Member postings for bernard towers

Im with Jason on this don't make it too complicated.

sorry Mike but you have missed the point. The lever gives you sensitivity and power if needed. On the point of clogging drill flutes they tend to get clogged when the swarf is fine not when the drill is cutting at its optimum where the swarf tends to be stiff and strong so follows the flutes more readily and and has been stated is easy to peck drill .

oilite blanks are still available from bearing suppliers

Not quite as quick as Windy (Happy Birthday) but have done a few miles on the bike today, not as warm as I thought, ended up with white fingers but the coffee was good!!

A two piece has to be the way to go especially from the No 2 MT size downwards. The Clarkson 2mt collet chuck has left hand threads on the back of the holder so after tightening the drawbar the Lh threaded nut was screwed up to the machine spindle increasing rigidity. I have a small mill no1 mt with a threaded nose so I have a nut on the spindle and bring that down to the collet chuck, same thing in revers to Clarkson. But all this is not needed if you go the two piece route.

Why don't you anodise its a simple process you only need weak sulphuric and a powers supply.

Eric

\Does the nail varnish only go onto the printed design or could you spray it on ?

I was a B O C customer for for 45 years and am now with Hobbyweld, wish I'd made the move earlier!!!

Who is LMS??

NT 3/4 hp on mine for the last 7 years and I haven't stalled it yet (and I do try). I machine a lot of stainless and it takes it in its stride.

the company I used last is Moore International, surprisingly cheap!!!

if you are threading in the vice your chances of a straight thread are pretty slim, much better to put the die holder against your work in the lathe and bring the tailstock to bear against the diestock, turn the chuck by hand whilst advancing the t/stock. obviously all this becomes uneccesary when you have completed your die holder!!!

Yes they are Warners, I have some but haven't tried them yet (quite expensive)

that means at least two of them are still in warranty!!!

Print edition page count ok.

Neil, Thanks not required as photos taken when job was originally done!

Photo could be handy.

As it is the socket part of the handle that most people have trouble making why not buy the handles and then make the new male piece to match you lathes threads, that way not altering the lathe.

That’s what the old boys used to do with a countersink bit to stop the chatter marks.

Update, pins are a press fit with NO shoulder and the smaller pin in the rear is a blanking plug for the oil hole