Member postings for bernard towers

After you have done your 4 facets put a secondary point angle in and your drills will last even longer!!

Out of interest flat drive belts are still made, they are made from a modern oil proof material and usually coloured green. Try transmission suppliers/ bearing suppliers like Hayley’s etc.

You could also mill the bottom inside edge from the toolholder, I believe they used to sell them already modified.

Why would you weaken the tip holder?

Best of luck by the way you can't beat the grin factor.

Spares are available for most old brit bikes BSA, Norton,Triumph Velocette and AJS seem the best catered for. A lot of the spares are cottage industry made, there is a lot less cheap foreign parts about now, they have killed themselves off by their reputation. I myself make chronometric internals and have done for 30 years thought it would die off before me but now I'm not so sure. Lockdown passed me by as so many people got round to that bike that had bee in there for 20 plus years. personally i would recommend 12v electrics and electronic ignition.

I bought a lovely piece of equipment from a reputable american supplier, nicely finished, painted etc. but wouldn't power up and on inspection found that the lovely paint finish was also a lovely HR for the earth conn. Easy fix but just proves that a 4 figure priced piece of equipment was never powered up on completion, which they confirmed, they only test the component parts before assembly!!!!

If only short lengths are screwcut why not use 33 and 34 tooth wheels on the output after the tumbler, I thought this was pretty standard practice?

Just out of interest my Indian had a cork float with the brass hinge fittings glued in with strengtheners that looked like brass panel pins glued in as well, but as time passed flooding was getting a problem so I sourced a new,new one from the states which is 3d machined in some sort of fuel proof closed cell foam, still with the fittings glued in and has not been a problem for over 12 years. Perhaps this material might be a possibility.

I’m with bill why would you not have one?

If you have to use easy start more than a couple of times you had better start looking for the real problem and yes I do speak from experience, 50+ years of it!

The circular spigot was available as a separate part, I have one which I use as a dust cap when the compound is taken off.

If you just want to do key ways why not make a cross drilling jig to fit the crosslide and do your key ways on that, which is the method I use. The jig is a robust piece of steel angle machined dead square with a piece of 3/4 x5/8 fixed to it horizontally at centre height. Bolt square to crosslide and machine V groove. Perfectly on centre and zero set up time. Can be tarted up a bit with front fence to aid squareness and if no t slots in crosslide make one of your fixingholes an arc slot so keys on tapers can be done or angular holes, only limited by your imagination. Best of luck.

Done the same for one of my bikes a few years ago and got the gear tables from machinery handbook. An interesting job and very satisfying.

Would a live tooling approach work, still using a travelling steady as well??

Not trying to put a damper on the comments above but nobody has mentioned the cutters! ARE THEY SHARP. I have seen people using cutters in the past that are only fit for the bin and they quite happily complain about poor finish and cutters moving.!!

I’m with J.H. I have sine bars and slips plus a wixey gauge, I’ll let you guess which one gets used the most!!!

As the mag is self contained you would have to draw wires from it internally, why would you want to do that?

Is it possible that your belt is too small a dia and only driving on the inside, if you get a belt a tight fit it will be driving on a larger surface area. Just a thought. I use them on UPT and t&c grinder with no problems.

Is this the one?. Works well once you are used to it, I fitted side cheeks to mine which are not on the very first drawings and a stop collar to set the depth.