Here is a list of all the postings Gordon A has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: New or Second Hand Lathe? |
21/02/2011 00:04:36 |
Greetings Roger, If you are tempted by a used Myford, have a look at this, it may help. http://www.myford.com/pdf_files/Inspection-Guide-01.pdf Regards, Gordon. |
Thread: Condensation in workshops |
06/02/2011 21:17:10 |
Greetings Corbrae, It is interesting that you are getting rid of your steel roof when the weather gets better. I will be replacing my rotting wooden shed/workshop roof with profiled steel sheeting when the weather gets better! I don't know what you intend to use as a replacement for your roof, but maybe you could retain the existing if it is in good condition and invest in better insulation instead. I will be using "ThermaWrap" as a vapour barrier and additional insulation (similar products are available). I was surprised to discover that despite being 4mm thick, the manufacturer claims insulation properties equivalent to 65mm of polystyrene! Another insulation product I have used is Celotex ( Kingspan is a similar product). This is a dense rigid foam sheet with aluminium foil either side that has very good insulating properties and available in a range of thicknesses. Apologies if you have already looked at these products, they are not cheap, but this is the route I am taking to help keeping precious tools and equipment as free as possible of the dreaded metal mould . Does anyone out there remember a magazine article some years ago on making a lathe bed heater to prevent condensation? Basically as I recall, it was a small number of high wattage resistors bolted to a sheet of aluminium which was bolted to the machine bed. This arrangement was powered by a low voltage source with the intention of maintaining the lathe (or miller, or shaper etc.) at slightly above ambient temperature when the workshop was "resting". Regards, Gordon A |
Thread: Which slideway oil is best? |
27/01/2011 21:02:50 |
Hi Peter, A little bit of extra information on Hallett Oils. Richard Hallett is retiring and has passed the business on to Caldo Oils; although he will remain in a consultative role for a few months to assist the transfer. Hopefully the products and prices will remain.! Regards, Gordon A. |
Thread: Machining Between Centres |
02/01/2011 23:37:51 |
Hi Keith, Would it be possible to use the flange that the chuck bolts to as the drive after removing the chuck? If you secured a short bolt into one of the holes in the drive flange that holds the chuck; putting a nut on either side of the flange to secure the bolt, could you not then use that as the drive pin for the carrier? Sorry, but I am not familiar with your lathe, but one of my neighbours has a similar but larger far eastern machine, and this is how he overcomes the problem. Gordon. |
Thread: ML7 Tight spindle |
29/12/2010 09:08:25 |
Hi Tony, You could try ringing Myford on + 44 (0)1159 254 222. They have given me advice over the phone in the past. Gordon. |
Thread: Footplate Experience Recommendations |
28/12/2010 00:37:41 |
Greetings Linda, When you mention tank, do you mean a tank engine or a tracked vehicle with a big gun? I've done two footplate experiences on the Severn Valley; they tend to use a tender engine as there is more room on the footplate. Both occasions were a most enjoyable half day, and the people were very friendly and helpful. The steam experience did involve a turn with the shovel, but you can be excused if you don't feel up to it. Gordon. |
Thread: Chuck Salvage? |
23/12/2010 01:01:00 |
I have had good results in the past with the electrolysis method, but have used white vinegar on other occasions, just another mild acid (acetic). The type that SWMBO gets me is probably just an uncoloured version of the type that accompanies fish and chips ! |
Thread: You are going to the Model Engineer Exhibition aren't you? |
08/12/2010 22:12:04 |
It seems like the majority of people replying to the post will be going on Friday. Please leave me some goodies for Saturday! It was a tough decision though, will miss seeing the Castle out of Birmingham Moor Street's "new" bay platform on Saturday morning. Just can't face driving on the the M40 and M25 on Friday. Gordon. |
Thread: lathe belt |
06/12/2010 22:08:23 |
Prior to parting company with my Hobby 818 lathe, I was planning to install a countershaft driven by a poly-V belt in order to reduce its bottom speed from 250 rev/min to something more acceptable. I obtained a suitable belt from a local independent electrical shop specialising in domestic appliance spares. The use of this type of belt in washing machines, dryers, vacuum cleaners etc is not uncommon. Just food for thought. Gordon. |
05/12/2010 00:14:53 |
