Member postings for bernard towers

I agree with Noel buy decent bearings and buy once.

I am in the process of making some er16 blocks so they can be used in the sherline. My only complaint with my er25 blocks is that I find them a bit on the short side a problem I hope to get over when doing the er16 version.

The amateurs lathe by Sparey for one but google gives you plenty of choice .

Any reason for not using 20 deg gears?. They are stronger and tooling is more commonly available.

coloured anodising is achieved after the anodising process is completed. As I understand it anodising that is going to be coloured is done at a higher amperage to make the pores larger to more readily accept the colour,

like Thor I use Hyd oil as it is less prone to drying out and its moisture repellence is second to none. you could also try 3 in 1 oil as it is a light machine oil that doesn't dry out.

to undo spring belts just put under a bit of tension and unscrew, never had any trouble with mine. you might have been a bit over zealous with your tightening.

Edited By bernard towers on 18/06/2022 11:48:23

All our vehicle locks and some were cat 5 security were always lubed with graphite from a puffer.

I would have thought if your locking screw was LH the chuck is 3/8 or 1/2 RH UNF. put a piece of bar in one of the chuck key holes arrest on the bench and give the bar a good whack it should loosen your chuck.

log in still SLOW on i pad MacBook and iMac !!!!!

log in is now taking an age

So they are matching other suppliers prices!

use collets and WD40 as a lube

has anyone had dealings with this site as they have taken my money but don't respond to emails?

I have to agree that it’s likely that it’s dwarf in the die and as it’s silver steel the swarf is slightly hardened causing your damage. I just wonder why you use silver steel to make screws?. From my own perspective it’s a horrible material for that sort of work. Most of the small screws that you buy are from an easily machined steel and if really necessary machine from a material that readily hardened EN8 , EN 16 etc. The other possibility is to use 303 or 304 st st.

The bolts in the picture do not look like mild steel as they are black which means they are likely to be HT of some strength or other from 8.8 upwards, that's maybe why you where having trouble getting a good finish. I have found that when turning these that a low mandrel speed helps.

I use a Draper one that can tell the difference between nails and screws and power cables

CHris. there is a copy of Bradleys book for sale on the home workshop site, super cheap.

Edited By bernard towers on 02/06/2022 22:40:52

Edited By bernard towers on 02/06/2022 22:41:19

Just came across this thread and am a little confused as you say that you use silicon carbide wheels. I have been under the impression for the last 40 plus years that that material is for soft materials and carbides but am ready to be told otherwise. and as for grinding on the side of the wheel is NO NO NO the reason being is that when using the front face the wheel is in compression but on the side you are trying to separate the bond. Ask Norton abrasives what they think.

Clive that's hardening by movement/vibration.