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Member postings for Nicholas Farr

Here is a list of all the postings Nicholas Farr has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Wheel Dressing
08/09/2011 07:03:18
Hi, trueing and achieving a flat face on an off hand grinder can be done using a star wheel, using the mthod described by Nigel Parkinson. The star dresser should be dipped in water before and during use, as this will lubricate it and keep it cool and will help keep the dust down. The grinding rest has to be in good order of course.
 
Below is an extract from my abrasive wheel regulations course.
 

Regards Nick

 

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 08/09/2011 07:05:07

Thread: 1in Henry Greenley 1930's
01/09/2011 20:21:29
Hi Michael, A PM is a personal message. Once you have logged on, look in "My Account" top left hand corner, and go down to my messages.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Proof reading, what proof reading ?
30/08/2011 04:01:14
Hi Andrew, I can understand the frustrations about ground retrievals to a little extent. A couple of years ago I went on a Virgin Hot Air balloon trip, starting from Cambridge Golf Club near Longstanton, we went with the wind (as balloons do) passing over Willingham and ending up in a cow field at Bluntisham. There were rather a lot of cows interested in watching us all folding up the balloon whilst waiting for the retrieval team to arrive, but then having to wait about an hour, until they could find the farmer with the keys to the gates to get the gear and us off the field. One or two of the ladies were a bit concerned about all the inquisitiveness of the cows, but I don't think they were any real threat.
 
Below is a picture I took when we were stationary at a 1000 ft, looking towards Needingworth in the distance, with Over on the right foreground and Swavesey on the left, where you can see the Cambridge guided busway passing through.
 

Regards Nick.
 
P.S. sorry Eric, I know this is a bit OT, just a little light hearted bit of info.

 

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 30/08/2011 04:04:12

Thread: Grayson Lathe
29/08/2011 09:52:51
Hi Mike, have you looked at the other lathes mentioned in the link, i.e. the Granville, Randa and the Warwick. These show pictures with motor arrangements on them. One of the Randa photos quotes a 1/3 HP (250 ish Watt) motor. I have my late farthers Randa type B lathe, which is drivn by an old 1/4 HP washing machine motor, and it copes without any problems.
 
All these lathes are very much the same sort of size and basic design, as was the Pools special.
 
Regards Nick.
28/08/2011 20:16:17
Hi Mike, this link may help you, thats if you haven't tried it already.
 
 
Regards Nick
Thread: Office Laminator - Benefits in the Workshop
22/08/2011 20:54:01
Hi, laminators are also useful for making home made information plates and the like, for your machines etc., like the one in the photo below.
 
 
This one was made with a credit card size pouch, and fixed with double sided tape.
 
Regards Nick.

 

 

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 22/08/2011 21:04:46

Thread: Tang type Morse Taper cutter
14/08/2011 19:38:49
Posted by JasonB on 14/08/2011 16:48:24:
I'd say the ones in your photo are machine reamers as they have a negative helix.unless the picture has been reversed.
 
The ones in Sparey's book are definately mills as there is a picture of him using the vertical slide to mill a hornblock.
 
J
 
Hi Jason, I think you may be correct about the ones in my photo. I must admit I didn't pay any attention to the negative helix, as I've said I never used them.
 
The one in the foreground is 7/16" dia' and the cutting edges are 15/16" long and they all have speedicut H S. 18 stamped on them.
 
Regards Nick.
14/08/2011 15:30:45
Hi Oliver, I think Michael Cox may be on the right track. Below is an avert from a 1963 George Hatch general catalogue, showing HSS MT counterbores with a tang, and a photo of three tanged 1 MT counterbores by F.B. TOOLS, that I aquired amoung some other cutters some while ago. You will notice the helix more akin to a reamer than an end mill.
 
 

 
 
I have never used these myself BTW.
 
Regards Nick.

 

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 14/08/2011 15:36:53

Thread: Temporary Storage Workshop Contents
14/08/2011 14:17:04
Hi Keith, I would agree with John's method, but will stress the importance of the use of dunnage, with at least 2" thick but 4" to 6" would be better. Whatever you do, don't stand anything derectly on the ground, and keep any weeds ect. at bay around them, ventilalation is important. If you can devise a method of holding the tarpaulin off the machines, this will also help, and try not to let rain puddles to build up on your tarpaulins.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: MEW 180
06/08/2011 12:45:18
Hi,
MEW 179 screen dump looks like this with a selected page/s print option
 
 
and MEW 180 screen dump looks like this without a selected page/s print option
 

You can print a single page from both of them when the page requiered is zoomed in on.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Don't assume the obvious
30/07/2011 11:36:13
Hi, Mick you bet me to it. But I do agree with John, however the chemical symbol for Phosphorus is P so PB for Phosphor Bronze could well be argued, maybe it sould have been writtin as P/B.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Can Anyone Help Identify This Gear Please
27/07/2011 20:14:10
Hi Phil, try this thread.
 
