Member postings for john fletcher 1

In former time when I rebuilt multi terminal rotary switches I used to do it in a large clear plastic bag then any wayward screws, clips etc would be captured. Also for Tim friend needs to write up a truth table for the switch, which will clearly shows which pair of contacts are open and which are closed 0 and 1. I don't know how to send a table on here, but if Tim sends me a PM with his email address I'll send him one, for single and three phase motors. klockner moeller switches are readily available from many electrical wholesalers. John

Many thanks Dave for the list of ingredients for PLUMBERS BLACK, I'll give it a try and let you know how I get on. In the means time I'll give Jewellers rouge a go. John

A friend very recently bought a small lathe and had a similar problem . Apparently under the saddle are two screws which were very loose, fortunately another friend turn up and he had exactly the same problem when he bought his small lathe. I'm told they need going over and tweeking before use, otherwise good for the price. John

Six years ago three of my friend bought via Ebay, Huanyang 2.2KW inverters for around £80 each, they haven't given any problems and are still working. The inverters are mounted in a ventilated, earthed metal boxes. More recently, one bought another for £45 for his surface grinder, so must been happy with his previous purchase. Whilst the inverters are rated as 2.2KW, the program can be easily adjusted to suit smaller motors currents. With a bit of guidance they made their own remotes. I should mention all three used second hand motors and it is usually very easy to reconnect a 3Ph motor from Star to Delta. Should you go along that route I can provide you with a copy of the program which they are using. John

First of all, have the motor insulation tested, its been out of use for some time and possibly partly full of damp saw dust, which needs sucking out, not blown in via damp compress air. Others have already have described which coloured wire goes to which terminal, but when you do an initial run test note the start winding pair which might need moving over (reversing), as the motor is running in wrong direction. You also need a proper motor starter with No volt release and overload protection, plenty of them available on the net or a club member. Nice looking machine, but be very careful with a saw bench, they can bight. John

When I was a boy during WW11, we went to visit a family in Sheffield and the lady hand made files. The blanks were restrained by a leather loop in which she put her foot, all mounted on a large wooden block or part of a tree. The ladies, several of them, used hammers and chisels to make the cuts, little mesters. It was a long room, three white washed walls and the other window was a series of windows. I was amazed how uniform and accurate the file teeth were. John

Used to de burr steel conduit when the conduit is cut with a hacksaw, it will fit into an electrician brace which has a much smaller sweep than a joiners. If the burrs are not removed they can damage or remove the insulation from the wires inside the conduit. These reamers can also used to open up outlet holes in press steel boxes as used by industrial electricians, and in switch panels. mine is 50+ years old. Slightly smaller size ones are available.John

Years ago when Men were men, plumbers would wipe a lead pipe and under ground cable jointers would make a live joint, they used "Plumbers Black" as a resist. It came In a Yellow tin, they would dribble, a drop of water on to the black and paint it onto the pipe to make a very neat connection. After the work, the residual would wash off. I live where it was made and sold, and have tried for several years to find out what it composed of. Certainly effective at high temperature and cheap in 1950/60's. I'm sure it would be a good alternative to Tippex and no solvent involved. Does a forum member know what the Black was composed of ? John

Its an induction motor which has two winding and a centrifugal switch. All the single phase induction motors I have seen have bars in the rotor laminations, front to rear ,some die cast aluminium other copper if very old, linked together forming a squirrel cage. this motor is an inside one The two windings rotate with the two slip rings attached. As I said, hopefully some pictures will soon be posted on here. John

Back to the Metropolitan Vicker single phase motor. Basically the motor is an inside out induction motor, the rotor is the stationary part and is constructed in a similar manner to what most folk would expect a normal induction motor to be, bars front to rear and short circuited. As the motor is not mine and some 150 miles away I can't take the motor to pieces to see the rotating member, regarding the manner in which the two windings are wound or located. Hopefully a series of picture will become available later. Pleased to say it is a runner. John

Steve 555, our Mens Shed (Mates) has several horizontal milling cutters for sale, all never been used but slightly tarnish. I'll send you a PM with my details. John

A friend has recently bought a Warco DM180 DRO lathe, I /we are told Grizzly have a much better manual than that which comes with the Warco lathe. Does any forum member know if Grizzly has an equivalent and what is its identification name/number please. John

I'm not much help here Andy, but to enable forum members to help you, you will have to tell them the make, model number and if possible a picture or two of your mill. you took some photos when it arrived so how about posting them on here. As Adrian above says it could just be one of those micro switches not closing properly. For the motor to run, all safety micro switches should be closed. John

Bob Stevenson, I've sent you a PM. John

Hello Ian P, its Phil on the other forum I'm trying to help..

I have the electric motor repairers ultimate manual and its comprehensive "Electric Motor Repair "by Robert Rosenberg and two other very good books by Karl Wilkinson. I can recommend all three to any one really interested in electric motors winding and its connections. Might be available on E bay but not cheap. Neither of them mention a single phase motor of this type. I'm sure some one will come up with the answer. John

Digressing a bit, some years ago there was an article in either ME or MEW on reconditioning your files. I have been doing this for years and for me it works OK. Briefly the article said, wire brush the file, poke out any stiff / awkward particles with a sharp scriber and submerge the file in car battery acid, and for that I use a tall plastic sweet jar. ( can get battery acid now days ?) Following the instructions, I leave the files over night in the acid and have a look at the progress in the morning, might give them a day longer if necessary. Next, with my long plastic gloves on I take the files out of the acid and give them a wash. Then I dry the files, using a hot air paint stripper, then give them an oiling, otherwise if you just leave the file after drying they rust very quickly. John

Definitely single phase motor as said by the details on the makers name plate, no commutator, two slip rings, two brushes. My friend will send a better picture next week. I post them here. John

A friend has a Metropolitan Vicker single phase motor electric motor with TWO (2) slip rings and carbon brushes.( Not a Repulsion type) NO connection as far as he can see to the stator. The motor name plate picture which I am unable post here, says

Cat No.6001 or could be an L. Type BAL 47 Form ABL. By the name plate the motor is very old, but might have a lot of life yet. I'm in North York's, he is in Worcester. Any ideas regarding connecting the motor directly to the mains or should it have a face plate type starter. I have never seen such a motor, three slip rings and six terminals on the stator yes, is he missing some thing ? Any relevant comment / ideas will be much appreciated John

Dave W should you ever get that ford POP back, I'll forward you details of how to over come those Vacuum operated wind screen wipers and to fix advance/ retard to the distributer as well. I had a 1934 Austin 7 with the same problems and with 3rd brush dynamo. I can't remember, details of the POP dynamo or charging arrangement, I should, as wife's brother had one. I remember we changed the cylinder head from another Ford engine which raised the compression ratio and it then was quite a flier. Side valve engine of course, how crude was the valve adjustment. John

Simon above, make the sacrificial ANODE the POSITIVE and the object to be de rusted Negative. I use diluted washing soda in a plastic bucket and wear some disposable gloves. You will be amazed how well it cleans things the first time you do it. Lots of scum and of course if you don't clean up the object further and protect it, it soon run again. John