Peter, Thank you for your interest, but there is very little similarity between the Hobby 818 that I owned and the Mashstroy in the picture to which you refer. Mine looked similar to the Emco Compact 8, but was much more basic. The bed was similar to the Mashstroy in that it had a combination of flat and vee form, but the saddle and tailstock ran on the outer flat parts with the centre vee section preventing lifting of both. The Gates belt ran directly from the motor to the spindle pulley with no countershaft, giving 4 direct speeds from 250 to 1700 rev/min. It did however have the advantage of a Myford type spindle nose which made accessories easy to source. I did once make a half-hearted attempt to trace the origin of this machine, but as I was at least the third owner, I assumed that Axminster had stopped selling this model long ago. Gordon. |
03/12/2010 18:34:23 |
Greetings Gordon. I had a similar problem about 5 years ago with an Axminster "Hobby 818" lathe that used a very narrow Gates belt of vee form. My solution was to take the belt to various local suppliers of belts and bearings etc. Eventually found a helpful young man who took the trouble to take measurements and delve into the catalogues, I think it may have been at BSL or Brammer, (they may be the same company). Took a couple of weeks to arrive and cost about £13 for a pair. (1 as a spare). Could you do a similar thing? I suppose I am lucky that there are still some vestiges of engineering here in the (de)industrialised West Midlands. Hope you have similar opportunities. Gordon. |
Thread: Tears as last Harrier jets leave Ark Royal |
28/11/2010 23:21:46 |
I once heard a story about the APT. Apparently it would make passengers feel sick, but only in daylight ! According to the story, the tilt mechanism was so good that during daylight the train could be seen to be tilting by those on board, but there was no tilt sensation from the balance receptors in the inner ear, hence a feeling of nausea. This of course did not happen in the dark. Believe it if you will ! I still however believe that we are (or were) a great nation of innovation....just cr*p at turning it to our advantage! |
Thread: Hydraulic Oil Supplier |
14/09/2010 23:27:10 |
Don't know where you are situated, but Hallett oils in Wolverhampton (01902 745800) are very helpful. (no connection except as satisfied customer) |
Thread: Myford ML7 Long Cross Slide |
07/08/2010 10:29:03 |
Stirling, To add detail to David's post, If there is not a clearance hole for the new feedscrew at the back of the saddle, you will have to make one in line with the hole for the feedscrew nut. I had the same problem some time ago and phoned Myford for advice. Apparently, some ML7's had this hole others not. the diameter of the required hole is 7/16" (approx 10mm). You have 3 options; 1) If you are happy to remove the saddle, you transfer the coordinates of the centre of the feedscrew nut hole to the back of the saddle, set it up on your milling/drillng machine and produce the hole. 2) If you are not happy to remove the saddle but you have access to the back of the lathe, you can mark out and then carefully drill the hole by hand. 3) If like me, the back is not accessible, I turned a long bush to be a snug push fit in the feedscrew hole, with an internal diameter to take the required drill. Using a variable speed electric hand drill and a long series 7/16" drill I very carefully drilled through the rear of the saddle from the inside. Be aware that the edge of the hole comes very close to the top face of the saddle. After carefully cleaning, the advice from Myford is to fit the new cross slide without the feedscrew and nut and adjust the gib screws for best fit first. I hope this helps, it worked for me, and the long slide has proved extremely useful. Regards, Gordon. ![]() |
Thread: Ball joint/rose joint |
05/08/2010 19:54:27 |
Geoff, Try this place. www.mcgillmotorsports.co.uk/ Regards, Gordon. |
Thread: What price frustration? |
05/08/2010 16:39:51 |
The last 2 model engineer exhibitions I have been to where Myford have been in attendance, there were 2 people of far eastern origin helping on the stand. Is there a hidden message here? |
Thread: Hand scraping |
23/02/2010 21:46:22 |
This is my first post on any forum so please forgive an lack of etiquette. I have tried finishing flat surfaces by scraping with a modicum of success, and understand the principle of the high spots picking up the engineers blue from the reference plate. However, researching "scraping in" of bearings on the interweb, I came across a site suggesting that after blueing a shaft and turning it in the bearing, the blue will be forced into the low spots, leaving the clear areas to be scraped. Both methods sound logical, but I am having difficulty accepting that both seemingly inverse theories are correct. Please can anyone help clear my fog of confusion. Gordon. |
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