Member postings for oldvelo

Hi Ray

As Les says an occasional check and clean out is all that is required.

In a home workshop they will not be run for an excessive amount of time in a year.

Eric

"Just wait till You get an Imperial thread with Metric head and need to replace the bolt or nut".

Yes One Example "Sulzer V90 Vacuum Pumps". Happily not to be found in the home workshop.

One Odd one out that "nowt else will fit" is 5/16 Whitworth.

Eric

Hi

Go with a synthetic oil for your compressor for the best performance and protection.

A bit more expensive than a straight mineral oil.

Stay clear of motor oils for as there is no benefit in using a multigrade detergent oil.

Eric

Hi Brian

Ball turning is a very pleasing job on a lathe real hands on work

Ignore the snobs not worth bothering with the inadequate sods who think that if you put someone down it will elevate their standing in life.

We share thoughts and ideas to attempt to help make life easier for all that want to learn more.

Motto "Attack the problem not the person".

The ball turners I use is a Boring head mounted on a sturdy bracket the bolts on the topslide with the toolpost removed.

Rambling off topic!!!!

Neil I see that you have an Amp Meter on the control box in the photo of your lathe an essential in my biased opinion for any machine tool.

Eric

Hi Ian

Did a quick look at

http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas/page9.html

I guess that you want to restore to the original specs.

Then ignore my ramblings below

What if the reversing gearbox was replaced with an extension on the lead screw and an extra gear fitted on the gear quadrant when the lead screw was needed in reverse.

Eric

Hi

One more mod to the X2 mill is to discard the coarse thread clamp bolt and
fabricate a new oversize clamp bolt that is a closer fit through the column and the front mounting bracket.

Make the threads @ 1 or 1.25 mm pitch fabricate a nut to suit.
Grease the threads and on the face of the nut with E P Grease or "Never Sieze"like compound
More grip for the same length of spanner with the same amount force.

The extra plate on the back of the column stiffens it up by heaps

As Neil points out the large cone-washer spreads the load to the sides of the column over a bigger area and not distorting the hollow column with the high load in the centre only.

With couple of brackets and jacking screws bolted to the column and bearing on a lug welded or bolted to the stiffener plate to fine adjust the tilt tramming becomes a breeze

Eric

Hi

Had a quick read through this subject and almost fell of my chair with Clive Farrar's comment

"Once I know the motor is still sound i will get the parts and try to fix the board.

Its worth spending a few quid to see if i can avoid a £350 alternative".

Is Dick Turpins progeny still alive and well in England.

A replacement controller is available Ex USA for $81.95 that will do the job.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electric-Motors/DC-Motors/Motor-Speed-Controllers/90-180-VDC-SPEED-CONTROL-W-POT-11-2269.axd

Set up to match the motor correctly this is an excellent alternative.

One of these is on my X2 mill and performs faultless at all times with a 1.25 hp motor.

Got rid of the noisy and fragile gear drive and fitted a "Poly Vee" Belt Drive.

Pics in my album

Eric

Hi James

Can I add a little more info on "Chatter"

"I seem to recall somewhere that using a counter shaft is more effective at reducing chatter than a direct drive, but am not sure whether this is the case"

Here is a link to a query I posted on another forum why my lathe with a 180 volt DC motor with speed control ran so much smoother than the original AC motor. May be of interest to you and others following this thread.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=17383

Thanks to Ken for the full explanation of why this is so.

Have you considered a DC drive and speed control. Personally I think they are Ideal for the home workshop machine tools.

Eric

Hi Ian

Read you reply to Ian S C it appears that the bearing had been "Loctited" before and was successful

You have to work quickly when setting preload on a bearing when using Loctite before it sets.

The bearing manufacturer can supply the information on how much torque-resistance is required.

or

A product I have used is "Ezi-Sleeve" to slide on to a shaft that has been damaged were an oil seal has run

Perhaps this may be of some use

Try an E-Mail to them @

[email protected] or their website

www.castleinternational.com.au

Eric

Hi Chris

They are easy enough to make a light weight nuts to support Guards etc

Used them to secure sheet metal guards on machinery.

You drill the 12 mm nut with a 12 mm slot drill on an angle so that there is only partial thread left on opposite sides of the nut .

Slide them on an angle to touch the guard and snug up firmly NO excess force as only a partial thread.

Rough drawing in my albums

Eric

Hi Robert

This is another solution

http://www.saeproducts.com/needle-nose-adapter-qcc-nns.html

a "Needle Nose" tip for your grease gun. Also available to replace the claw fitting on your gun they are usually

1/8 BSP thread

Eric

Hi to all

With apologies to Ian for jumping in

"Museum between Palmerston North and Wellington" is on Highway 57 at 744 Makerua Rd Tokomaru

website is at

http://www.tokomarusteam.com/

Had the pleasure of roaming round this wonderful collection and Colin allowed me to view his workshops that are Not open to the public alas.

