Member postings for Ramon Wilson

Here you go Bernard - these Graupner props from Leeds Model shop will be ideal and reasonably priced too.

**LINK**   The 7 and 8" dia are on the second page

LMS are very efficient on dispatch so can recommend them

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 22/07/2023 18:17:32

Hi Bernard - still here in Beccles

Clive's advice is sound - early runs on say a 8 x 4 and a 7 x 4 for general running will be fine. Keeping the pitch at 4" or below allows the engine to rev without being loaded. You could use a 6" pitch on bench running but that would usually be much better suited to flying situations. I very rarely (bench) run my engines on 6" pitch props for that reason

I have a FROG Talisman control liner with a Frog 150 in it. So nippy it's getting difficult to handle these days so it flies on a 7 x 4 prop to slow it down a bit

Getting small props may prove difficult - so much these days are aimed at electric motors but Leeds Model Shop might be a good start.

Just to get you in the mood here's a new model - it's an enlarged 30" span KK Ranger with an OS 20FP glo motor converted to diesel.

See you at Lowmex?

Best - Tug

Hi Kiwi (and Bernard)

Yes I've had a pair since around the mid eighties possibly a little earlier. As you say, the advert for them ran for years in ME - "You can do it if you can see it" etc.

Still use them on a daily basis mainly in plastic modelling, in fact wearing them only yesterday on a new project. They are still as original but the glass is not quite as clear as it used to be - I would be lost without them and would buy another pair tomorrow if I could.

Something I have done for a long time now is use SpecSavers. I always get the free second pair they usually offer with a shorter focal length (half the normal) in the bi focal lens and use as my second pair specifically for modelling. Couple these with the Versator and I can see some pretty small detail

Like so many of us though my eyes are noticeably deteriorating as the years press on

Best -Tug

Margaret

If you are setting out using a lathe an offhand bench grinder is more ore less mandatory unless you constantly want to buy ready made tooling.

Lot's to choose from but heres one from Axminster Tools as an example - it would not take the cost of many inserts to pay for one

A noisy geared Black and Decker 5" version was the first accessory I bought with my first lathe. It was soon replaced with a small, much less noisy, 'Slibette 5" that I still use virtually on a daily basis.

Enjoy your adventure with machining wherever it takes you - it's a great pastime

Bill, It's held in a Myford QC holder for boring tools - the type that has a vee groove machined in the lower face.

Margaret - Good luck with your task If you can learn how to use an off hand grinder to shape HSS then you will have a huge 'extra' to call on in future. Just bear in mind you won't necessarily get it right at first but keep trying and you will. Also bear in mind it's only the very tip of the tool doing the cutting that has to be right - what's to the side and behind it is just support

Best - Tug

It took a while to find -

The flutes on a slot drill are ground back to leave just one tip and that is then used as a short boring tool.

(The reason this is cutting backwards is that the part being turned is screwed onto the rear part with the inlet tube)

Old slot drills and three flute end mills make ideal 'home made' cutters if you are up for using an off hand grinder

Hope that helps - Tug

Though I often use a cutter to open a hole as you suggest this would be a much better way to achieve what you intend. There is no guarantee that an endmill or slot drill for that matter would give you the exact size you seek - you will only know after you have machined the hole - using a boring bar (if used carefully) will.

A small boring bar can be made from a worn slot drill - I have an image somewhere so will try to find it for you.

Tug

Yes, there's nothing wrong with making them from solid just that it requires more material and a lot more machining. A mistake somewhere along the way means a likely restart and obviously more material. The further you get into the machining the more there is to lose. The Corliss con rod came out of one piece as did the marine engine rods.

The double diagonal rods were different to each other and much shorter that average but fish bellied and took quite some machining

It was a big step back when I realised this one was a scrapper though

As always Doc it's down to choice - good luck with them however you go about it

Hi Doc, I'm sure Jason will provide you with a good method to follow but for what it's worth I described making fish bellied rods on HMEM when making them for the Waller engine.

As you can see they are composite which makes for much easier machining - you can find the details here post #16 onwards (The description of making them is further on at the start of the second page of the thread)

Here's an image of the pair I made for my twin Vic using the same method. These ran at many shows over many years without showing any signs of their composite make up. The big end 'blade' was an integral part of the shaft.

Good to see you making progress - none at this end I'm afraid

Best - R

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 11/07/2023 07:45:23

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 11/07/2023 07:57:28

Thank you all for your kind thoughts and encouragement guys but it is as Rod alludes to.

I am not giving up (as in giving in!) but merely recognising at this point in my life I want to move on to something different. Disposing of my mill and revamping the workshop is part of that plan.

If you count Meccano I've been making models throughout my life since I was just on four years old - I have no intention of stopping now, just a different type of modelling that does not require certain 'kit' but does require some space which is something seriously lacking at the moment. The Amadeal mill takes a fair bit of it.