 
Thread: Rust and how to remove it.
26/07/2011 23:17:47
Hi, an over night soak in a solution washing soda should clean it, will clean out the teapot nicely as well, without the need for too much elbow grease. Just give it a good rinse next morning, and repeat if needed.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Clarity of a "slide-rest tool holder"
25/07/2011 22:47:19
Hi, I understood that this series was intentionally going to be printed as it was originally printed, if nothing else it will give an insight to newcomers how models were made in the past, and the tooling that was available at the time. It has the potential to teach people wrangles, that they may not otherwise think of, to achieve a result on an awkward job, with limited equipment. Not everyone can afford to buy milling machines ect., not even second hand.
 
Nobody is being forced to build this locomotive; are they?
 
Regards Nick.
24/07/2011 16:35:12
Posted by JasonB on 24/07/2011 12:07:18:
Can't see why it should be. As it stands its good for a beginner as it shows that you don't need milling machines, DROs etc to be able to produce a model. The Minnie in my avitar was all done on the lathe, without articles like LBSC and LC Mason I would not have know how to go about it.
 
The way he writes is useful to anyone as there as a lot of info there that can be applied to any form of model engineering there is a lot you can do with a file - no need to reach for milling machines, rotary tables and so on.
 
J
I have to agree with Jason, model engineering should cater for beginners, everyone's budgets, abilities and prefered methods, so if you know a more modern way of achieving the same result, and have the gear to do it, there is no reason why you can't use it.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Puzzled by the logic of LBSC
24/07/2011 16:14:56
Hi Eric, the elongated hole is in fact a lightening hole on the full sized engine, it's pupose is to cut down the weight of the frames in that area. Weather the model needs them or not, I don't know. The engine IMO would not look right without the lifting holes. I'm sure L.B.S.C. was right about the smoke deflector plates, but I'm sure he wouldn't have had any objections to anyone fitting them if they wished to do so.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Linked drive belts from RDG
24/07/2011 15:40:07
Posted by Gordon W on 24/07/2011 09:10:27:
Well the thought of watching.................... Matched belt sets are made for the job, even then they are never truly the same, and one belt will take more load, trying to get a set of link belts........................................

Hi, in my experience of multi-V-belt drives, even matched belts on brand new pulley's lined up correctly will not stay in line with each other, and there will always be some creep between them.
 
Modern V belts from well know manufacturers don't really need matching these days, if you get a set of belts with the same batch numbers, they will be all pretty much the same.
 
The link below will give you a bit more info on V belt drives.


http://www.fptgroup.com/fenner.asp?title=Friction-Belts&pageid=2558
 
Regards Nick.
 
P.S. I have no connection with the fpt group or any company by the name of Fenner.
23/07/2011 20:32:49

Hi, this link may interest you.
 
www.youtube.com/FennerDrives
 
The reason that link belts cut down on vibration is simply that they are all individual, conventional V belts have a continuous cord incorprated into the belt which transfers any vibration from one pulley to the other, this can't happen so well in the link belts as there is no continuous cord.
 
You may wish to check out www.fennerdrives.com/ also.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Slot drills
20/07/2011 00:07:03
Hi, in the article LBSC says, " I prefer home-made slot drills as they mow off the surplus metal much faster than any commercial endmill of regular pattern." He wasn't comparing the efficiency of home made slot drills with commercial slot drills.
 
I don't know when this article was written originally, but maybe slot drills weren't readily available then, and it is quite possible that LBSC was using a treadle powered lathe at the time.
 
I don't know how he made his slot drills BTW, maybe he used old twist drills that were worn/broken down to a sort length.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Washing machine drum bearings
17/07/2011 13:59:55
Hi Pailo, I have done them in the past, but the last machine I had for 23 years without trouble until the bearings went, and though changing the bearings would have been no big deal, (for me at least) it also had a mechanical seal to stop the water getting to the bearings. Anyhow the cost of a new seal and bearings V the age of the machine didn't make the effort worth while or make financial sense. But they are not normally difficult to change, the biggest part of the job is getting to them. If you do decide to change them, I would suggest taking photos as you proceed, because on some machines you may have to remove wires and pipes ect. from the outside of the drum casing. Photos before you take things off will help you put them back in the right place.
 
Regards Nick.
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