Member postings for HughE

Used PEM studs and clinch nuts a lots over the years, always had them inserted using correct tooling. I can highly reccommend them. The only failure was using aluminium ones (4mm) that shear easily, SS should have been called up on the drawing. Avdel also available with special tool for fitting from RS and Farnell, but mind your fingers.

Hugh

Honing oil avaible from Axminster PT. This stuff realy does make difference. Started using it a few years ago on woodworking tools as well what a difference it made to the finish. After polishing the ferrous parts coat with Metal Guard to stop any rust forming.

Andrew,

I have some Nicholson files from years back and they are still very good. I bought some about 8 years ago made in Brazil one was fine the other lasted 1 job before having nice shinny ends on the cutting edge, suspect they were rejects that should have found their way into the skip. Buy from somebody you can trust!

I was told to add chalk when filling ali which does help to prevent clogging.

Hugh

Great news Dave,

Having gone through the same 10 years ago I understand the situation. Plenty of rest and things to keep your mind active certainly helps. During my time off work got lots a of smal jobs sorted and luckily all the Fred Dibnha series were being repeated in the pm.

I never smoked or drank more than the odd tipple. I have a sneaking suspision that fumes from soldering and cleaning fluids used in the electronics industry had some thing to do with it. I do get annoyed when I see people recommending using old

engine oil for heat treatment etc as some addatives in the oil are highly toxic.

Regards Hugh.

Just before Wimbeldon station (south) you can just make out the Airfix name on a wall of the old factory.

Hi Richard,

Also try Ringwood Metal Fabrications on e-bay. Very helpful bunch.

Edited By JasonB on 19/11/2015 13:18:02

Hi kevin,

I dont believe its being held this year. No doubt Neil will expand on this.

Hugh

Retired yesterday. Looking forward getting back to the workshop. One blocker HI has produced list of things to be done. Might as well go back to work !

Bill,

Pennyfarthing Tools are in the Reading area. Used to be in Salisbury bought many tools from them in the past. Also MJ Engineering are inthe same area.

Good luck Hugh

I think there was an article to make a smaller version for restoring a main frame of an engine. Can't rember if it was MEW or ME.

Crimptool for bootlaces ferrules available from banggood at 13GBP. I purchased a set a while back thet are well made and do good job. Never looked back since.

As mentioned previously its important to select the correct one for the guage being used. Sets of ferrules are available from various suppliers such as CPC and RS. They are also available with various pin lengths.

I have just had to rewire a tractor were most terminations were faulty. all the faulty ones had been soldered by the past owner. Crimping was quick and made reassembly a doddle.

When using these bootlace ferulles check you have enough space for the stainrelief on the end to fit in the terminal block

I have 1Mitutoyu and 2 Lidle purchased ones batteries in the Lidle ones have lasted about 18 months Mitutoyu about 5 years. They last much longer with quality batteries. M&W mic has lasted 2 years so far. The bateries don,t like the cold though.

Welcome Charles. I inherted similar Myford from my fartherwhen he moved to NZ. The oil resevoir always leaked i cured this by unscrewing the bezel cleaning the face which a bit rough and added an O ring, never leaked since.As mentioned prevoiusly I removed the tailstock and saddle assembly and thoroughly cleaned them of any build up of crud. Next clean the bed paying special attention to the running surfaces on the underside.

For cleaning I found the accumulation of suds oil on the surfaces was best done with warm water and detergent. Dry thoroughly use WD40 to remove any moisture wipe dry then oil with correct grade of slideway oil.

Replace felt wipers on the saddle. get a copy of the Myford book I think by Ian Bradley

Good luck

Sorry about the fire. I recently had some stuff stolen and real bonus was that I had some photographs to prove the condition they were in. The insurance advised me to do this with all my tools etc as it speeds up claims and avoids quibbles. Good luck

Hi Steve

I used a piece of square bar from an old door lock brazed into a piece round bar. Still going strong 20years later with no signs of wear.

Don't use single brick or it will be damp and cold. Use thermal blocks (Thermalite) much quicker . However you will need to put a vapour barrier on the exterior surface, timber cladding or render. some of these are OK to use below ground I believe..

I built a small shed for under £2k using blocks and bricks for the first 500mm then used a timber frame. Feather edged cladding insulated with150mm rock wool and sterling board interior. Roof was the most expensive item £350 for the slates. Could have used profile sheeting at £200. If you can consider under floor heating keeps rust away and less tiring on the feet. Paint the floor with a light colour floor paint. sorry shed was 3 x 2.4 m

Good luck

Paul is spot on

when I started out in engineering we used to make pinch wheels for tape recorders. the rubber was bonded on to the shaft left in a freezer. Then ground down to the correct size finish was perfect May work with cork!

hugh