Member postings for Dalboy

Can I ask where you get yours from as the place I was ordering other things do not do Viton O rings only Nitrile

Edited By Dalboy on 05/05/2023 17:10:38

Thank you both for the information I can now order what I need

I am making a hit and miss engine from plans and need to order some bits and pieces and while I am doing so I may as well get some of the other bits for it and make the order up.

Anyway to the question for the piston ring it says use a Buno-N "O" ring is this a nitrile one or is there a more suitable one to get.

The second option they say use is a quad seal "x" type ring.

It does state that the engine gets barely warm when running

Edited By Dalboy on 04/05/2023 20:47:36

Thank you every one the item I was thinking of is the type that DC31k and Jason linked to. Yes they are expensive.

I do already own a Mitutoyo tube wall thickness micrometer. Like THIS ONE

I am also looking at the disc micrometers so I can measure groove sizes.

I am looking for the correct name of a micrometer which has a flat blade that can be used to measure for example behind a piece in the lathe to the face only needs to measure under 1".

It is so I can do a search for them. I do not have a picture as I don't know the correct name for it.

I had a cheap set of calipers which soon ended up having the tips rounded over and used for woodturning.

I was given a Mitutoyo set not digital which I used for a long time I then brought a set of Dasqua digital. Depending on whether I want to read the scale on the Mitutoyo set I use the Dasqua set.

If I want a very accurate reading then I use micrometers

I find that a saw like THIS does the jobs I need to cut and on the odd occasion when I need to cut something bigger a mini grinder or larger depending on what it is

It sound like an air lock where the fuel is taken out of the tank it causes a vacuum in the tank which in turn stops the fuel flowing. Most liquid fuel tanks have a small hole in the filler cap to prevent this.

Whether this applies to fuels like meths due to the high flammability nature is another matter.

Rob typed faster than me

Edited By Dalboy on 24/04/2023 10:09:52

The SC 4 jaw chucks for woodturning have different jaws than those designed for metal turning as the jaws have a much wider jaw face which form a complete circle at a set distance out of the fully closed position this is the ideal size of a spigot to give maximum grip.

Many also have interchangable jaws so allowing for larger spigots to be made to fit this is so larger pieces can be turned.

Metal working sc chucks have a very small contact area making it unsafe to use on wood as fibres compress and can lead to wood departing the chuck.

Look at this chuck as an example. There are a few exceptions but they are more specialist jaw types

I do own a set of carbide woodturning chisels which sit in the cupboard doing nothing( given to me) they have a 9mm square shaft and the screw from a very quick measurement is about 3mm. I think looking at them that the square one pictured below is not the correct tip fitted as the hole is way too big for the screw and it is only held in place by the countersunk part.

As you can see there is as much metal either side of the screw hole so I would not want to put a 6mm screw into a 10mm square shaft

I did try them when I first was given them but just can't get on with them. These only have a short shaft I would not use them in a deep bowl or deep hollow form as I could imagine that they would not take the forces put on them.

This one which is a small tipped one is a much better quality tool the bit is about 6mm diameter

Paul as a total novice myself some of what you say I found out myself from researching. I spent over a year looking at various machines before I even ordered mine. I have asked on here what many may think are stupid or simple questions. I found out in the end from both research and the answers I got on here and other model engineering sites.

Yes i did order a lathe and mill possibly oversize for what I intend to make but that is allowing some growth on my part (rather too big than too small).

I have also brought books and done a lot of reading I at least come into this hobby with opened eyes and knew some of the things I will encounter, I still have a lot to learn but will look into those as they turn up.

I brought a ER collet holder for my lathe and made my own backplate for it out of ali, now I am remaking this out of steel (Cast iron may have been better)

If you have questions then ask I was always told no question is stupid if you don't know even if afterwards the answer is staring at you. Yes I have asked those type of questions as I am sure many have also done

I think that something else to consider will these be used for shallow bowls or deep hollowing. This will also effect the cross section size of the bar used if deep hollowing then go a little larger which will then allow the size of hole you will need.

Personally I would use round bar which will allow you to turn the tip without the corners of a square bar from digging into the tool rest if you should get s catch

Edited By Dalboy on 21/04/2023 10:31:04

Many resin casters use a pressure pot to reduce the size of any air bubbles and once set they will not expand or cause the resin to go soft.

none of the pens that I have made using resin have either gone soft or exploded due to air bubbles expanding(some have exploded due to me doing something wrong)

I have cast polyester resin and the only reason it will not set correctly until much later than usual is if not enough hardener is used. Even then it will eventually set none of those have ever gone soft after it has hardened when it has got hot.

Not had any experience of some of the other types of resin but could imagine that they will eventually set if too little hardener is used.

When was this made it looks like a good depth of resin some do not like thick pours (over 2" depending on the resin) these are normally poured in small thicknesses then the next is poured this does need to be done at the right timing as if one layer is allowed to harden fully you will not get a good bond to the previous one.

Looking at the picture it appears to only have bubbled around the wood and not in the centre of the resin

I made this insert to fit into one of my draws, it would be so easy to add hinges and a lid. This was made from mahogany and then lined. You can buy sticky backed felt to line it with to protect the instrument.

It was marked out and then a router used to take out material for the micrometer to fit

Yes most of them

Did no one realize what the date it was yesterday when I posted this

I had to share this. As long as there are no leaks it should be fine for exhibits

This can be a confusing term as petro1heads post above compared to bernard towers post which are both called blueing.

See Clicksprings video.

Only had a little amount of time in the workshop but did manage to get the joint done.






With the cutter I used I needed to machine 1" from the centre line but when I offered up the front section as I was machining it slipped on at 1.0021 which I am happy with.



Screws which need to join them together will be done once the two parts are complete they are also aided with some JB Weld

Test fitted

Now to start machining the outsides down to size which have two protrusions on one side and one on the other.

Edited By Dalboy on 27/03/2023 18:48:54