There's a lot of kit there for the money but I'm open to offers

Once again my thanks for your encouragement but please be assured I'm not out yet

Best - Tug

Hi Guys, some of you may recall that as i approach my eighties I have alluded on occasion to disposing of my workshop.

After a lot of thought however, whilst I am certain that there will be no more model engineering projects after the Marine Engine, I have decided to keep the lathe and my trusty old Linley mill a while longer. I intend to revamp the workshop into a smaller area and utilise the space gained for other matters and will, instead, concentrate on my other passion, that of plastic modelling.

This means there is a little used mill to dispose of. It's an Amadeal WMD30 LV and has seen little use since I bought it for my seventieth birthday (a bit of self indulgence I guess) It's extremely unlikely it will be used again and takes a fair degree of space that could be utilised for something else so its time to part with it.

Along with various tooling most unused it comes with a 5" vise with swivel base, a 4" tilting vise, an 8" rotary table (still as yet to be used) tilting angle plate, boring head, co-axial indicator and a fair number of used but serviceable cutters. The mill has a multi function digital readout and the table has been fitted with a Warco supplied table power feed unit.

I will put this in the for sale ads but as only one image can be used I have uploaded a fair number of images to my album headed Items for Sale so if anyone is interested in the package as a whole please take a look and contact me accordingly.

I should add perhaps that it is very much buyer collect and that at this stage I do not want to sell any item separately - please note the latter!

It's in good condition, never been abused or pushed and definitely no rust! The only real work its seen has been on the Corliss and marine engine builds.

Take a look and see if it's for you.

Best - Tug

PS I hope this is okay in this section Neil couldn't think where else to put it

Doc,

I have today cleaned (as in dusted!) and photographed my Amadeal WMD 30RV mill with the intention of putting it up for sale. This will be in a day or so on here.

It's as new, in good order and has seen little use. It comes kitted out with lots of tooling, 5" vise, 4" tilting vise, 8" R/T (unused) plus loads of cutters etc etc

It does not exhibit any of the tendencies you describe with yours.

If you are mulling over possible upgrading then it may be worth considering.

Tug

That's the first time I've watched a Joe Pie video.

Well, I've always said there's more than one way to skin a cat but that's excessive approach in the extreme for what relatively easy components to machine

What ever happened to the simple faceplate angle plate set up for such a job - much less time consuming and no redundant fixture left at the end!

I'm also surprised at creating a datum face from the as cast flat surfaces by milling the edges first then using those to mill the flat faces ??

Whatever, each to his own and the end result is good, but certainly rather long winded for me.

Hello 'Rooos'

I worked Bridgeports for several years and had two factory fresh ones at one place where I was machine shop supervisor. I don't recall ever seeing a manual! That's not to say there wasn't such but I certainly can't remember one.

Using one is much like any mill - you just need to acquire the skill and that takes time but the one thing to ensure is that the head is perfectly trammed in both x and y directions at all times other wise any positional work using the quill will be affected - do not just rely on the alignment peg to square things up

The other is to keep in mind is that it's a light mill on the scheme of things and not really up to big heavy cuts or feeds. Apart from that a Bridgeport is a brilliant, extremely versatile, machine tool in my mind.

Good luck with your journey - you have many happy hours ahead of you

Best - Tug

Hello Bert,

I'm afraid to say that no, it's still as my last posting update. I did finish my plastic project and have begun the slow process of downsizing my workshop.

It is my firm intention to finish this engine however and hopefully later this year but it will be my last I think. The desire to continue machining in my old age is very low. That's not to say I will stagnate - I've far too much on my plate for that to happen.

Thanks for asking - I will be back about this project but I don't think it will be until late in the year.

Kind Regards - Tug

I have placed three ads in the 'For Sale' section. I have received two emails via the website and have responded to both of them through '[email protected]'

The first appears to have gone through the second came straight back saying it did not recognise the email address!!

So, if you read this Mathew and Allan, I have replied - best to send me a PM then we can deal with it further

Tug

PS both items reserved until I hear from you

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 05/05/2023 14:25:38

Just to confirm Diane - I made mine from original Helix Engineering castings and drawings. I gave the drawings, which incidentally were the very best 'model engineering' drawings I've used, to Jo Thoms. Maybe she still has them?

I believe at the time, the father and son team (the name escapes me but it may have been Buckley) who produced them under the Helix name were active members of the Bolton museum.

Hope that helps some - Ramon

Hi Geoff,

Like any drawings - including my own - and despite best efforts on the part of the draughtsman mistakes can, do and will happen.

Ron's drawings were usually pretty good overall though as said you may find the odd anomaly here and there.

There's been many Boll Aero's made overtime - I don't recall hearing of anything that will prevent you making a good example - good luck with it

Tug

Jason makes good points about the space available particularly the head room, and certainly something to be considered from a working point of view

The mill I have for sale is little used and comes fully tooled and equipped with accessories including many cutters.

I will try to find time this week to take images and finally get it up for sale

Tug

Current equivalent is VM32LV - R8 taper.