo. Taylor Mill was badly worn with over 0.050" backlash, I looked at buying replacement 10 TPI Acme stock and a new nut with a view of machining to suit.

Then I came across this thread Acetal leadscew Nuts the easy way with nothing to lose other than the small cost of some Acetal bar I tried it, that was some months ago the machine has less than 0.002" backlash now and is very smooth to use.

It was surprisingly easy to do.

I now intend to do the same with the Y axis.

Regards

Paul

In my youth I used to re-line British motorcycle clutch friction plates with cork which I stuck on with Araldite (only the original version available then).

Wonder if you can still get the thin sheets of cork? my old Kawasaki needs a new clutch and I dont fancy the £30-40 for a set of friction plates......

Regards

Paul

I have one of Arc Euro Trades precision vices its a very nice and accurate piece of kit and exceptional value for the money. It's a pleasure to use.

The only drawback I found was mounting, as the mounting slots (there are only 2) are at the ends and I wanted to mount my vice at 90 degrees to the table I got around it by making some "dogs" to sit in the side holes.

Regards

Paul

As the Boxford is based on the South Bend lathe another good group is the Yahoo South Bend Lathe Group http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/

Paul

Edited By _Paul_ on 04/04/2012 08:55:20

I like to use Molybdenum (CV Joint) grease in my old 1953 model "A" spindle bearings I also use T68 slideway oil for the bed/carriage/crosslide & ISO 32 hydraulic oil for the gearbox & spindle.

Used genuine Boxford slotted cross slides do appear on Ebay quite regularly theres a single slot one up on there now starting at £50 Ebay Cross Slide it's exactly the same single slot type as the one I have, the later machines have three slots in theirs someone on here very kindly gave me the dimensions & a diagram of the other two slots which I plan to machine at some point.

Regards

Paul

Thats an awful lot of filing, can't you make a composite item in steel? would have more mass too.

These blocks are very nice just had a pair delivered from Arc EuroTrade, no more getting out & setting up the dividing head to machine that replacement for your lost chuck key.

Paul

WD40 has worked very well for me as a lubricant when cutting/milling aluminium, I buy it by the gallon gallon and frugally dispense with a small poly bottle (ex SWMBO's hair dye) fitted with an old "Biro" refill as a spout.

No lubricant and I find it soon forms a deposit on the cutting tool giving a poor finish.

I have'nt seen parraffin anywhere locally for some time now and if I remember when I last bought it it was expensive, I still remember the days of filling up the old "Valor" heater with I as a kid when it was probably only coppers for a gallon.

Regards

Paul

If noise is still an issue for you you may wish to reconsider the air shears as they are not quiet I have some and the noise is about the same as the averaqge air ratchet or air drill.

You might be lucky to find an Aldi store that has some left my two local ones sold out within a day.

Paul

Looks like brass?

I might have made a die block for the flypress perhaps not with all the holes say an inches worth then press index press..... ad infinitum

Paul

What does the manufacturer recommend for the resistance of the pot?, I know the value for my Teco-Westinghouse 2HP is 10k.

What kind of pot did you use? mine calls for a Linear one.

Paul

Nibblers are very noisy and the swarf they produce is very sharp/painful, If youre really concerned about the noise the only way you are going to make no noise is to use hand tools, I have got an old Monodex which will cut flat car panels and leave a reasonable edge with minimal distortion but I find it very tiring on my hands.

Paul

Mine was OK

For my 2 pennorth I would say buy an older reputable make any one of the ones Mac quotes, then trot along to Arc Eurotrade and buy a £77 precision vice (screwless type).

My first experience with an "offshore" drill press was some 20+ years ago I bought a cheap "NuTool" 5 speed drill press....what a waste of money it must have had around 1/8" of play with the quill fully extended.

I see that most of the ones you see in B&Q & Wickes etc. still use that same basic "NuTool" design (and very similar castings).

I eventually bought a 12 speed drill from Warco OK it's an import but this is very nice quality, but that was some time ago when they were based in Shere and only had a three digit phone number!

I finally got around to doing something with the NuTool drill and put a slitting saw through the casting and fitted a pinch bolt which fixed the play but while cutting the slot in it I had a good chance to see how really poor quality the castings etc. were.

Regards

Paul

Judging from the amount of hand filing marks the banjo on my Grayson lathe is home made and from what appears to be Phosphor Bronze, if youre feeling really adventurous you could attempt something similar perhaps in aluminium?

As Ady says it dosent have that much stress and if you think about it the tiny cast iron gear teeth would probably shear off before you damage a softer aluminium banjo.

regards

Paul