Fascinating place for anyone interested in old machinery.

Eric

Hi Ian

"Neil all I see is a large white square."

I had the same problem just select the square and roll the mouse wheel toward you.

Hope this helps

Eric

Hi

On the band saw I rebuilt with two drive motors one for wood hp 1425 rpm driving a counter shaft and one for metal 3/4 hp 1425 rpm driving a 18 to 1 worm gearbox that drives the counter shaft with "Poly Vee" belts all round

Remove the belt from the worm gearbox for wood and swap motor plugs.

Motor RPM
1425
Saw Spindle Pulley Dia
168
Counter Shaft Pulley Dia
95
Worm G'Box
18 To 1
Band Wheel Dia mm
360

Metal Cutting

Motor 1 Dia mm G'Box Dia
53 90
63 80
70 70

Wood & Composites

Motor 2 Dia mm C\Shaft Dia
50 90
62 80
69 70

Metal

Metres Min
29.82
39.87
50.63

Wood

Metres Min
506.30
706.29
898.33

Sorry about the Layout Just cut and pasted from an XLS Spreadsheet Used to find optimum ratios and pulley sizes

May be useful

Still toying with using a 1.5 hp DC motor and KB Electronics Controller and two speed pulleys.

Though two speed may not be needed as KB quotes up to 50 to 1 speed control and up to 120% max motor speed.

And 0 to 30% min speed on trimpot adjustment of controller.

Not the cheapest option DC drives. Mine is a Totally Biased opinion as a "DC Drive" and "Poly Vee" belt transmission addict.

Eric

Edited By oldvelo on 30/09/2014 04:10:54

Hi All

As Neil points out that DC arcing can weld the contacts together.

That is NOT a problem IF you switch off the 230 volt AC line first then as Ziggar suggests allow the spindle to STOP.

Then flick the reverse switch, then switch on the 230 volt AC line the control will then ramp up to the set speed.

No point in destroying the electrics or yourself to save a dollar or a couple of seconds in time.

Be careful out there

Eric

Hi Robin

The "Heavy Duty" Electric Bike controller is probably capable of driving your 24 volt DC motor.

They rely on the bike moving for cooling son a fan would be necessary.

Be aware that 750 watts @ 24 volts DC = 32 AMPS current so the wiring will need to be adequate.

My workshop machine run on 180 volts DC from a 230 volt AC speed control converter.

This gives excellent constant speed control down to 5% of top speed.

VFD speed control is another excellent alternative lots of info @

http://www.powercapacitors.co.uk/products/transwave-converters/

E ric

Hi to quote and old mentor of mine "If a man can build a machine then men can dismantle it".

Reasonably easy to stip and clean an X2 mill be careful and lock the head at the top of it's travel.

with block of wood under the head casting to stop it crashing down.

The carefully remove the "Gubbins" by releasing the tension spring first.

Remember RTFMF and study the exploded parts diagram as to what goes where.

The head should be resting on the wood block

Remove the stop from the column and remove the clamp screw and the gib adjustment screws and the gib strip will fall out.

You can now lift the head up and off the column.

DO NOT seperate the the two castings that make up the spindle head.

Have fun with your new mill

Eric

Hi Tom

This starts alarm bells with me

"as the PO has cut and shut the whole set-up while attaching it to a huge frame of blue painted angle iron, I assume in an effort to get rid of any vibration"

A sturdy angle iron frame that has any distortion from welding will distort the cast iron frame on the mill and cause misalignment problem.

A quick check loosen the hold down bolts and check if there is clearance under the feet of the mill with a feeler guages.

Fabricate shims to that thickness and fit to the offending bolt do not tighten just yet.

Lock the all Gibs with the table in approximately the middle of the travel

Fit a Dial Test Indicator on an arm from the spindle and check the reading on the dial with the plunger on the outside end of the table and write it down.

Repeat on the other corners

Tighten the holding down bolts and recheck the four DTI readings

If all four are the same as the original readings you have it right first time.

If not them you will have to add shim where the DTI shows that the base has distorted.

You can Add a washer under the feet to make it a bit easier to shim true

Or use Short jacking screws and adjusting nuts Look at an example in my Photo Album.

Eric

Beautifully made piece of equipment

No all wrong it is device invented by a vet to blow pills down a horses throat .

Previously he used to put one end of rubber hose in the horses mouth and insert the pill in the other end and then blew in it

He got sick of the horses blowing first.

Eric