Member postings for Pat Bravery

I have removed the magneto and stripped the points and bakelite cap. The terminal screws were seized and corroded and I replaced the HT links as there was no continuity probably because of the corrosion and reassembled it. I fitted a new sparkplug which I secured against the magneto body and spun it with a cordless drill, hey presto a beautiful spark, sadly it soon faded and now there is the faintest of sparks. I will strip it again tomorrow just in case I have missed something. The magneto is a Lucas GJ4 which was fitted to tractors as Martin suggested. The easy answer is to get the correct magneto but the museum relies on volunteers and donations so the cash is just not there to fully restore the engine, our aim is just to get it running as an exhibit. I have attached photo's. Regards Pat

Hi Martin, Thank you so much for your reply, that certainly explains the links which I realise now are for HT leads. I was waiting for a diagram before taking it to bits but I will press ahead later in the week with it when I next go to the museum, it can't be that complicated and I did play with 50's motor cycles. I will post the photo's. PM also sent if I can work out how to do it, again many thanks, Pat

I have finally got back to looking at the Bamford engine with a view to getting running, I am told that it has run in this condition in spite of it being a mismatched collection of bits. The initial problem is that there is no spark, the HT lead seems to be wrong in that it comes from the body of the magneto rather than the bakelite cap, the points look OK. Before I remove the magneto I would like to have a diagram of the layout. The magneto is a Lucas and seems to be a GA or GJ type. If anyone has some information I would be very grateful. Regards Pat

Thanks for that, I will have another look at it later in the week as I am away for a few days. I do appreciate your advice and you have probably saved me from blundering into the job. I intend to recheck all measurements and if the readings are still the same I will still very lightly ream the tail stock MT2 socket on the bench to eliminate ovality and if the error is still there I will take the bottom tailstock plate off and skim the .18mm off the topside of it. I will report back probably next weekend. Once again thanks to everyone for the advice, regards Pat

I have had another look at the tail stock and inspected the MT2 socket and can see nothing obvious however I fully extended the barrel to 60mm and ran the DTI along the top and it is perfectly collinear so the fault must be with the MT2 socket. Could I fit a MT2 reamer into the chuck and gently feed it into the socket, my thinking is that it must then be in line with the head stock or should I remove the barrel and reamer it on the bench, ant thoughts would be appreciated. Regards Pat

Thank you all very much for your replies and suggestions, I fitted the test bar between the two centre's and locked the tailstock and the barrel so there was no movement, checked the headstock bearings for any lift and adjusted the tailstock laterally with the DTI on the top slide and the barrel about halfway which went very well and I am satisfied with that measurement, then I decided to check the horizontal along the top of the test bar using the same DTI and found the discrepancy. Tomorrow I will have a closer look at the MT's, I did clean them with a rag but will be worth a closer look. I think that the answer will be in something that I have overlooked so I will have another go tomorrow and report back. I have had the lathe about 3 years and only use it occasionally so there should not be much wear on the slides and all the other adjustments are about right. Once again thanks everyone for you suggestions, regards Pat

I have got an Amadeal CJ18A mini lathe and I put an 8 inch test bar in between a 3MT in the chuck spindle and a 2MT in the tail stock whereby I was able to adjust the tail stock quite easily. Then I decided to check the test bar for horizontal and found that the DTI show that the tail stock is higher, over the 8 inches, it rises by 0.18mm. I have stripped the tail stock and checked for swarf and burrs and anything that could cause it and reassembled it dry and I still get the same result. The lathe has not had much use so it should not be caused by wear, any ideas? I could put a shim under the headstock I suppose but am I missing something. Thanks Pat

Has anyone tried to get rid of a half full tin of paint at the local dump, ours in Caister will not take the tin unless it is completely empty. When I asked why all I got was a shrug of the shoulder, and I thought that it was a recycling centre, so what do we do with these tins, put them in the household rubbish?

Pat

I have just bought an Aldi bandsaw and can't fault it, I saw the video on youtube regarding the poor quality vice, maybe I was lucky as my one is working perfectly, the wear in the vice is adjustable. There is a 3 year warranty as well. Regards Pat

Thank you for the above very helpful information, the museum is at Repps with Bastwick about 10 miles north of Great Yarmouth. I spent many years working on Londons buses and thought that I knew about engines but it seems I have a lot more to learn. All help is appreciated. Regards Pat

Hello, I have recently joined a Men in Sheds group at the Wind Energy Museum in N Norfolk and we are restoring old associated machinery amongst which is a Bamford hit & miss stationary engine which has not run for 8 or 9 years. I have checked it over and the compression is good but the name plate is missing so we can't identify the model, can anyone help? I have posted photo's in my album. I have looked at several pictures on the computer and there are very similar engines but the magneto is in a different place. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Andrew, What part of Norfolk are you? I am near Hemsby. Regards Pat

Hi Dave, I have done that mod on my Champion 16, if you look on the Chester forum you will see how I did it, it is much easier to raise and lower the head now. I also motorised the table wit a windscreen wiper motor which suits my needs but a stepper would probably be better. Keep us posted, regards Pat

I ordered some chuck keys from Arc Eurotrade on Friday and they arrived this morning, impressive service. Your key is probably a 040-010-00321, check their website and check. Regards Pat

If you enter CL300 into the search keyword box at the top of the column then everything that you need to know is in there going back 9 years or so, I used it myself and found it very helpful. Pat

Having a closer look at your photo it does seem to be a lathe made up from other lathes bits, I would guess that the grey parts could be from an Amadeal CJ18 or similar and the yellow bits do indeed look as though they are from a CL300, some of the mechanical parts are interchangeable but the electrics are not. My CL300 before I sold it had a sticker on the circuit board showing the part number, could you get a photo of the circuit board? I am sure that it could be identified very quickly. Pat

Maybe if you could get a picture of the lathe it would help, you will need to read the previous posts which clearly explain the methods to test the electrics before doing anything else. Pat

Beat me to it, I don't recognise that lathe.

Edited By Pat Bravery on 10/04/2018 08:35:10

I assume that you mean Clarke CL300 lathe, there are plenty of posts on here about these circuit boards, keep us posted. Regards Pat

I have noticed that since Maplins was placed in administration some of the prices have gone up, for example I bought a bat detector (don't ask) for £19.99 on the day before the press release of Maplins difficulties and now the same item is on their website at £29.99, they will soon be out of trouble at this rate. Regards Pat

Welcome Dave from N Norfolk. Pat